What do you mean my video isn't entertaining?
Here is a link to my post with the vid.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=55569.msg598355#msg598355Don't expect to see much turning of the screw when the adjustment happens. The tensioner only takes up small amounts of slack and the peg will only turn only a couple of degrees when you loosen the nut and pull the screw driver away... and I mean really maybe 3 degrees counterclockwise. Depending on how loose your chain is of course. Turning the screw clockwise disengages the tensioner all together and you will feel a springy resistance when that happens. Locking it with the nut in that position is used for removing the tensioner out of the motor, or for removing your cam. Don't turn it past the point where it resists and stops. You run the risk of stripping the cam gear, or skipping it out of sync with the tensioner's rail and messing up the mechanism. If that happens, you would have a hard time removing the cam etc etc. a.k.a. not good and a new tensioner costs $120. It can be replaced without taking the whole motor apart, but does involve pretty much removing the motor from the frame as you have to tilt it to the side b/c of top frame tube clearance, but that's a whole other issue. Here...
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=55888.msg602023#msg602023Spraying the tensioner peg with penetrating fluid might help if it is stuck between the case of the motor, but I'm not sure that is likely to happen. It can't really rust to the aluminum block and I think the peg is stainless (not sure). You could try to carefully pull out the little o-ring from the peg and then spray, but it will likely do nothing beyond that point. The tensioner should receive lube from the engine oil circulating with your chain and down the block's tunnel. If you can turn the peg, it is unlikely that the problem is there.
Technically, turning the peg all the way clockwise will disengage the tensioner and releasing it "should" return the shoe to a point where it takes up the slack again if it is working properly and there is slack, like at 15 degrees past TDC. (the Honda Service manual outlines it well). In the FAQ section, you will find that there are several other methods.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=369.msg3328#msg3328 The while running (which I think due to the vibration of the chain might rattle a stuck tensioner loose), or the "mechanical spider" method.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=369.msg315851#msg315851I also wouldn't force the tensioner peg counterclockwise with the screwdriver (tensioning side). The spring mounted on the tensioner should pull the shoe into it's proper position (again when there is slack in the chain) automatically. Forcing it beyond that point, you run the risk of overtightening the shoe, which will result in the chain grinding a groove into the rubber and wearing the tensioner out prematurely. In the event that the tensioner isn't tightening because the shoe will not slide in the tensioner's tracks then I think the best thing would be to pull it out of the motor and get it moving, or at that point, might as well replace it. Whatever you do, make sure you don't break the tensioner peg. That would make things very difficult. Also, you can tell that your tensioner isn't working by the amount cam chain noise. If you only hear a little bit of noise, you should be ok.
Hope this helps... good luck on your cam chain tensioner adventures.
