Topic: CB750 K6 full resto by a noob

[espngo]

Hello all, technically this is my first real post. I've been a lurker for about a month now. I've already introduced myself in the New Member Introduction section. For those who did not read my intro, hello and greetings from Houston.

Basically, for my first (real) post, my question is this:

I'm about to tear down a fully working, fully functional CB750 K6 (albeit very dirty, rusty, greasy and dull looking) and do a full resto. What does that mean? I want it completly stock, clean and looking like the day it rolled off the showroom floor in 1976. Sounds crazy? Maybe. Step 1: I am wanting to take everydown to the frame and repaint the frame. It's dull, it has some rust spots and I'd like to freshen that up first. I'll then proceed with putting everything back together and polishing the heck out of every component, screw, bolt, nook and cranny. Here is my question for all those who have powdercoated or painted the frame and have done the same thing. What were your steps in tearing it down. Is there a certain order? Is there a walkthrough I can follow? I'm not looking for a screw by screw walkthrough, but some more general. IE, start with the seat, then the gas tank, then the airbox, then the carbs, etc. Watch out for "this" and be careful with "that". Anyone out there who has done this before with advice? If you put together something nice, maybe it'll be posted in the FAQ forum and given a new section for "Frame" or something like that. Thanks in advance.

[burmashave]

espngo, have you downloaded one of the available manuals from the thread in the forum home page? I'd guess that other folks have better answers, but I'd just start somewhere and start disassembling with an eye towward making my life easier as I go. I'd label and box up everything. I'd do the wheels and center stand last.

For covers, there's a good technique (I forget who suggested it) of taking a good size piece of cardboard and drawing the outline of the cover and then pushing through each bolt through the cardboard where it fits on the cover. This will be important because the covers all have different size bolts around their perimeters.

Then, there are things you may not wish to leave stock. If you haven't picked up a manual impact wrench, you'll likely need to (they aren't expensive). The Philips head screws are a pain to get off, and once you do, you may want to replace the Philips with polished hex bolts available from different folks.

[ekpent]

Take lots of pictures with a digital camera of things like wiring and routing of tubing etc.Make notes of important items in a notebook,may be awhile before it all comes back together. I know because my "mind" was a terrible thing to waste

[espngo]

Before I begin documenting my full resto, here is what my bike looks like before I did anything.





So far my workplace is pretty organized. I'm taking LOTS of pictures of wire connections and trying to document what colors go where. To me, the electrical system is the hardest part. I don't understand it very well and it's pretty overwhelming. The mechanical stuff I think I can handle.

Items removed so far: tank, seat, air box, carburetor and (the hardest part) wire harness

[ev0lve]

Wow. Nice looking bike. The only suggestion I have for you is to head on down to your local big box hardware store and get yourself some numbered stickers BEFORE you pull any wires apart. I took pictures of the wires in the bucket - it didn't help all that much 

Something like


If everything in the bucket hasn't been touched then all you'll have to do is match them back up to get it back together properly.

[ev0lve]

Oh, also... rusty bolts (fork caps, shock nuts etc) will clean up nicely with a wire wheel but will almost immediately rust back over. I tried to keep them a little oiled but, short of paint, didn't find a reasonable solution other than new.

Maybe someone else on the board has some tips on that front (cause I'd like to know as well  )

[espngo]

DOH! I didn't think about those labels. They are awesome. Thanks for the tip. Too bad I've already started and already got the harness off. Bummer. I'm sure masking tape and a sharpie would work just as good and much cheaper too though huh?

[ev0lve]

There only 5 or 6 bucks but I wish I'd thought to label them in any fashion before hand as well   Course, they're labeled now. Next time 

[espngo]

Progress is slow. I am documenting every step and taking pictures of everything (almost everything) along the way.

The kickstand spring is kicking my A$$. Still not able to get it off yet. Yes, I know, it's pretty easy. You come over and do it for me then. The header pipe screws that hold in the flange are kicking my A$$ too. I managed to take out 5 of 8, the remaining 3 started to slip so I decided to remove the headers from the clamp instead. I'm gonna hit it with an impactor after I've removed the engine from the frame. I have 2 cotter pins that I have no idea where they go. I guess I failed to take pictures of them. *sigh* I don't have a jack or a stand for the font fork. Not sure how i'm gonna remove the engine just yet. Any suggestions for some of the issues I'm running into so far?

Question for you guys: will the entire front end come off as 1 unit if I detach it from the triple tree? I really don't want to have to remove the tire, then the forks, etc.

