Topic: Need Some Advice On Rear Weel Bearing Removal 1978 750K

[BobbyR]

I need to replace my rear wheel bearing after an incident I will chronicle in a trip report. I simply cooked the bearings due to a dragging brake. It got hot enough to melt the cush rubbers. I read everything I could find on here so I was able to get the retainer off pretty easily.

OK I have the retainer off and peering inside I see what I take to be the lips of left and right bearings. I see what I take to be a some sort of long spacer. I probed the gap with a dental pick, I could not get it very deep between the bearing and what I believe is a spacer. I have the Honda Shop Manual and on this procedure it tells me nothing.

The question is how to I get the bearings out of there? I see talk about using a punch to drift it out, but what am I punching against? The gap between the spacer and the bearing is flush.

If and when I get all this sorted out, when I screw retainer back in, do I spike it again or do I use Loctite? I have access to all types of Loctite.

Thanks,
Bobby

[bwaller]

That spacer has three "legs" on each end to locate it. If you pry it towards one side you should be able to get your drift against the inner bearing race. When you reinstall just make sure to straighten the spacer legs.

[BobbyR]

What would you suggest I use to drift out the bearing?

[Johnie]

Bobby...here is a pic of the spacer and the ears you will be moving.  I just used my drift (long punch) to push the spacer over.  It will bend those ears a bit on the spacer, but just bend them back when you put it back in.  You will then have enough of the bearing to place that flat on and work your way around a bit at a time.  Depending on how hot that got will determine how hard you will have to smack it out of there.  I would not use Locktite, just spike it again.  

[noisebomb]

I just recently did this to my Comstars.  For a drift, I used the old bolt that held the stock footpegs on, as it was slightly bent.  Worked like a charm.

[bwaller]

I have a long piece of 3/8" rod.

[BobbyR]

Thanks guys, U have given me the balls to more forward.

[Gorms]

Ya after I pried hard, one or two of the spacer legs bent and the spacer moved aside quite a bit.  I got a 4 ft length of steel rod from Ace hardware and cut it to 1 ft.  With the spacer aside, I put it on the lip of one of the bearings from the opposite side and started banging.  Once it starts to move a bit, its easy to "walk" the bearing out by banging on each side.  Good luck, this forum was a big help when it came to getting mine out.

[BobbyR]

I know it is a great resource, i searched for a few hours but I did not find what u guys gave me in a few posts. Now there is alos a bearing on the sprocket hub I guess I need to get that one also.

[noisebomb]

Yeah, there are three bearings in the rear wheel.  The retainer on the sprocket hub can be a real !@#&$!  I learned on this forum that you gotta drill the stakes out first, and it is a lot easier to remove.

[Johnie]

I know it is a great resource, i searched for a few hours but I did not find what u guys gave me in a few posts. Now there is alos a bearing on the sprocket hub I guess I need to get that one also.

Yah, I changed all 3 so I knew they were all good.  Then it was so much fun I did the front 2 also...

[BobbyR]

I did drill out the stakes on the hub, once I realized u gotta get them deep enough, a few taps and she loosed up. The sproket hub has holes so I will need a tool. I will get some bearings from Z1 since i am not sure of the size

[Johnie]

I did drill out the stakes on the hub, once I realized u gotta get them deep enough, a few taps and she loosed up. The sproket hub has holes so I will need a tool. I will get some bearings from Z1 since i am not sure of the size

Once I got the bearings out I just took them into my local bearing supplier.  He matched the numbers and had then in stock.  Make sure you get the sealed bearings.  I do not believe they had them in the early 70's.

[stresssolutions]

I know it is a great resource, i searched for a few hours but I did not find what u guys gave me in a few posts. Now there is alos a bearing on the sprocket hub I guess I need to get that one also.

Yah, I changed all 3 so I knew they were all good.  Then it was so much fun I did the front 2 also...

+1 but I did it in reverse order.

[sdmsc]

I picked up a completely unrestored (and mostly unmaintaned, but low-mileage) 1978 750F a few months back.  Last weekend I adjusted the chain, and while I was at it had the rear wheel off to clean it up some.  Not sure if it was my fault, but one of the bearings completely came apart on my riding to work yesterday.  Assuming I'd mucked up the chain setup somehow, I fussed with that for hours last night.  Finally I took the axle shaft out again, with unusual difficulty, to find a bunch loose balls and sheet metal where the right bearing used to be.  Glad I found this thread today, because I wasn't sure how to start...  I may be back with pics and questions!

[MCRider]

I picked up a completely unrestored (and mostly unmaintaned, but low-mileage) 1978 750F a few months back.  Last weekend I adjusted the chain, and while I was at it had the rear wheel off to clean it up some.  Not sure if it was my fault, but one of the bearings completely came apart on my riding to work yesterday.  Assuming I'd mucked up the chain setup somehow, I fussed with that for hours last night.  Finally I took the axle shaft out again, with unusual difficulty, to find a bunch loose balls and sheet metal where the right bearing used to be.  Glad I found this thread today, because I wasn't sure how to start...  I may be back with pics and questions!

There comes a point in a machine's life where mileage doesn't matter as much as age. Those bearings were only sealed on one side from the factory. Multiple condensation cycles, temperature changing from the passing of seasons, puts moisture in there and things fall apart, as you've noticed.

Same for crankcases (bearings, rings), fork tubes (internally), spoke nipples, etc.

That's why any of you buying old bikes, don't put much stock in low mileage.

[mystic_1]

Wheel bearings are always near the top of my list whenever starting in on a new bike project.  You just never know what shape they're in, and they're not overly expensive.  Good time to do bearings is when you replace the old dry rotted tires. 

mystic_1

[MCRider]

Wheel bearings are always near the top of my list whenever starting in on a new bike project.  You just never know what shape they're in, and they're not overly expensive.  Good time to do bearings is when you replace the old dry rotted tires.  

mystic_1

And we can replace them with double sealed bearings which should last longer both in terms of mileage and age. (I think)

[BobbyR]

To end my part of this thread I got the job done, it was easier than I expected, I learned a lot in the process. I should have done this years ago. I needed a crisis to get me off my ass.