Author Topic: Removal of mesh oil screen on oil pump? (Read 6023 times)

ron.cieri.313 · « **on:** June 29, 2009, 04:55:35 PM »

Hi everyone...ron and his CB750 K...do I have to remove the oil pump to the mesh oil screen covering the scavenge side of the pump or does it pop out some how?

I've scrubed with seafoam and a wire brush from the underside, looks pretty clean, don't know if I should remove the pump to ensure a thorough cleaning before moving on.

...thanks.

Hush · « **Reply #1 on:** June 29, 2009, 05:17:59 PM »

Not sure on the 750 Ron but on my 650 it's only held on by 2 rubber type bands and you just pull (wiggle) it down and off, when the rubber things get worn you replace them.
My screen looked like someone had used varnish to seal it when I took it off first time, why the bike didn't sieze I don't know, the PO had some pretty slack maintainence practices.
The sump also stopped leaking once the screen was cleaned so I'm guessing it was pressurising the sump being blocked.

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 29, 2009, 05:40:39 PM »

Hi Hush...it looks like its maybe on o-ring or a rubber ring as you describe...I'm just afraid to tug on it too hard without knowing.

The "varnish" description fits what I'm seeing when i scrub it from the underside so its sound like I better follow through on this. I've had tranny problems although I'm no longer convinced this is source but might as well clean now that I got the pan off...which was a #$%* cuz of the custom exhaust po installed.

MCRider · « **Reply #3 on:** June 29, 2009, 05:50:29 PM »

I've removed one in my project thread. It is very difficult. The entire black ring has a notch that fits into the aluminum housing. I used a hairdryer to get it soft and warm, then a pair of jewelers screwdrivers to pry it out. To get the notch of the Oring out of the groove, you'll have to bend it a little no matter how careful you are.

I was able to then bend the bent part back and pop the whole thing back in. My suggestion is don't do it unless you have to to remove some embedded debris.

Scrub it from the outside with solvent, use a shop vac on it for debris.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 29, 2009, 07:37:55 PM »

Quote from: MCRider on June 29, 2009, 05:50:29 PM

I've removed one in my project thread. It is very difficult. The entire black ring has a notch that fits into the aluminum housing. I used a hairdryer to get it soft and warm, then a pair of jewelers screwdrivers to pry it out.

I've done it without heating, but heating would probably make things easier. We'll find out when I tear into my newly acquired pile of pumps in my quest for a set of unscored rotors

Quote from: MCRider on June 29, 2009, 05:50:29 PM

you'll have to bend it a little no matter how careful you are.

Yup.

Quote from: MCRider on June 29, 2009, 05:50:29 PM

I was able to then bend the bent part back and pop the whole thing back in. My suggestion is don't do it unless you have to to remove some embedded debris.

Scrub it from the outside with solvent, use a shop vac on it for debris.

Agreed. In fact I do not think you have to separate the pump body from the valve body at all, as you can strip everything else off and clean without separating them. If you do end up taking them apart, Yamiya has the little paper gasket that goes between them.

MRieck · « **Reply #5 on:** June 29, 2009, 08:12:01 PM »

Quote from: MCRider on June 29, 2009, 05:50:29 PM

I've removed one in my project thread. It is very difficult. The entire black ring has a notch that fits into the aluminum housing. I used a hairdryer to get it soft and warm, then a pair of jewelers screwdrivers to pry it out. To get the notch of the Oring out of the groove, you'll have to bend it a little no matter how careful you are.

I was able to then bend the bent part back and pop the whole thing back in. My suggestion is don't do it unless you have to to remove some embedded debris.

Scrub it from the outside with solvent, use a shop vac on it for debris.

Yes.

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 29, 2009, 08:25:50 PM »

Thanks all...per all ur posts I've decide to prop up a narrow plastic container filled with seafoam up against the mesh screen using my jack as best i can without removing...will scrub again and then vacuum.

...the oil pan gasket looks in decent shape so I plan on re-using...I've created new ones with gasket material but the results vary...any thoughts?...thanks...ron.

Hush · « **Reply #7 on:** June 30, 2009, 02:46:18 AM »

I used nothing but gasket maker on my sump as getting a sump gasket for a 79 here in Kiwiland would be impossible.
Hasn't leaked a drop since I bolted it all up, not a drop....and that was the main reason the PO removed the engine and left it lying around his shed for a few years...duh!

