Author Topic: My Dunstall CB750 (Read 51599 times)

Laids · « **Reply #50 on:** August 04, 2010, 03:21:51 PM »

Yes, Ontario Cycle Salvage. When I bought the Dunstall pipes yesterday Paul showed me a Dunstall silencer, it looked a bit large at the time so I just phoned him back for the size. The O.D. is 2" it might be for a 4 into 1. He said he had at one time a lot of sets of the 4 into 2 Dunstall silencers and was blowing them out for $50.00. He regrets it now. Hindsight is 20/20 isn't it. The silencers I did buy from them are 24" long and more of a megaphone than a cone, I envisioned Peashooters and a little longer but these seem to be well made and were only $150.00 for the pair brand new, nice chrome with all the clamps. I have to wait to hear what they sound like as the bike is at the cottage. I guess we missed the boat on that sale.

srook · « **Reply #51 on:** August 06, 2010, 01:08:39 PM »

Here's a video of the Dunstall Decibel mufflers. This was to see what they sounded like. You can see the mounting plates weren't even installed. The camera picked up alot of clutch rattle. It does rattle at idle but not as bad as the camera makes it sound.

[youtube=425,350]<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="

name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="

type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>[/youtube]

Scott

fishhead · « **Reply #52 on:** August 08, 2010, 06:08:47 AM »

It has come along way and is looking good!!

Front fender:
I think your front fender may be a Rickman/Rickman copy (MX/Enduro, for 21 inch wheel). I've had a few of them in the past and they always have the big gaps in the front and rear of the fender (unlike the "Dunstall" that hugs the 19 inch tire). Some people sell the "Dunstall style" fenders that end up fitting/looking like a Rickman copy. The Dunstall and Rickman front fenders look close to identical, other that the radius being different. Side by side (Dunstall and Rickman fenders), the different radius can be seen. (I think Tracy even made a fender similar to this).

Just an FYI, The bike still looks great !!

srook · « **Reply #53 on:** August 08, 2010, 08:26:02 AM »

Thanks. That fender has bothered me also. I have been trolling ebay for the real thing but they never come up. I bought that fender from Glass From The Past as a Dunstall fender but it isn't right. Let me know if you come across one and don't want it for yourself. Hopefully I can get one before I get this thing painted over the winter.
Thanks
Scott

Zaipai · « **Reply #54 on:** August 08, 2010, 08:37:35 AM »

Scott,
Nice work. She sounds great, can't wait to see the finished product. Did you get some shack down miles on it? Any real issues?

.: Scott :.

srook · « **Reply #55 on:** August 08, 2010, 10:00:56 PM »

Few major issues so far. The motor is oil tight and not burning any either. I did not like the riding position with the fork mounted clip-ons. It stretched me too far over the tank and I couldn't see over the windscreen. I switched them out for a set of NOS Dunstall clip-ons that mount on the top tree. They are much more comfortable and allow me to turn the bars farther, side to side. The custom clutch cable ended up being just a little too short with the Dunstall clip-ons, so I replaced it with a stock length cable. I haven't been able to rev it over 5000 rpm yet (break-in) so I can't really judge the speed but it gets to 5k in all the gears pretty quickly. Right now the bike is not rideable. I am currently having an issue with a major component that I don't want to disclose because I am trying to get it fixed. If the vendor stands behind their product then all will be good. If not I will be sure to let everyone know the particulars.

Dunstall clip-ons.

Thanks
Scott

srook · « **Reply #56 on:** August 26, 2010, 12:02:07 PM »

Update:
The bike is back on the road. I haven't been able to take it for an extended ride yet but it is back to fighting shape. I ran it around the block a few times and it runs great. My issue was fixed by the vendor. Many thanks for that. I think it is really great when people stand behind their products.

I have started a Dunstall Honda Blog and will be updating with all things Dunstall Honda. My goal is to create a stand alone page for Dunstall information. I will be updating with period road tests on the Dunstall Honda soon. I just need to get them scanned.

http://dunstallhonda.wordpress.com/

Will update with a ride report after this weekend.