Items removed so far: front and rear sprockets, drive chain, swingarm, rear tire, rear fender

[Achmed]

A trick I have read about on here is removing everything else from the frame except the engine, then laying the bike over and pulling the frame off the engine. I haven't done it myself although many of the members have. I guess it saves your back to some extent. Cotter pins will be the least of your worries. Even if you forget where they went, the parts fiches should show where they go.

If you're doing a frame-off restoration, (which it doesn't even look like you need to do from that first picture!) you will want to take the whole front end apart anyway. One way is to use tiedowns attached to something sturdy above to hold up the top and remove the components.

[the technological J]

hey some ideas that has helped me with wiring.. i took some classes on electronics... instead of electricity and wires think of it as water and pipes.. alot of the same principles apply...and a cinder block fits pretty decent under my 550 when i have front end troubles... by the way from the look of ur before pic i would have thought it was already restored.... Have u posted anything yet in the project shop?

[ev0lve]

*sigh* I don't have a jack or a stand for the font fork. Not sure how i'm gonna remove the engine just yet. Any suggestions for some of the issues I'm running into so far?

If you've got a leftover 2x4 around you can notch one end, give it a wide base and jam the whole contraption up under the headstock. Best pic I've got...

Question for you guys: will the entire front end come off as 1 unit if I detach it from the triple tree? I really don't want to have to remove the tire, then the forks, etc.

Hmmm, I think you could slide the forks out with the wheel attached but you'd have to get the front end pretty high up in the air to do it. There's 7 - 8 inches of play to free the forks from the triple tree IIRC. Getting the wheel off is pretty easy though.

Actually, maybe you could just lift the frame off the forks instead? If they're not rusted in (mine were) they should slide out pretty easy.

[espngo]

Thanks for the compliments. The picture is decieving. Up close, the bike is dirty, greasy and looks as though it's never been washed in its 33 years of existence. The frame is really scratched up and some minor rust spots in lots of little areas. The swingarm and centerstand has some medium rusting.

I apologize but I have not posted anything in the project shop.

Iggy, thanks for the suggestions.

Anyone try the "engine on its side" method of removing the frame from the engine as suggested above?

[espngo]

The front end and all electrical components have been removed. I'm down to the frame and engine. Since Im doing this by myself without any help, I'm still thinking about laying the frame over on its side and pulling the frame off the engine. Can anyone verify that this method works? Can someone suggest a better method? Here's what I got so far....

[espngo]

Phase 1: disassembly - complete
Phase 2: paint & polish - 50% complete
Phase 3: reassembly - will start in 2 weeks

The frame, swingarm, chain guard and triple clamp all came back from the powdercoat. Paid $235 total. Good price? It came out looking beautifully. I'm happy with it. Removing the rubber shock mount bushings on the swingarm was a pain. Had to destroy them out. Bent 2 c-clamps and broke a 3/8in bolt trying. The solid metal pivot bushings I kept in. Lost a few ball bearing when dismantling the front end, but bought 1/4in steel sling shot ammo. Way cheaper than "ball bearings".

Currently, I am cleaning and polishing the engine. I've read thread after thread after thread about how to brighten up, polish, clean and degrease the engine. I've read all the different strategies, suggestions and tips. Some of them work, most dont.

Getting in between the fins is kicking my a$$. I'm using a .223 bore brush and attached it to a drill. Works ok until the bristles lay over. Reversing the drill gives me a few more minutes of scrubbing but continuously doing that ruins the brush. I've been through 3 brushes so far. They're not cheap. Can anyone suggest a better product? I've already tried the sandpaper wrapped around a paint stirrer. Doesn't work well for me. Also tried cutting scotch brite pads into little strips and shoving a screwdriver through it. Didn't work well either. Any other suggestions? I am refusing to split the cases and take the covers off.

Aircraft stripper is awesome stuff. Takes everything off the metal in seconds. Will even take off your skin if not careful. Burns like heck. Went through 4 pairs of gloves. Eats through latex, nitrile, rubber and vinyl. Settled on PVC gloves and works good.

Reposol engine degreaser is CRAP. Honda polish is CRAP too.

0000 steel wool is awesome but someone here told me the bits will embed themselves and rust. I'm starting to see it. So I've switched to 1000 & 1500 grit sandpaper.

The polish phase is really frustrating me and I'm halfway thinking about saying screw it and start reassembly.

[Zaipai]

Polishing is very time consuming. Patents is key. If you can not be ask around to different auto body shops and see if any of them would be willing to do the work for you. Might be some what pricey but it would get done and fast and you would not be so frustrated. Kudo's to you for doing this. Also sweet shop you got there...