Topic: Removing and reinstalling VIN plate

[Holubs]

My powder coating shop suggested that I remove the VIN plate on my frame before they sand blast and powder coat it.  I assume that the plate was installed with blind rivets. 

Who has removed their VIN plate for painting and reinstalled it afterward?  I assume the process is:

1. drill out old rivets
2. remove plate
3. get frame powder coated
4. reinstall VIN plate with new blind rivets (pop rivets as a second option)

Seems simple enough, if my process is correct.  Where can a person find replacement rivets for the VIN plate?  What size was used originally?

Thanks,
Holubs

[Alan F.]

The plate is also held on with some sort of adhesive, you may have a hard time getting it off in nice shape.
I'd say just have them mask it off with some tape that will survive the heat.

The correct rivets are available, if you run a search for the terms vin plate rivets, you'll find a few members here who have bought the minimum quantity from a vendor and have about 98 rivets to spare, a few have offered to mail them out for low cost.
good luck.
-Alan

[MCRider]

The plate is also held on with some sort of adhesive, you may have a hard time getting it off in nice shape.
I'd say just have them mask it off with some tape that will survive the heat.

The correct rivets are available, if you run a search for the terms vin plate rivets, you'll find a few members here who have bought the minimum quantity from a vendor and have about 98 rivets to spare, a few have offered to mail them out for low cost.
good luck.
-Alan

Alan is correct. There is adhesive and its tough to get off cleanly. However,my powdercoater also asked for it to be removed. The oven heat wil cause it to warp and bend, it is very thin metal, or at least the risk is there. Ruin the PC job if it happened.

Mine will need some TLC but i think it will look fine once reinstalled. Some Goof-Off style adhesive remover. Something to restore the curve like a bread roller or tube.

+1 on the rivets, a member mailed me 4 from his personal excess stash.

He responded to a request i had put in "parts wanted classified".

[markb]

Check out this thread for info on the pins:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=30904.0

Even with masking the powder coating will ruin the plate.  The plates are glued on in addition to the pins but with care they can be removed.  I used a razor blade to get under the plate and cut it away from the adhesive.  Then used the frame to straighten it.  It's very soft.

Mark

[Holubs]

Thanks for the link, I did a search for "VIN plate rivets" earlier and didn't see that thread.

Thank you for the info about the adhesive under the VIN plate.  That must be what the powder coat place was talking about when they said that something might "boil out" from under the plate and damage the paint around the VIN plate.

Holubs

[MCRider]

Thanks for the link, I did a search for "VIN plate rivets" earlier and didn't see that thread.

Thank you for the info about the adhesive under the VIN plate.  That must be what the powder coat place was talking about when they said that something might "boil out" from under the plate and damage the paint around the VIN plate.

Holubs

On a lot of this stuff I think they are speaking from experience. Probably boiled one for a customer and had to do it over.

[Holubs]

This place sand blasted and powder coated a rusty old trailer for me last month, turned out nice.

I was surprised that they removed the rims/tires, but didn't remove the hubs when they baked the paint.  The oven boiled the grease out of the hubs and it ran out of the seals and onto their oven floor.  I planned to replace the seals and bearings anyway, so it wasn't a big deal.  The melted grease running out of the hub didn't bother the paint.  I just wiped the grease remnants off the hubs and springs when I got the trailer back.

[Johnie]

Most difficult part is getting the plate off without bending it.  I used 3M Trim Adhesive then those U rivets from Mark that you tap in.  Turned out perfect...thanks to Mark.

[MCRider]

Most difficult part is getting the plate off without bending it.  I used 3M Trim Adhesive then those U rivets from Mark that you tap in.  Turned out perfect...thanks to Mark.

I have the same rivets, what did you tap them in with? His reference was to use a punch with a concave point. Was that necessary. I'm being picky here, probably.

[markb]

I just tapped mine in with a plastic-headed mallet.  The punch was used to mark the center of the head so that the heads could be drilled off accurately.

[razor02097]

PB blaster is great at dissolving glue.  Don't know if it would harm the plate, I would guess not though.

[MCRider]

I just tapped mine in with a plastic-headed mallet.  The punch was used to mark the center of the head so that the heads could be drilled off accurately.

Thanks, I can handle that!

[MCRider]

PB blaster is great at dissolving glue.  Don't know if it would harm the plate, I would guess not though.

Never knew that, and I've got PB Blaster. Shouldn't harm the plate.

[HB-1fan]

Hey Holubs,
 I just shaved the glue back with a razor blade. Went down to Ace hardware store and bought some brass coated twisted nails. Cleaned the brass off with scotchbrite pad and trimmed the length. Pre-curved the plate, added some glue, and tapped them in. It looks like factory!!

Rick

[Holubs]

Interesting, hadn't thought of Ace!  May be worth a try, thanks for the tip.