Topic: Ignition Issues: Out of Ideas

[Findlater]

That did help explain things and Im a little less frustrated however its a digital meter so knowing what setting to use is hard.  on the 2k setting I get the numbers above... which means open or closed on the point Im assuming there is a connection somewhere IE: a short or ground?  how would i find it?

[punch455]

Did you disconnect the yellow lead completely?

[Findlater]

Did you disconnect the yellow lead completely?

Yes open yellow lead to negative battery terminal and a test just grounding to engine and same numbers

[punch455]

Ok this is good. But just to make sure, it was 47 to 52 OHMS right?  is there a "K" after that number?

[punch455]

And is there a decimal point in there anywhere?

[Findlater]

that is the number on the 2k setting no decimal points and correct. If I move it down there would probably be a decimal lol


on the 200 scale of whatevere the f**k on this retarded digial readout that doesnt tell me much it was 5.2 ohms open or closed on the point

If I move it to 2000k it says its 052

[punch455]

Alright.  We now know that your 2-3 primary ignition lead has a short to ground. This is good news.  You just have to find it now.  Start checking that yellow wire up through the harness, making sure to look for any worn areas that are up against the bike frame.  The other end of that yellow wire plugs into the coil. 

[mystic_1]

The points wiring runs out of the ignition case via a grommet and then runds under the engine along the right lower frame rail, up past the swingarm pivot to a set of connections near the rear brake switch.  There should be a rubber boot behind the frame rail, pull it up and access the blue and yellow wires there.  Disconnect the yellow wire at that point and repeat your test exactly as before, testing at the end of the wire in the points case. 

Get the same results?  That means the short is between the points case and the harness connection.

Get different results (infinite resistance)?  That means the short is higher up in the harness.


mystic_1

[Findlater]

thanks again guys I will do that quick test because on quick inspection of the harness there is no chafe or an apparent issues
at a 1 or 2 points the tape covering the wires has been removed or fallen off but the wires underneath look pristeen. I may just run a new cable to see if it solves the problem and leave the old one where it is. I'll post results soon

[Findlater]

The problem is in the harness I decided instead of look for the problem I would disconnect that wire entirely and run a new wire- I connected to the points wire and straight to the coil- no spark. If you guess have anymore ideas I'll be freaking impressed.

[Kevin D]

You asked for a picture of how the washers and wires line up so here it is.

Heres a wiring diagram:

http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/wiring750K1.html


Findlater, I might come to Ontario and fix that thing if you will let me ride that #41

 

[punch455]

Is that picture right? Wow I've had my connections on opposite sides of the point all these years!

[tomsweb1]

Looks to me like the yellow wire and the point spring are touching ground... no fibre washer between them and the plate... am I mistaken?

[BlackMax]

I read through the post, but I didn't see how you know there's no spark at 2 and 3. In other words, how'd you test for spark?  It sounds dumb, but I just went through the exact same thing (dealing with 1 and 4). I polished and gapped the points, tested the coils (fine)...still no spark.   When I tested the bare wires, there was spark.  My solution was to really really clean the offending plugs.  Sure enough, it fired up like a champ.    Now, I need to figure why the plugs fouled out in the first place....since it'll come back.

Kinda dumb, but wanted to throw it out there

[mystic_1]

Post about the point plate insulating washers:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=51134.msg543537#msg543537





mystic_1