Topic: modern electronics?

[Peters1983]

I have been toying around with the idea on putting some modern parts on my bike. So far it is an electrical mess(i will be rewiring it soon). since I am, I want to incorporate a few things from this site http://www.electrosport.com.

Are there any wiring gurus that can enlighten me on any problems I might run into and how I can figure out a way around them? so far I want to use one of their speedometers, they have speed sensors that I think will work and it looks like they have most of the connectors. I will be researching parts from other bikes for the rest of the peices.

I am also looking at a boyer bransden ignition(does anyone have any feedback on them?).

[mlinder]

Well, can't really tell from that link just what you are thinking of installing.
Can you be a bit more specific? Someone like TT will be able to help you if we all know more of what you are thinking of doing.

[cb750fbomb]

I like these:
http://www.electrosport.com/products/product-detail-1719.php

[Bodi]

Those are just LED signal lights. You will need a different flasher, but electrex has that as well. You will lose the front marker function unless you add a few diodes to isolate the turn and marker feeds to the lights, no big deal.
What model/year is the bike?

[Peters1983]

I was thinking about one of the digital spedo boxes with a Kawasaki speed sensor or something similar. I will have to figure out how to run the oil pressure sensor and tach.

I was wondering if our charging system has enough power to run something like that while holding the memory and ignition(boyer/brandsen) or if I need to beef the stator up. I know I need a new rectifier/regulator which I am replacing with a newer style.

[KB02]

When I first saw this post I thought that someone had dug up my old post:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=28370.0

Some good reading in there.

[stresssolutions]

Consider using parts from Oregon Motorcycle Parts, he will help you, knows all about these bikes.

[Alan F.]

When I first saw this post I thought that someone had dug up my old post:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=28370.0

Some good reading in there.

That was my thought too, I'm gearing up for the home built rect, and the vr730 reg, with relays for everything and blade fuses everywhere. any tips KB?

[cb750fbomb]

Those are just LED signal lights. You will need a different flasher, but electrex has that as well. You will lose the front marker function unless you add a few diodes to isolate the turn and marker feeds to the lights, no big deal.
What model/year is the bike?

77 CB750F2. It's in my signature so I don't forget to post it in a question 

Peters1983, you should get one of ev0lution7's fuse boxes. It's plug and play, it works great and it's an upgrade to be had from a forum member. I'd rather buy something from someone here myself to keep the money "in the family". But that's just me.

[Peters1983]

that fuse box is exactly what I have been looking for, I will be researching your posts ev0lution7. You have a lot of good info on your site as well.plus cant wait for more info on the harness your working on

does anyone have any info on the boyer/bransden ignition?

thanks for all of your help guys, this site and its members are awesome.

[ev0lution7]

here is what i would do....

1. leave the stock ignition alone... and get a hondman ignition
2. if you want a little more proformance... go with a Cycle X POWER ARC!

those are the things i would do!

i happen to like the stock ignition it does its job well and if you want to add a little punch then hondaman's is the best!

if you really want to blow your socks off! then get the Power ARC from Ken over at CycleX its just about as much as a dyna/ coils/ wires .... but WAY better and very reliable!

as far as the fuse boxes go i seem to like em!

they work good and give you a ATC fuse instead of those aweful glass tube fuses!

[Alan F.]

alan F

i've actualy been working on a Cb750 harness that would do that .... my bike is pretty modern as far as electrical goes... check out my website, and my other posts in the tips and tricks section! i think somewere if you do a search you can find were i outlined howto make a killer setup! or you can PM me for more details!

Thanks EVO, I think I've got a handle on it but I'll have a look anyway.

[Pinhead]

Save yourself a ton of money and read the linked topic in my sig.

[Alan F.]

Save yourself a ton of money and read the linked topic in my Sig.

Oh I've got that thread printed out and bound for easy reference PH, are all of your edits in place and correct?  That's the only question I'd ask you.
And thanks for placing links to that thread in so many other threads so I can find it easily, downright neighborly of you.
-A

[Pinhead]

Yep, everything is up to date.

