Author Topic: It's time to get her ready for the trip, but... (Read 2668 times)

IAmCitizenMe · « **on:** May 11, 2009, 05:10:24 PM »

So, I need a new chain. But, what concerns me is the sound the chain is making as it rubs against... I don't know what. I tried to take a look but the screw was already partially stripped out and my attempts wielded no positive results.

I don't know if it is just me growing accustomed to my first motorcycle, but it seems to be getting more difficult to shift gears. I don't know if these problems are related. Also, a little oil leaks from the shifter and from a tiny hole under the engine.

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This is where the oil is slightly dripping. Here and where the shifter comes out of the engine.

This is the damned stripped screw that has given me a headache for a while now.

My baby

Any handy wrenchers in the St. Louis area?

BlindJoe · « **Reply #1 on:** May 11, 2009, 05:15:10 PM »

you try an impact driver that screw yet?

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #2 on:** May 11, 2009, 05:23:07 PM »

I tried renting one today but the only place that had one to rent said theirs was broken. A guy told me that he restors old cars and if I put ice on the head of the screw while it's still hot and tap the screw driver with a hammer, it should loosen up with some work. But I swear that screw-head is made of clay. I'm pretty broke from the school year and haven't started my new job yet so buying an impact driver is really pushin't it for me. But at the same time I'd like to survive my daily commutes.

Flying J · « **Reply #3 on:** May 11, 2009, 05:24:17 PM »

have you replaced the chain before? Did you put an O-ring chain on it. Twotired says thats is a big no no as it will rub a hole in a seal and leak oil.

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #4 on:** May 11, 2009, 05:27:16 PM »

I have not yet replaced the chain. Whoever had it before me may have. I went into the whole thing kinda blind. All I knew was that I loved the look and feel of the CBs. So I bought one. How do I tell if it's an O-Ring chain or an OEM chain?

BlindJoe · « **Reply #5 on:** May 11, 2009, 05:30:18 PM »

You can buy an impact driver for less than $10 at Harbor Freight

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #6 on:** May 11, 2009, 06:05:16 PM »

Okay. So I got one an impact driver. All the other screws came out with a little bit of force. But that one screw remains. I have even whipped out a special stripped-screw-romover bit. But to no avail. I think if I keep at it the way I've been going there wont be a screw head left

brady0706 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 11, 2009, 06:41:11 PM »

I had the same issue once on my 550. Try tapping at an angle on it with a small chisel and hammer. You just need to get "unfroze" and that worked for me. Good luck!

Pete T · « **Reply #8 on:** May 11, 2009, 07:11:21 PM »

wait why dont you just drill the head of the bolt off and then just remove the cover, you will have the shaft of the bolt sticking out, like a stud, and you can just screw it out with a pair of vice grips, would that not work?

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #9 on:** May 11, 2009, 07:15:57 PM »

Quote from: brady0706 on May 11, 2009, 06:41:11 PM

I had the same issue once on my 550. Try tapping at an angle on it with a small chisel and hammer. You just need to get "unfroze" and that worked for me. Good luck!

It worked! Thanks man!

The culprit

The pain in the arse

BlindJoe · « **Reply #10 on:** May 11, 2009, 07:37:17 PM »

nice job man! that screw has def. seen better days

Alan F. · « **Reply #11 on:** May 11, 2009, 07:51:35 PM »

I had several stuck screws on my 750K3, all but one cme out with the impact driver, one buggered up like yours did. I drilled it out a little at a time paranoid I'd wreck the cover it was holding on. When the drill bit finally seperated the screw's head form the rest of the screw, I knew I had done it.
After removing the cover, the rest of the screw threaded out easily by hand, no tools used. It's the screw heads reacting to the engine cases and siezing up. The trick about heating the screw with a torch and holding an ice cube against the screw head just might be the trick. Next time I take an engine apart I'll be sure to give it a shot.

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #12 on:** May 11, 2009, 07:56:41 PM »

Yea. I tried that. It may have helped, but what ultimately did it was pure anger.

That and the help of folks like y'all.

Does anyone have any remedies for that hole? It is a very slow leak, so I won't have to stick gum on it or anything. But I don't want it to turn into a major problem either.

Hush · « **Reply #13 on:** May 13, 2009, 03:13:45 PM »

Depends where it's actually leaking from, a shifter seal aint a hard fix but if it's just a slight drip and you aren't losing bucket loads I'd put up with it, keep checking your oil level on a daily basis though as you could be losing more as you ride.
Bend your chain guide (the manged thing) back to its' original shape and bolt it back to that bolt.
"O" ring chains have wee rubber shock absorbers between the links, they are a real PITA to fit and cost more so as your 550 can't run them you are onto a winner.

TwoTired · « **Reply #14 on:** May 13, 2009, 04:04:45 PM »

Three common places for the oil leak in that area, are the oil pressure sender unit on the oil pump, the oil pump cover, and the shifter shaft seal.

Clean it off, run the engine and see where it leaks. You can spray with foot powder to show the leak point.

O ring chains are wider than standard and you can see where the o rings are in the links causing the width increase.

If you've had an o ring chain on there long enough, you can also get a leak through a rubberized cap in the case that the chain eats through.

Start with cleaning so you can see what is going on.

IAmCitizenMe · « **Reply #15 on:** July 22, 2009, 05:41:44 PM »

Quote from: TwoTired on May 13, 2009, 04:04:45 PM

Three common places for the oil leak in that area, are the oil pressure sender unit on the oil pump, the oil pump cover, and the shifter shaft seal.

You were right, TT. It was the shifter seal. Still only lightly dripping oil and my oil level/pressure is consistently good. Could I get a shifter seal from Bike Bandit or something similar? Any tips on replacing them? Thanks, G.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #16 on:** July 22, 2009, 05:48:35 PM »

Sorry to hijack but TT, i was planning on running an O ring chain on my 750, i will be using a cycleX offset sprocket on the front to get my chain to line up properly, {using wider wheels}
Will this be ok?

Mick

TwoTired · « **Reply #17 on:** July 22, 2009, 05:51:34 PM »

Quote from: IAmCitizenMe on July 22, 2009, 05:41:44 PM

You were right, TT. It was the shifter seal. Still only lightly dripping oil and my oil level/pressure is consistently good. Could I get a shifter seal from Bike Bandit or something similar? Any tips on replacing them? Thanks, G.

Quite a few threads about this already. Here's one of them:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=8384.msg77722#msg77722

TwoTired · « **Reply #18 on:** July 22, 2009, 05:59:38 PM »

Quote from: retro rocket on July 22, 2009, 05:48:35 PM

Sorry to hijack but TT, i was planning on running an O ring chain on my 750, i will be using a cycleX offset sprocket on the front to get my chain to line up properly, {using wider wheels}
Will this be ok?

Mick

I'd like to help, Mick. But, I've really only been intimate with 77-78 F model 750's (630 o-ring chains). I've not heard of any problems with using an o ring chain on a 750. They seem to have plenty clearance. Just how much offset does your sprocket have? Is it inward or outward offset? (I'd expect outward, in which case I'd probably check for cover clearance, perhaps with modeling clay inside plastic wrap.)

Cheers,

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #19 on:** July 22, 2009, 06:02:32 PM »

Thanks TT, it has 10mm offset outward...

Mick

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Author Topic: It's time to get her ready for the trip, but... (Read 2668 times)