Float height is 21.0mm.
I know it will be hard to set each float with a bank set of carbs. But If you could do this one float at a time, picture how easy this is to set your float without using a special float tool, or other measuring tools.
Some of you will see a fuel stain mark on your float. This is usually where the float sits above air, and below in fuel. If you set the float's "stain line" level, it is even with the carb body. Notice that the line is pretty much level with the top of the carb's main body. This is where you want to hold the float as you adjust. If there is no ''stain line'', then basically, you want to visually set the float parallel with the bottom of the carb's main body line. This main body line is where the float bowl meets the carb body.
Hold the float in a level position = parallel with the body line of the carb. Turn the fuel valve on. If no fuel leaks out of the needle and seat, consider the float level pretty much set to specs.
For diagnostic testing: If you push up on the float, and fuel is still leaking, then you either have debris in between the needle and seat, or the needle and/or seat is damaged. Remove the pin and inspect needle. Turn the fuel on, and purge the seat. Reinstall needle, float and pin, then test again. If you have a needle that has a spring assist tip, make sure this is free floating, and not sticking.
Say you need an adjustment, because if you move the float just a tad up from center, the fuel stops. You then need to move the needle ''Tang'' up. Move this tang ever so slightly up. This will move the needle up against the seat, and shut the fuel off. Adjust very minuet amounts. It won't take much bending of the tang, to stop the flow either way.
On the other hand, the float is level, and no fuel is flowing. How do you know the float is level this way? Drop the float from center, and determine how much is needed to lower the tang. Lower the tang, then set the float level with the carb body line again. The fuel should stop flowing.
It should take no more than the stack of say, 2 or 3 business cards thick, to shut the fuel off, or cause the fuel to flow from the centerline of the float when dropped.
Float inspection: There are a few concerns here about float integrity. One will be, how level each float is with the pin's shaft? Lay the float on a flat surface. Note that the pin's shaft is sitting flat on the surface, and that no float is higher/or/lower than the other. Turn the float over and note position of the two floats and the pin shaft again.
If they are bent, then one float will shut off the fuel too soon. Where as a float in the other direction, will cause fuel to overflow.
Second will be if the float is damaged by compression or leak? Hold the float next to your good ear, and listen for tail tell liquid inside the float(s). Replace as needed. Soldering a hole in a brass float will work. Remember what you are dealing with inside the float when working with heat!! Never blow compressed air into the fuel line to clean. The brass floats will compress, as no air can escape fast enough with the float bowls in place!!