Thanks
Scott

Rookster · « **Reply #57 on:** July 07, 2011, 03:34:07 PM »

I deleted the srook account and chose to use this one instead. This was an older account I had set up in the past.

The project has been coming along. The body parts have been out for paint and should be back soon. In the mean time I am in the process of fitting dual disks. Just waiting for the caliper to come back from the powder coater and I will be all set to go. I also wanted to install a period steering damper like Dunstall offered.

I couldn't find any old SUN dampers like the one in the picture so I looked for old bikes that used a similar style damper. The Moto Guzzi V7 used a similar damper. The only places I could find replacements were in Europe. I ordered this from Stein Dinse http://www.stein-dinse.com/ The shipping was more expensive than the damper.

The mount holes were a little large so I cut some brass tube to take up the slop. 11/32 tube by .75"

I used a 1.1/4" muffler clamp for the frame mount and a bent stud for the lower tree mount. The original SUN damper had ball ends and could wobble to fit. I had to get my set-up to line up and not bind.

Once everything was lined up the damper slid right on. I used a spacer that I ground on an angle to get the damper to sit true on the stud.

I realize the muffler clamp isn't the most elegant solution but I was trying to replicate a period damper and that's what Dunstall used. With that said the muffler clamp is rock solid and does work well.

Scott

Rookster · « **Reply #58 on:** July 18, 2011, 02:47:21 PM »

Got the paint back today.

Went for a short blast around the block and it ran great. I'm still waiting for the extra caliper to come back from powder coating.

Thanks for looking
Scott

DME · « **Reply #59 on:** July 18, 2011, 03:05:03 PM »

Congrats on a very nice bike! Turned out really nice

/Dan

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #60 on:** July 18, 2011, 04:46:27 PM »

That came out great Scott. One thing i would change would be the 16 inch rear for an 18.....

Very nice...

Rookster · « **Reply #61 on:** July 18, 2011, 07:35:37 PM »

Thanks guys. I can't wait to really put some miles on it this year.

Scott

bill440cars · « **Reply #62 on:** July 18, 2011, 08:15:13 PM »

Whoa! That IS one FINE Looking Example Alright!

Great Job there!

Speed King · « **Reply #63 on:** July 19, 2011, 07:38:10 AM »

Man...congrats on a great job.

Rookster · « **Reply #64 on:** July 20, 2011, 05:23:12 PM »

Thanks for the kind words.

The extra caliper came back from powder coating and I finished the dual disk setup yesterday. Dual disks with the Lester wheel are a little different than the stock hub. The Lesters don't have flats on the hub so you can't do the usual speedo drive modification. Instead I had the back of the extra disk machined to hold the speedo drive.

The early bikes have the C type caliper bracket that needs to be modified for the dual disk. I used 1/2" spacers on the top 2 mounts and I had to remove material from the lower mount.

I used a new Honda brake line and bent it to fit the other fork leg. The soft line is a braided stainless line from Slingshot Cycles (forum name Pompadori) and a double banjo bolt with 3 coppper washers.

I had the extra caliper powder coated gloss black to match the other one. I used a new stainless piston, new OEM bolts, and bleed screw.

My goal was to get the extra caliper to look as stock as possible and match the other side. I did remove the caliper bracket screws and springs and just let the calipers float. The master cylinder is the stock one and I may change it out for a GL1000 master but I wanted to see how much feel the stocker gave me first.

Thanks for looking.
Scott

scottly · « **Reply #65 on:** July 20, 2011, 08:21:37 PM »

Wow! Looks great! BOTM material!

Greggo · « **Reply #66 on:** August 04, 2011, 02:09:42 PM »

You sir, have been nominated.

onagd · « **Reply #67 on:** August 04, 2011, 02:28:15 PM »

Looks great. Had one in the same colour as an 18yrs old back in the day. Could not get Dunstall pipes at the time so had a set of Peter Allen pipes which had a cross over between No.1 and No.4 cylinder(that is the no 1 header pipe crossed over the front of 2 & 3 and went down to the muffler on the right. 2&3 went to muffler on the left.
It was a great bike to ride and drew a lot of attention. Gret job, well done.
Brett

andy750 · « **Reply #68 on:** August 05, 2011, 04:48:25 AM »

Great job well done Scott! Bike looks great!

cheers
Andy

voxonda · « **Reply #69 on:** August 06, 2011, 04:08:38 AM »

+1 on that! Great job, well done. Really like the 'old skool' look. Great.

