Author Topic: '80 CB650C Cruiser - Project Wraith - Another setback (Read 48144 times)

The_Crippler · « **Reply #100 on:** October 03, 2009, 03:05:34 PM »

I popped in some new plugs and a K&N filter today. It definitely started more easily and idled nicely - however, I'm still not able to open up the choke without it stumbling and then shutting down.

A few "buts" to add: First off, I did not take it out and ride it, so the engine temp might not have gotten up as fast as it otherwise might. I was able to open the choke a little bit after it idled for a few minutes, but never opened it all the way. Now, I remember my last early 80s in-line four took a long time to warm up. In highschool, I'd have the choke pulled must if the ride to school on a cold morning - however the owner's manual (something I never had for the old Suzuki) says to open it back up after 45 seconds. By way of comparison, my I choke my Vulcan while I'm putting on my helmet and gloves and then I'm good to go.

Frankenkit · « **Reply #101 on:** October 03, 2009, 06:29:26 PM »

My start-up procedure is to start with full choke (or half choke when it's hot out) and if it's grumpy another little wristfull of gas, and warm it up while I put all my stuff in, just nudging the choke down little by little so it stays at about 1.5-2k. Because my bike's not a CV carbed one, I can crank open the throttle once or twice, but if the venturi can't keep up with it, rpms will drop quite low for a moment after a high/loud rev. After a couple minutes of helmet/gloves on, garage locked, I can def. leave, but I still leave the choke about 1/2"-3/4" pulled out until I've gone a mile or two, and I test how well it'll take it by nudging it in and seeing if the rpms drop too low for the bike to take off comfortably from a stop light. Hope that helps... these bikes are pretty cold blooded.

The_Crippler · « **Reply #102 on:** October 03, 2009, 06:31:37 PM »

Great - it sounds like the short version is that I shouldn't be worried here. It's just SOP, right?

manjisann · « **Reply #103 on:** October 03, 2009, 08:48:59 PM »

haven't started my 650 yet, but I know on my 73 500 which is fairly cold blooded on a cold morning I'd start it let it idle for a minute to let the oil get moving a bit, and then take off with the choke still on. It was a few blocks before it'd start bogging down due to the choke and i'd take it off.

Brandon

The_Crippler · « **Reply #104 on:** October 03, 2009, 10:59:05 PM »

Quote from: manjisann on October 03, 2009, 08:48:59 PM

haven't started my 650 yet

You know, at this point, I think I'm as antsy as you for that thing to get on the road.

Okay - time for another episode of Stupid Questions With Crip.

There is this spot on the frame that I can't figure out what it's for:

(First: yes, I know there is a nut missing there.) Obviously that's made to hold something, but damned i I can figure out what it is. The Clymer manual shows a cable bundle or something there - but I A.) don't have anything that seems to fit there and B.) the pictures are really grainy and I can't see what it is.

The owner's manual itself seems to show something like this:

Which is great, 'cause I have no idea what it is...unfortunately, I still don't and can't figure out what it should hook up to.

Any ideas from the teeming masses?

scunny · « **Reply #105 on:** October 03, 2009, 11:41:09 PM »

spring that goes to your rear brake light switch

The_Crippler · « **Reply #106 on:** October 03, 2009, 11:53:07 PM »

Good catch. Got a pic of how it hooks up?

manjisann · « **Reply #107 on:** October 04, 2009, 04:19:01 AM »

+ Scunny, its the rear brake switch that sits in there. If no one else is able to post a pic I can get you one when I get off work tomorrow. Until then let me see if I can describe it.

The end with the wires is on top and the threaded end on the bottom. There should be a sorta nut with a kinda domed bottom side on it that is on the threaded end. The domed side faces downward and is what sits in that little holder. You put the spring on the little with thing sticking out the bottom of the brake switch. I don't believe it really matters how the spring is orientated, but I always put it with the log straight on the bottom engaging the brake pedal. To adjust the tension on the switch you just move the domed nut up or down the threaded part.

Hope that made sense, I'm typeing this at 5am and not sure the caffeine has kicked in yet.

Brandon

The_Crippler · « **Reply #108 on:** October 05, 2009, 06:07:21 AM »

Quote from: manjisann on October 04, 2009, 04:19:01 AM

Hope that made sense, I'm typeing this at 5am and not sure the caffeine has kicked in yet.

LOL! No, I'm sorry - I did not follow that at all without pictures, sorry.

The_Crippler · « **Reply #109 on:** October 07, 2009, 12:03:33 PM »

Took another look in my parts box and at the bike...I don't have any spare switch-looking things, nor any open connectors on the electrical switch...just that lone switch spring. Hmmm...

manjisann · « **Reply #110 on:** October 08, 2009, 06:12:22 AM »

hmmmm, I'll try and get pics tomorrow, the batteries in the camera died again

Those things last about as long as, well something that doesn't last long.

Brandon

The_Crippler · « **Reply #111 on:** October 08, 2009, 06:17:03 AM »

Jesus, man...are you documenting blackmail material on some local politician or something?