HondaMan · « **Reply #8 on:** June 30, 2009, 06:09:34 AM »

Quote from: mystic_1 on June 29, 2009, 07:37:55 PM

I've done it without heating, but heating would probably make things easier. We'll find out when I tear into my newly acquired pile of pumps in my quest for a set of unscored rotors

Hey, Mystic:
I'm making a jig to hold the bodies, for dusting off tenths to reduce the clearances. Next I'm going to make one to dust off the side of the rotors accordingly, to remove the scores. The end gaol is to provide us with "rebuilt" oil pumps.

If you have any that you're going to toss aside, I may be interested in them.

I recently installed an 8000 mile pump in my 130k mile 750K2. The difference was impressive, including all the new oil leaks that sprang up in the top of the engine!

$:-\$

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 30, 2009, 06:22:46 AM »

Hi Hondaman...so a rebuilt oil pump can increase pressure...i.e., lubrication...through out the oil circulation system, maybe even, onto my transmission discs or gears which may be sticking?

Off-topic...
Hush...I didn't see you are in New Zealand...do u run into any hobbits while riding?!...j/k...seriously, it must be beautiful riding there.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 30, 2009, 08:32:24 AM »

Quote from: HondaMan on June 30, 2009, 06:09:34 AM

Quote from: mystic_1 on June 29, 2009, 07:37:55 PM

I've done it without heating, but heating would probably make things easier. We'll find out when I tear into my newly acquired pile of pumps in my quest for a set of unscored rotors

Hey, Mystic:
I'm making a jig to hold the bodies, for dusting off tenths to reduce the clearances. Next I'm going to make one to dust off the side of the rotors accordingly, to remove the scores. The end gaol is to provide us with "rebuilt" oil pumps.

If you have any that you're going to toss aside, I may be interested in them.

I recently installed an 8000 mile pump in my 130k mile 750K2. The difference was impressive, including all the new oil leaks that sprang up in the top of the engine! $:-\$

I'll keep you in mind for sure.

mystic_1

Hush · « **Reply #11 on:** July 01, 2009, 01:28:42 AM »

Hi Ron, yep it's pretty damn beautiful riding in NZ, uncrowded roads, beautiful scenery, plenty of twisty bits and hills.....roll on Spring.
Hobbitts? I think I married one!

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 01, 2009, 06:31:45 AM »

...omg, you made lol at work...2 funny...well, u must be well fed if you married a hobbit...elfs queens are way hotter though, but have to be much higher maintenance

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 01, 2009, 08:48:11 AM »

Hi...does anyone know if I need a special tool to take apart the clutch and look and the friction and metal disks?...thx...ron.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #14 on:** July 01, 2009, 09:18:48 AM »

No 'special' tools needed for that, per-se, just the usual assortment of sockets and screwdrivers. There's a special tool for pulling out the clutch outer basket but you won't need to do that to inspect the discs.

Tip: read this to avoid a common re-assembly mistake: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=48103.msg506312#msg506312

mystic_1

754 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 01, 2009, 09:30:36 AM »

Actually there is a special tool for clutch hub nut on 750s, reasonable to buy, some use hammer and punch, but it hard on the parts.

I got an idea for a puller tool, for the filter screen, will take a hard look at it in the next day or ywo, and try to make a prototype..

mystic_1 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 01, 2009, 09:36:56 AM »

Quote from: 754 on July 01, 2009, 09:30:36 AM

Actually there is a special tool for clutch hub nut on 750s, reasonable to buy, some use hammer and punch, but it hard on the parts.

I got an idea for a puller tool, for the filter screen, will take a hard look at it in the next day or ywo, and try to make a prototype..

Dang, you're right of course, that 4-prong retaining ring holds in the clutch center, doesn't it, not the outer basket.

Cyclex sells them for about $15 on their Engine Parts page, about half way down.

mystic_1

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #17 on:** July 01, 2009, 10:47:29 AM »

Hi Mystic...do i need it if i going to replace them?...I thinking of order a set of friction and maybe the metal ones too...thx...ron.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #18 on:** July 01, 2009, 01:16:26 PM »

Yes you'll need this tool, or you'll need to come up with some other way of removing the clutch locknut, in order to access the plates. I was incorrect originally, 754 has it right.

The special tool is for the lock nut #13 in this diagram:

Do you have a workshop manual and a parts book? The diagrams in the parts book are invaluable. Get them here:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=17788.0

mystic_1

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 01, 2009, 01:27:18 PM »

Thanks!...I've been looking for that oil lubrication diagram everywhere

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Author Topic: Removal of mesh oil screen on oil pump? (Read 6023 times)