Cheers, Rob

fishhead · « **Reply #70 on:** August 06, 2011, 05:22:47 AM »

The bike looks good!!

If you do go with the GL 1000 master cylinder(11/16 inch), get the reservoir off the GL 1000 rear master cylinder as it is more compact and just looks better.

Personally, I would go with a 5/8 master cylinder as the GL master gives a "wooden" feel to the brakes (JMO).

Kanticoy · « **Reply #71 on:** August 06, 2011, 09:48:03 AM »

I love the bike. One day I would love to see you get the lowers painted and fitted. I think it adds that 70's futuristic look to the bike. Love it naked too though! Outstanding work.

Rookster · « **Reply #72 on:** August 06, 2011, 03:59:08 PM »

Thanks for the kind words everyone.

Fishead: Is the F model master cylinder 5/8? Those early F model ones look exactly like the K ones correct? For this summer I am sticking with the stock master cylinder. It gives reall good feel on the dual disks but if I pull hard on the lever I can get all the way to the grip.

Kanticoy: Me too. My painter is going to do the lowers over the winter but I don't know how often I'll use them. They block access to the petcock, key, and idle screw. They are completely impractical but they give the bike a whole different look.

With the Dunstall rearsets the back brake is completely useless. Over the winter I am going to be doing a "period" rear disk conversion. I got ahold of part of an old Hurst Airheart conversion. Someone chromed it at some point which has to be removed before I can rebuild the caliper and master cylinder. Airheart still carries the rebuild kits.

HurstAirheartChrome by Scott Rook, on Flickr

I have a few options for the rear disk:

Get an F model Lester wheel for the rear and have a 10" disk made or get one that has the same 6 bolt pattern.

Get another 19" Lester front wheel and do the front to rear wheel conversion. Again I have to get a 10" disk with the 6 bolt pattern.

Use the rear wheel that I have with the CycleX rear disk conversion but only use the disk and disk carrier with the vintage Airheart components.

Scott

fishhead · « **Reply #73 on:** August 07, 2011, 06:58:52 AM »

Quote from: Rookster on August 06, 2011, 03:59:08 PM

Thanks for the kind words everyone.

Fishhead: Is the F model master cylinder 5/8? Those early F model ones look exactly like the K ones correct? For this summer I am sticking with the stock master cylinder. It gives real good feel on the dual disks but if I pull hard on the lever I can get all the way to the grip.

I'm not sure about the F master cylinder's bore size.
Dog leg levers may give you a little more pull with out bottoming out on the grip (with the stock master cylinder).

The Hurst rear caliper set up is nice. It is a single piston design and the axle pivot is free floating/sliding. The free floating axle design is also its Achilles heel because if it is too loose or too tight, the assembly can get cocked(when the brake is applied) and not release (lock up). Make sure the pivot is clean and tight (but not too tight or loose).

The go-cart people usually have a lot of rebuild stuff for the old Hurst stuff and are usually cheaper than the MC people.

Here's 2 pics of the Hurst caliper set up. It uses the stock brake stay mount (on the swing arm) and is under slung.
The 3rd pic is of a "similar" Grimeca 2 piston caliper set up. They both used the same diameter discs, but were attached to the wheel differently. The Grimeca unit doesn't have the sliding axle mount and was less likely to lock (twist when applied).It also used the stock brake stay mount. All pics are shown an a Shelby-Dowd wheel.

My rear set plates are actually for a CB 550 and gave me a place to mount the rear master cylinder.

jaguar · « **Reply #74 on:** August 07, 2011, 08:58:29 PM »

one good looking bike you built there

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Author Topic: My Dunstall CB750 (Read 51599 times)

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