Topic: unsuccessful removing bearing retainer...

[Joe]

I made a tool using an angle grinder wrench and some skateboard hardware, unfortunately the galvanized metal bent under pressure when I applied pressure.  I'm gonna get some plate steel today, and try again but I had a question....

Does anyone know if the threads are reversed on these retainers??  It's from a '76 cb750F.

[mystic_1]

750s have standard threads there, but it doesn't look like you've drilled out the retaining stake marks.  Use a 1/4 inch bit and drill about 1/4 inch deep on the little dimple marks.  This will release the deformed metal that's keeping the retainer from spinning out.

mystic_1

[SKTP]

What is that bearing called? I have seen many sites with "wheel bearings" sale but never a lone Sproket bearing?

[Joe]

I did drill em out, but I went real easy with a 1/16'' bit, since I'm hoping to salvage the retainer and reuse it.  Am I going to have to replace the retainer regardless??

[Joe]

What is that bearing called? I have seen many sites with "wheel bearings" sale but never a lone Sproket bearing?

There's a sealed bearing under the retainer, and an open bearing on the opposing side.  I'm new to this setup as well.

[MCRider]

What is that bearing called? I have seen many sites with "wheel bearings" sale but never a lone Sproket bearing?

That's the "sprocket carrier" bearing. It is the same size as one of the wheel hub bearings. So the CB750 actually has 3 rear wheel bearings, 2 in the hub, one in the sprocket carrier. The extra one to help carry the load of all that extra CB750 power.   

[MCRider]

I made a tool using an angle grinder wrench and some skateboard hardware, unfortunately the galvanized metal bent under pressure when I applied pressure.  I'm gonna get some plate steel today, and try again but I had a question....

Does anyone know if the threads are reversed on these retainers??  It's from a '76 cb750F.

Your tool has some design deficiensies. The bolts acting as "pins" should be shorter so the nuts are resting on the retainer. This will allow you to transfer turning power to the retainer rather than to steadying the tool. Also, the strap on the tool should extend to both sides of the pins so you cn get both hands on it.

What you've got will work, but my suggestions will make it better. From my own trial and error experience.

Be sure those stakes are drilled out or all bets are off. Won't hurt to drill a little big and deep. Not too much, but it doesn't have to be exact. You can still use the retainer with oversize stake relief holes.

With the sprocket carrier out of the wheel, you may have trouble getting enough leverage on it. If you have a big vice, put it in that. Otherwise, put it back in the wheel.

This is the front wheel, but you get the idea

[Joe]

I'll make sure and pick up a large piece of flat stock and set it up just like you said (makes more sense)

Thanks a million

[BobbyR]

I made a tool using an angle grinder wrench and some skateboard hardware, unfortunately the galvanized metal bent under pressure when I applied pressure.  I'm gonna get some plate steel today, and try again but I had a question....

Does anyone know if the threads are reversed on these retainers??  It's from a '76 cb750F.

You really need to drill out those spiked areas more, it will make it easier and also prevent damage to the threads. It is very important to get the nuts down on the surface of the retainer. You were on track, just a couple of details and you are good to go. Did it myself in a 78K two weeks ago.