[ev0lution7]

dont forget when using relay's... and our old switches... they might not like voltage spikes from a relay! dont forget to use DIODES!

if you dont understand what i just said then use

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp


that guy rocks it does take some understanding of electrical theory to understand but if you thumb though it then your all right!

[Alan F.]

Diodes...oh I think I see, but will the kick from a collapsing magnetic field from a 12v relay coil really be that large?

Cheap insurance either way, good idea.  I'll be using modern switchgear from a 98 VFR, I got a great deal and the lack of a choke control at the left handlebar (fuel injected VFR) will work well with my 750K3's choke arm down on the carbs.
-A

[ev0lution7]

Diodes...oh I think I see, but will the kick from a collapsing magnetic field from a 12v relay coil really be that large?

well your ignition "coils" are 12v and look at the voltage they produce!

you can get upto 200V on the PRIMARY side of the coils sometimes more on a 3Ohm or a 1.5Ohm coil

so yes you can get alot of voltage! thats the one down side to relays that use resistors instead of diodes the best thing to do is use a simple "bosch" relay and install a diode in accross the switched leads!

its called "kick back" is the term they use for ignition coils BTW!

[Alan F.]

Yep, everything is up to date.

Thanks DUDE!
Oh across the switched leads, I thought the link you posted shows the diode across the relay coil. Agreed that the ignition coils will produce quite an inductive kick back, I was referring to the relay coil as wired in the link you posted.

[ev0lution7]

NO that will not power your BIKE AT ALL!

you need it between 85-86

its the "coil" in the "relay" i'm refering too that has KICK BACK!

goto the junkyard and pocket item a relay! then take the cover off and see how it works when you play with powering up the termals!

Ok if you put a diode in the 87-30 terminal your coils will produce about 500ish volts...

http://www.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm

check that out and it will explain coil electical fields!

basicly:

you induce 12v on the primary side
then you colapse the field (with opening the points)
as the field colapses it induces voltage on the Secondary side
as the secondary side rises in voltage (it is determined to the # of windings)

it produces "kick-Back" voltage on the secondary side (hence why you need capacitors and why you will get LOTS of Arc'n on the points and even with a good Cap it will still arc a little (best seen at night) check it out sometime)

that kickback voltage can be as high as 200V! on an ignition coil!

this HIGH kickback is what gives an ignition coil its power! and what makes it produce 15Kv - 45kv 

without this kick back it wouldnt work! everytime the kickback gets higher the secondary side get bigger!

so think to yourself:

WHY put a relay and supply Battery voltage to the coil instead of supply from the harness and to the kill switch then to the coil?


the answer is simple coil voltages compound evey volt you add on the primary side you almost double the "kick back" raising the secondary side and making the coil more effiencent!



same thing on a relay (a resistor relay buffers a little of it) but you can damage switches and other electrical equipment by not using a diode! the doide is a one way door! it wont let anything above a surtain voltage pass! so in a way it "suppresses" the voltage spike and saves the switch/ or comuter parts from die'n an early death!

if you get deeper into electrical theory it explains alot more in detail and it will give you a better understanding as to why things are they way they are!

Hope this helps!

[ev0lution7]

http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

there this explains more about car relays

[lordmoonpie]

does anyone have any info on the boyer/bransden ignition?

thanks for all of your help guys, this site and its members are awesome.

Yes I use boyers on all my bikes (until I save up for a PVL self generating ignition). Just put a boyer on my CR750 too with a power box this time so I can get rid of the battery. This will power lights etc and everything if you want to run without a battery on a road bike. Naturally you need a kickstarter for that or a battery to power the starter motor.

Boyer ignitions are really high quality for the price and pretty bomb proof. I've raced for a good few years with them and the company provides excellent backup as long as the model of ignition is not obsolete.

[Alan F.]

OK, so a diode goes across the relay coil with Cathode to terminal 86 and Anode to terminal 85.  

[ev0lution7]

the stripe USUALLY goes twards + not always some diode's are backwards

[Alan F.]

Ok then, thanks again for the tips and the links.  Ride well man.
-A