Topic: advice on getting these damn cylinder head studs out on my CB750F?

[moose373]

Mapp gas heat....Use the MAPP gas carefully and be sure to heat the area aroundthe base of the stud adn NOT the stud.

[motomotard]

i got six of em out and the rest are still being a pain

heat doesnt seem to do much, im using oxy acet at the base of the studs.

 i got one out with the bend and turn method, another one i bent, and it still wont move, the actual stud just twists. 

[Terry in Australia]

Ha ha, nah, just drinking Kentucky Bourbon and wondering what Frank's on John, it must be way stronger than Jack Daniels!

Terry,

One more F'Up like calling Tennessee swamp water (aka Jack Daniels) Kentucky Bourbon and I'll have your Maker's Mark Ambassadorship revoked! 

Jeezus! And Mike called me "pisssy"? 

Anyway, as nice as MM is, I think that my new dark mistress, "Blantons", is so much nicer again mate, methinks you should perhaps pull your head out of your arse for a wee moment, and upgrade to a higher state of (un) conciousness.................. 

[754]

Like you guys dont know what B.C. is famous for..

 Actually wasnt that, just a blonde moment..

[motomotard]

jesus these things have been a pain.

got a couple out with heat, lube, hammer, bend and turn, double nut.... whatever worked, and finally had to use a buddies stud extractor set.  that worked better but still had problems. 

eventually got all but two of them out.  the last two broke off right above the case, stud would just twist until it snapped.  guess ill have to drill and use an extractor on those.

all of these were seriously in there.... like they were never meant to be taken out.

bunch of them broke and i had to use the extractor further down the stud. 

pics of the carnage

[MRieck]

It's an F2....that's your problem.

[scondon]

eventually got all but two of them out.  the last two broke off right above the case, stud would just twist until it snapped.  guess ill have to drill and use an extractor on those.

I feel yer pain, hate having new studs on hand and looking at those little nubs stuck in the holes holding everything up.

 I'm curious if an extractor is the way to go? Seems to me that if they're stuck in there that bad that the extractor bit wouldn't do much good. I've taken my bottom end to a nearby shop and they welded a bolt to the nubs and spun them out with an impact wrench. The high heat of welding, followed by a quick cool down, had those nubs spinning out pretty easy. Cost me $30, but it saved me a lot of agony.

It's an F2....that's your problem.

I must be a freakin' masochist then 

[MRieck]

eventually got all but two of them out.  the last two broke off right above the case, stud would just twist until it snapped.  guess ill have to drill and use an extractor on those.

I feel yer pain, hate having new studs on hand and looking at those little nubs stuck in the holes holding everything up.

 I'm curious if an extractor is the way to go? Seems to me that if they're stuck in there that bad that the extractor bit wouldn't do much good. I've taken my bottom end to a nearby shop and they welded a bolt to the nubs and spun them out with an impact wrench. The high heat of welding, followed by a quick cool down, had those nubs spinning out pretty easy. Cost me $30, but it saved me a lot of agony.

It's an F2....that's your problem.

I must be a freakin' masochist then 

I've welded on washer and used vice grips...the welding heat really helps but it is an F2 Sean....prayers and promises of sainthood really help. I'll be out in your area for a very short stay in a month.....I'll let you know bro.
   Mike

[Hinz]

Believe it or not, I used a standard set of Knipex adjustable pliers.  
http://www.knipex.com/
They are one of the best tools in my toolbox.
I tried vice grips, double nutting and even a stud remover and the Knipex pliers did the job when the rest failed.  
That single pair of pliers have never ceased to amaze me.

[MCRider]

eventually got all but two of them out.  the last two broke off right above the case, stud would just twist until it snapped.  guess ill have to drill and use an extractor on those.

I feel yer pain, hate having new studs on hand and looking at those little nubs stuck in the holes holding everything up.

 I'm curious if an extractor is the way to go? Seems to me that if they're stuck in there that bad that the extractor bit wouldn't do much good. I've taken my bottom end to a nearby shop and they welded a bolt to the nubs and spun them out with an impact wrench. The high heat of welding, followed by a quick cool down, had those nubs spinning out pretty easy. Cost me $30, but it saved me a lot of agony.

It's an F2....that's your problem.

I must be a freakin' masochist then  

I did the same, machine shop welded a rod to the stub, heated the cases and turned it out. Cost about $30 too, for the one. It was a case I boit from eBay, I didn't break it.

Did you soak in penetrant first? That worked for me with a stud extractor, on the set I did myself. Course that's after the fact now, in your case.

[SD750F]

My machinist gave me a great idea that really help! He said to buy some caning paraffin. Yes the same white wax caners use to seal the top of their produce. Then take a torch and heat the engine block. Nice and evenly and not to hot. Then wipe the block of paraffin along the head stud and the block. Capillary action will pull the wax into the threads and provide a great lubricant. Worked on all but the two front center studs on my bike. Too much corrosion was present from the PO not taking care of his bike. Use any of the tools mentioned above. And NEVER reuse your studs. Replace them with a nice new set.

Scott

[754]

One thing I have not heard on here..


 If something is stuck in aluminum;
 When you do start to get it moving, before you get more than 1/4 turn..work it back and forth, then turn out a bit more & repeat.

 Gives any small, stuck area of alum thread a chance to shear off.. if it doesnt, it can take the whole thread out.   ..not a good thing to have to helicoil them..

[mystic_1]

Then take a torch and heat the engine block. Nice and evenly and not to hot. Then wipe the block of paraffin along the head stud and the block. Capillary action will pull the wax into the threads and provide a great lubricant.

I just used a similar technique last week.  Most of the studs came out OK with the stud extractor, double-nutting, or flat-jawed vice grips, but one was corroded at the base and was being stubborn.  I hit it for 30 seconds with the propane torch right at the base of the stud, heating both the block and the stud, then killed the torch and dripped some liquid wrench penetrating oil onto the base of the stud.  I could see it being pulled down into the threads one drop at a time.  After about 4 drops it stopped accepting more oil, and when I put my vicegrips back on it it finally turned out. 

mystic_1

[JohnG]

I put the stud in a bench vice and used the crankcase half like a wrench and they came out. Might have used some heat (propane tank) on one, but the main thing was the crankcase giving me all kinds of torque.