Author Topic: 78 550K Clutch pops pretty hard into first gear (Read 5038 times)

IAmCitizenMe · « **on:** June 10, 2009, 09:45:48 PM »

My 550 is running fantastic. But when I shift down into first, it pops much louder and harder than into any other gear. And if I shift into neutral, it is difficult to shift out of it. Is it bad for my tranny to shift into first if I am going too fast? This is my first and only motorcycle so I have nothing to compare it to. Is my clutch not fully disengaged? The mark on the clutch lines up with the mark on the engine block when I pull the arm, but maybe something else is happening. Any ideas? Did I describe this well enough? haha

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:01:19 PM »

Going too fast is anything more than 10 feet from the stop sign before engaging 1st gear, never above 3 miles-an-hour...it's a good practice to always shift to N at a red light and release the clutch lever...in fact work your riding to minimise the time spent with the bike in gear and the clutch lever pulled at a stop sign/light IMO......remember your bike is 30 years old too...

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #2 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:07:12 PM »

OK, that's what i figured it was. That or something like it. I tried, when I first got the bike, to put it in N at red lights, but while it's running it's hard to do it. I've heard of other people with the same issue, so I usually leave it in first and hold the clutch. Thanks for the tip!

TwoTired · « **Reply #3 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:13:11 PM »

Sound like your clutch is dragging. Adjustment issues, warped plates, oil integrity, etc. Banging into gears is bad for the trans. And, a 550 should not do this. If you want best longevity, attend to the clutch.

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #4 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:17:30 PM »

I guess I should specify that it "POPs" when I'm going fast and approaching a stop and I shift down into first. If I am nearly to a stop and I shift all the way down, it clicks just fine. So I assumed that was what I was supposed to do but I wasn't sure. If I have warped plates, is there a way to fix them?

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #5 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:23:21 PM »

I'm sure your clutch is fine...more practice will show that you can shift much more smooth and that you can find N everytime just before you come to a stop...thanks for asking your Q's tho'...

TwoTired · « **Reply #6 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:33:23 PM »

With the bike stopped, in neutral, and the clutch pulled in. It should simply snick into first (or second) with no lurching and/or jump from the motorcycle. You can live with a minimally dragging clutch if you just keep some motion in the rear wheel while making gear changes. But, if there is a loud noise from trans by simply putting it into gear, the shock is shearing the clutch plate engagement, instead of all the engagement pressure being totally relieved by the clutch actuation. Warped plates (steels) are usually replaced. Sometimes they can be ground flat. But, that process also can thin them beyond wear limits.

You should always be using the clutch whenever you change gears, and most particularly when down shifting. If the clutch is dragging, downshifts will certainly be clunky. You risk bending shift forks and other trans parts.

Frankenkit · « **Reply #7 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:47:11 PM »

This almost sounds like mine- if I'm going, say, 60 mph, and downshift to stop at a light, clutch lever all the way in (and feeling disengaged, the motor spins freely) it'll go click, click, kachnk, kachunk, Clunk. (the last three gears being notably louder than the first two down) might be because I'm still going a little too fast for those gears?

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #8 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:50:16 PM »

Yes! Exactly. From what these gentlemen tell me, it is because we are going too fast when we downshift. So I am fairly sure there is no problem there. Ahhh... One less thing to worry about... like dying.

Frankenkit · « **Reply #9 on:** June 10, 2009, 10:53:26 PM »

well, that's what spanner says. Lloyd says we have adjustment issues.

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #10 on:** June 10, 2009, 11:03:44 PM »

I think we all have "adjustment issues"

TwoTired · « **Reply #11 on:** June 10, 2009, 11:25:50 PM »

The 750 is most definitely a clunkier trans while shifting. I have no direct experience with the 650. On the 550, if you downshift to first at 90mph, you are making the gears/shafts nearest the crank spin to 20K -ish. This is stupid, IMO. And, if the trans doesn't explode, I suppose a clunk is the least you can expect.

Down shifting to lower gears while moving make the gears spin faster. An abrupt speed change of the gears can certainly cause a clunk sound, and places stress on the trans components.

"And if I shift into neutral, it is difficult to shift out of it."
This is a clutch issue. If it does this while the bike is stopped.

But, there are people who only listen to what they want to hear. It's OK, you can still get a 550 engine assembly pretty cheap if you are patient.

