Topic: Chain recommendations please?

[Jim Shea]

I need to replace the chain and sprocket on my 76 F1. I would prefer to replace it with a standard chain, unless an O ring fits without any messing about? I am told the standard chain is perfectly ok, but it is a good idea to rivet the link instead of using the removable one?
The DSS chain is 15 quid, front sprocket is 7quid and rear is 15 quid. Can anyone recommend a better quality chain and sprocket? I am in the Uk, so postage costs would be an issue!

[mcpuffett]

hello jim, that sounds pretty good for chain and sprocket kit standard chain is more than adequate on these old girls,i usually pay about £20 quid for a chain 520h and 102 links for my 750 f1   mick.

[Jim Shea]

Mick,
Thanks, where do you get them from? and do you use the removable link?
Jim.

[mcpuffett]

hi jim, usually local bike shop or shows etc,and yes i usually use a split link, mick.

[Jim Shea]

Mick,
Ta. I think I am being a bit paranoid about the link thing! after all they were designed to work on these ikes?
Jim.

[Jim Shea]

I am looking for a chain that will last a couple of years maybe! I don't commute on the bike, so I do not do big miles!

[MRieck]

Mick,
Ta. I think I am being a bit paranoid about the link thing! after all they were designed to work on these ikes?
Jim.

After installing the clip clean it well and apply some silicone rubber or Yamabond to it. Don't over do it.

[Dennis]

Mick,
Ta. I think I am being a bit paranoid about the link thing! after all they were designed to work on these ikes?
Jim.

After installing the clip clean it well and apply some silicone rubber or Yamabond to it. Don't over do it.

 

INTERETING technique!
Thanks Mike, that's one I never heard of before, but it sure sounds useful.

[mick750F]

   While we're on the subject of chain links...I just installed a rivet type link in my chain. The rivet flares about 1/100th of an inch. Is this enough? It doesn't seem like much. If I try to flare it any more I'll compress the link.

Mike

[Sam Green Racing]

Mick,

if you can't pull it or prise it off then the jobs done.
Mikes idea for chains with a split link sounds good or you can do as I do, lock wire it on.

Jimmy Shea,

See  What brand drive chain do you use.....is it good    started by Biffta (Dave)

[mick750F]

   Thanks Sam. I've used clip links in the past so wasn't sure what to expect with a rivet type. I thought I had it but wasn't sure. Using the rivet type allowed me to buy an overpriced tool that I'll hardly ever use. A tool junkies mantra. When you "lock wire" it on are you wiring a clip type link taking advantage of the grooves in the link pins?

Mike

[Sam Green Racing]

Yes to that Mike, If you had lived in England you could have used my over priced tool that I will probably never use again. ;

[oldbiker]

Have faith you guys. In over 30 years of racing, I always used split links and NEVER had one come off.

[Jim Shea]

Thanks chaps,
Sounds like the split link is perfectly OK, I agree adding some Yamabond or lock wire as suggested must be worth it.

[SteveD CB500F]

Jim, I have a chain breaker if you need to shorten a new chain (or remove the old one)

I've used split links for the last 30 years with no problems. Just make sure you fit it the right way round!

[Jim Shea]

Steve,
Thanks. I was thinking of having someone fit the sprockets and chain for me?
You in or out today??
Jim.

[Dennis]

I was thinking of having someone fit the sprockets and chain for me?

You 'gotta' be kidding. Save your money to pay someone to do the difficult stuff.
You did comment that you need to do these things on a budger in another post didn't you?

This really isn't technically challanging, plus I'm sure that you will clean up the area better than someone you hire to do the job. It gets kind of messy by the front sprocket with old chain lube and whatever it picks up from the road.

[Jim Shea]

Dennis,
I would rather do the job myself. Is it really something that can be done easily by a rookie? this would be the firts time for me fitting a new chain.

[Bob Wessner]

Is it really something that can be done easily by a rookie?

I did, and I'm the rooky of all rookies.  And as Dennis points out, you get to clean some things up. The rear hub is hard to do while mounted, now you can have at it. 

[Dennis]

Is it really something that can be done easily by a rookie?

Easier than most things the new guys try.
Remove chain guard and drive sprocket cover.
Simply grind off the ends of the pins of one link, and use a pin punch or nail to drive the link out of the chain. (Usually easier when the link you choose is at the rear sprocket.) Remove chain. Clean as desired. Loosen rear wheel, adjust forward and install chain using link as previously posted. Align and tighten rear wheel and replace guard and cover. Messy, but simple.

[Bob Wessner]

I thought he was planning to replace both sprockets as well 

[Jim Shea]

I was planning to replace both, I am told that you need to do both sprockets and the chain at the same time?

[Jim Shea]

I assume the 'small' spocket is the difficult one to remove?

[Dennis]

Two bolts and a keeper ring on the 400 piece of piss job I should imagine the 750 is about the same sort of job..... Dave

 

750 is the same
just have to play with the sprocket cover a little bit to get it off, it's a little tight, bit it slips by

BTW I find it easier to "break" the bolts before I remove the chain, that way you have the option of using the rear brake to hold it for you

[Buffo]

I have a 750K8 and run a 630 chain...some like a 530...will you be doing the 530 convertion?