The_Crippler · « **Reply #112 on:** October 08, 2009, 06:58:25 AM »

BikeBandit to the rescue. I assume the circled part is what we're refering to? Yeah, I don't have that. I also don't think that I have an unused connectro on my harness for that (but i might have missed it.) At least the part is not expensive and is still available from them. Brandon - if you could still take a picture of how this part connects up, that would be fantastic.

manjisann · « **Reply #113 on:** October 08, 2009, 08:34:04 AM »

HAha, no I try and stay out of politics, all the lying and deceit gives me a stomach ache.

I'll try and get a pic and keep an eye out while I'm tidying up, I think I may have a spare one lying around from the parts bike. I've even got the electrics all hooked up so I could even test it to be sure it works

Gotta wait for payday friday, which reminds me, I guess I should go and see how small my check is.

Brandon

The_Crippler · « **Reply #114 on:** October 08, 2009, 08:44:48 AM »

This reminds me that I still need to trace the short to my taillight. I can't find anything, and as far up the wiring harnes as I've stripped and checked still shows no breaks in the line. I put it on the back burner, as getting it started was much more of a concern, but I have to get back to that. Given that the light works just fine for a while, and then randomly pops the fuse leads me to believe that it's something that's not obvious and needs to be bumped at just the right time.

andy120t · « **Reply #115 on:** October 09, 2009, 11:00:10 AM »

Heres a piccie of the switch - as per the diagram. The spring goes at the bottom and hooks onto the brake lever mechanism. Rounded plastic bit at the bottom sits in the bracket you have on the frame, wires point up and plug into the loom.

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k72/andy120t/brakelightswitchcb650.jpg[/img]]

The_Crippler · « **Reply #116 on:** October 09, 2009, 11:02:11 AM »

Thanks, Andy...is the spot it connects to on the brake mechanism pretty obvious?

manjisann · « **Reply #117 on:** October 09, 2009, 11:24:24 AM »

Its on the thing that your brake pedal connects to, theres a triangular shaped piece of metal with a small hole drilled through, it goes in that hole. You'll notice as you push down on the brake pedal that triangle moves down a bit and will pull the spring. If Andy or someone else doesn't beat me to it I'll try and get a pic, should hopefully have batteries after todays shopping.

Brandon

andy120t · « **Reply #118 on:** October 09, 2009, 12:41:07 PM »

I don't have that picture or that assembly as my bike is still half a box of bits!

However, from your parts diagram/picture earlier in the thread look at part 8. It has a horizontal arm with a notch in it sticking out horizontally/facing forwards. The bottom of the spring will hook under that arm / into that notch.

You can see from the diagram that if you press down on the brake pedal that arm will pivot downwards (ie remain parallel with the brake pedal). The spring attached to that will then also be pulled downwards and activate the switch. Hope that's clear.

Look forward to the piccie from Manjisann!

The_Crippler · « **Reply #119 on:** October 09, 2009, 06:31:14 PM »

Oh, excellent...I looked at my bike as I was walking in the garage and guess what: That bit was missing, too. I'm beginning to bet the PO deleted the whole assembly for some reason.

manjisann · « **Reply #120 on:** October 09, 2009, 08:14:45 PM »

Here's some pics, since it's assembled I couldn't get a clear pic but I did what I could.

Brandon

The_Crippler · « **Reply #121 on:** October 13, 2009, 08:37:53 AM »

Thanks for the pictures, man. Drat...I still can't figure out where the bottom of the spring connects...I but now that I know the general area, I can give it another look when I go home.

Hush · « **Reply #122 on:** October 13, 2009, 08:57:08 AM »

There's a shaft that the brake pedal fits onto, it goes through part of the frame and just behind the engine casings, there should be a lever there that the actuating rod (the long rod that runs back to the rear brakes) fits onto, this also is what the spring hooks onto.

The_Crippler · « **Reply #123 on:** October 13, 2009, 09:08:17 AM »

Thanks, Hush...I'll give that a look (I promise, Guys and Gals - I'm not as dense as I seem right now.)

Another question for the teaming masses: I need to replace the overflow tubes on the carbs and I'd like some new gas line between them and the petcock...is that something that I can just by some of some where and cut to length, or do I need to get it somewhere special? (For example, can I bring a piece of the over-flow tubing to Advanced and say, "I need 4' of this stuff"?)

Once I get a few more things straightened out on this bike, I'm thinking about getting it registered and then trailered to the shop this winter to get a once-over and inspection done. I've got most everything put back the way it should be, but as this is my first time on a project bike, I'd really like a professional second opinion (it's my neck, afterall.)

Once she gets a clean bill of health, the fun will begin.

manjisann · « **Reply #124 on:** October 13, 2009, 09:13:40 AM »

The overflow tubes aren't as critical, but the fuel tubes you want to be rated for fuel. If you get, say airhose, it will harden over time due to the fuel flow. Personally I go to the dealer and get the correct stuff, it fits better and you generally don't have to clamp it. These bikes are metric and the hose sizes used are metric. Most stores will carry the English sizes which are close but you usually need to use a hose clamp to keep on.

Just my 2 cents.

Brandon

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Author Topic: '80 CB650C Cruiser - Project Wraith - Another setback (Read 48144 times)