Topic: CB550 wiring issue after battery relocation

[Laminar]

So tonight I finally wired up my battery in its new location:



and the electrical panel has been moved to directly under the seat:



My problem is that not all of the electrical stuff works now. I have a headlight, turn signals, tail/brake light, but that's it. No neutral light, no oil light, no starter, no power to the coils, etc.

I visually inspected my fuses, and I put my multimeter across them and they all checked out. I disconnected and reconnected each electrical plug in the panel to no avail. I'm sure there's something simple I'm missing, but I can't see it.

Everything was in working order before I pulled it out. The only wires I changed were the + and - leads from the battery. I replaced them with 4 gauge wire. My multimeter reads 0.5 ohm between the negative terminal and the valve cover. I suppose I should have measured that beforehand so I could get a good comparison.

What could I have messed up by pulling the wiring to the panel and reconnecting it? I have mostly new connectors there, all of which have been cleaned and packed with dielectric grease.

I un-mounted the panel and let it hang loose:



Thoughts? Suggestions?

[Spanner 1]

Need to remove the fuses to test them with a meter....also tap the solenoid with the handle of a screwdriver....

[Laminar]

Need to remove the fuses to test them with a meter

I did.

....also tap the solenoid with the handle of a screwdriver....

Tried it. No change. If I short the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver it will crank, but won't fire. Still no power to the coils/neutral light, etc.

[scunny]

all those components go to a relay that has a direct connection to your voltage regulator. they pass thru what looks to be an eight wire connector

[Laminar]

Well this sucks. I pulled apart and inspected every knife in every connector. I found a couple that were loose and fixed or replaced them, but no change.

I pulled out and re-tested each fuse. All good.

I then decided to pull out each fuse and turn the power on to narrow it down to a specific circuit. I was just about ready to pull the main fuse when the loose electric panel shifted and the bottom fuse knife touched the frame. The fuse immediately blew, but because it was the exposed knife touching the frame, the wiring immediately started burning and pouring out smoke from everywhere. I managed to unhook the battery as quick as I could, but now I have a bunch of wiring to replace, and I won't even know if it was replaced correctly since nothing works like it should right now.

I was really hoping to drive it to my new place tomorrow, but it looks like it will have to be hauled.

Needless to say, I'm ditching the stupid glass fuse block and getting a modern one that won't start my bike on fire.

[Toxic]

I believe that whole panel is normally grounded to the frame via the mounting bolts.

the bolts that mount it to the battery box provide a ground.

Check it out as electrickery is not my best forte.

[Laminar]

The panel is specifically electrically isolated from the rest of the bike by the rubber grommets in the two mounting holes. It doesn't attach to the battery box at all. I'm not sure what you're saying.

[Laminar]

Here's the aftermath. I'm pretty pissed, as those were brand new Oregon Motorcycle Parts connectors.








Also, the fuse never blew. I guess the power didn't have to go through the fuse, it was bypassed completely.

[bryanj]

Those fuses are too long and donr have enough contact to work properly, probably wont fix your problem but is a future one

[Laminar]

Those fuses are too long and donr have enough contact to work properly, probably wont fix your problem but is a future one

.....

Needless to say, I'm ditching the stupid glass fuse block and getting a modern one that won't start my bike on fire.