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #12 on:** June 10, 2009, 11:29:58 PM »

That makes sense. I guess I should just be a little more careful. I'm taking it in to a shop that specializes in old bikes this week so hopefully they will be able to tell me for sure. Thanks for your advice. I'd be screwed if it wasn't for this forum.

Frankenkit · « **Reply #13 on:** June 11, 2009, 03:50:44 AM »

I think with a lot of us learning to ride in an era with automatic this and new technology that, we don't start riding these bikes with a knowledge of how we're 'supposed' to be up/down shifting these bikes and maybe abuse them more than is necessary.

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #14 on:** June 11, 2009, 11:25:09 AM »

I completely agree. And not only with motorcycles. We're spoiled with technology we forget how things work.

brianzenk · « **Reply #15 on:** June 11, 2009, 12:12:19 PM »

There is a clutch adjuster locking nut that could be checked and adjusted.
If possible find the owners manual there is a PDF that shows the procedure.
There are three adjustment points to mess with to get everything working in concert.
I used a wire tie and pulled the clutch (depends on the route) cable away from the carb lifters.
When I pulled back on the clutch cable the carb lifter was hitting the cable causing
conflict. The clutch adjustments take time to get right but after they are set its well worth the work.
I like the older technology because its more interesting and fun to learn on and maintain.

IHWillys · « **Reply #16 on:** June 11, 2009, 03:24:34 PM »

Quote from: IAmCitizenMe on June 10, 2009, 10:07:12 PM

...I tried, when I first got the bike, to put it in N at red lights, but while it's running it's hard to do it. ...

Aside from attending to the clutch system condition, finding N while still rolling is generally easier. I've had several Yamahas that were very difficult to find neutral while running and stopped but easily done if done so right before stopping. It's a habit I have now. I think safety courses frown on such practices though.

Ken

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #17 on:** June 11, 2009, 03:29:16 PM »

Pfph. Safety courses. What do THEY know...

Frankenkit · « **Reply #18 on:** June 11, 2009, 06:50:07 PM »

I actually always stay in first at lights because around here I'm never sure if that soccer mom barreling up behind me is going to *stop*. Sure it's a little rough on my clutch hand, but wth, I have strong hands and a new clutch cable, so it's all smooth anyway.

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #19 on:** June 11, 2009, 07:05:37 PM »

I always get nervous when I see her in my mirror, in an H3, flying up me on her cell phone. I always notice after she stops that I'm white-knuckling my grips ready to tear off.

Speaking of... A friend of mine rides a CBR600 and he tells me that at night, he rides in a lower gear so the traffic around him hears him. Does anyone else do this? I just started doing it and I suppose it is working because I always see pissed off teenagers rolling up their windows so they can continue their phone conversations.

Frankenkit · « **Reply #20 on:** June 11, 2009, 07:45:09 PM »

I can't see riding in a lower gear because people hear me, but I try to stay right within my optimal power band so if I ever need a quick zip of throttle to get out of something, the power's right there.

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #21 on:** June 11, 2009, 08:45:18 PM »

If I read Kit's post correctly, it seems like some folks simply pull the clutch at whatever speed and 'freewheel' their bikes while braking and clunking down from 5th to 1st in one clutch pulled event...!! I would never ride like that unless a complete emergency stop was called for , normal practice is to change-down and release the clutch in each gear to enjoy the engine braking and minimise the time without the drive-train connected to the motor...or am I just 'old school' ?

TwoTired · « **Reply #22 on:** June 11, 2009, 09:02:45 PM »

Quote from: Spanner 1 on June 11, 2009, 08:45:18 PM

...normal practice is to change-down and release the clutch in each gear to enjoy the engine braking and minimise the time without the drive-train connected to the motor...or am I just 'old school' ?

That's the way I do it, too. Maybe, I'm old school, as well?

To paraphrase...
There are old bikers and there are bold bikers, but, there are no old, bold bikers.
(I heard about pilots instead of bikers, but what the hey.)

Frankenkit · « **Reply #23 on:** June 12, 2009, 08:43:46 AM »

George Finlay! test pilot, he said that. See, this is what I mean about the 'generally accepted way things are done' that we seem to miss out on. I can say for sure no one has ever told me to downshift that way. Good to know.

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #24 on:** June 12, 2009, 11:41:56 AM »

I went for a ride in the middle of the night last night when the roads are deserted and I was shifting down like that. Seemed muuuuch smoother. Good thing to know.

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Author Topic: 78 550K Clutch pops pretty hard into first gear (Read 5038 times)