Author Topic: Will this rectifier work? It will!! (Limited supply available!) (Read 7043 times)

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **on:** August 10, 2009, 04:34:45 PM »

**** These turned out to be really nice, high quality units. I went ahead and bought 6 more and will sell them to forum members at a no profit margin. Just respond or PM if you want one. Limited supply!***

Trying to source a replacement rectifier for the CB550. I know squat about electronics other than the 'electricity is like water' speech my Grandpa confused me with years ago.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=330351192937&Category=73142&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2

3 Phase, seems to have the terminals you'd need (3 AC, 1 -, 1+). It's threaded, so you could use ring connectors on the end of your old harness.

Not sure about the amperage (100, too much?) or the blocking diode stuff. School me!

GammaFlat · « **Reply #1 on:** August 10, 2009, 04:36:55 PM »

You need 2 of these... and you'll use half of the second one.

+ on both go together, - on both go together, yellows (3 of 'em) go to AC, AC and AC

I think PinHead has a good write-up/diagram on the forum here. It suddenly becomes easy in your head and you'll wonder why it didn't make sense.

Essentially, you are taking 3 phases from your alternator (which makes AC instead of DC). The rectifier is just a "diamond" or "square" of diodes chasing each other. The rectifiers (if configured correctly) output DC and stop the "alternating" part.

Hmmm. as I look at the picture, this thing may be all you need. There are 3 AC posts which is a bit unusual for a rectifier...

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **Reply #2 on:** August 10, 2009, 04:48:14 PM »

That's why I was looking at this unit, I think I've seen pinheads diagram before. Didn't it have 2 rectifiers with 4 posts each? If you have one with 5, 3ac & -/+, shouldn't that be all you'd need?

Alan F. · « **Reply #3 on:** August 10, 2009, 04:52:28 PM »

Yeah that'll do the trick, 3 phase rectifiers aren't as common, but they're out there. Just remember to use a good heatsink and a dab of compound.
-Alan

TwoTired · « **Reply #4 on:** August 10, 2009, 05:50:33 PM »

Don't see why it wouldn't work. Three alternator yellows to the AC terminals. Honda Red to the +, Honda Green to the minus.
100 Amps is far more that you need. If you screw up battery polarity or the wiring, the wiring will all melt into a puddle before you can damage the rectifier. (probably)

You can find the spec sheet here:
http://www.thomasnet.com/advsearch.html?cov=NA&which=prod&what=2&cid=420622&navsec=profile&advwhat=pot100-01

You won't even need much of a heat sink. It doesn't derate below 20 A until it gets to about 130 C. (266F)

If you are the type that worries about damage to your vehicle during commute even if you are driving an Abrams tank, then get a big heat sink for this rectifier. But really, you can probably run the starter motor off this rectifier if the alternator could provide that kind of amperage. (But, that wouldn't be conservative use for the part, really...Even with a heat sink.)

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **Reply #5 on:** August 10, 2009, 09:43:44 PM »

Got the OK from TT, good enough for me.

Thanks guys, I'll be the guinea pig on this one and report back.

On a related note, will the compound be sufficient to hold the heatsink to the rectifier or will it need to be attatched more securly?

TwoTired · « **Reply #6 on:** August 10, 2009, 10:06:28 PM »

There are heat sink mounting tapes that are thermally conductive. I'd be leery of relying on this (and certainly NOT silicon grease) for mechanical retention in the vibration/shock environment of a motorcycle. Screws/bolts are far more reassuring. Don't need high torque retention, tough. Just something to hold it, and the attached wires, in a place you wish them to reside on the machine.

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **Reply #7 on:** August 10, 2009, 10:12:20 PM »

Hmmm, so we're talking mechanical connection. IE, drilling a hole in the sink and screwing it directly into the body of the rectifier? I think I just asked a dumb question...

TwoTired · « **Reply #8 on:** August 11, 2009, 03:21:53 AM »

You'll need two holes to mount that referenced rectifier. You don't drill into the rectifier, buddy. That is, if you want it to still function. There are two U shaped indentations at each end of the Rect. where bolts/screws go.

If you are drill phobic, you could JB weld the rect. to the heat sink. I can't tell from the spec sheet if the mounting surface is common with one of the terminals. You'll have to measure that when you get a sample. If so, you may have to deal with isolation issues, depending on which terminal it is connected to.

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **Reply #9 on:** August 11, 2009, 06:02:15 PM »

Ok, the unit is on it's way. I have some ideas on mounting the unit to the panel and am looking at heatsinks right now, I'll need you to show me how to see if the rec. body is common to one of the terminals.

TwoTired · « **Reply #10 on:** August 11, 2009, 06:49:27 PM »

Quote from: B.O.X.N.I.F.E. on August 11, 2009, 06:02:15 PM

Ok, the unit is on it's way. I have some ideas on mounting the unit to the panel and am looking at heatsinks right now, I'll need you to show me how to see if the rec. body is common to one of the terminals.

Sure, you need an ohmmeter, one of the functions commonly found on a DMM.

Select the lowest ohms scale. Note the reading when the probe tips are touched together. Now put one probe on the big slab at the base. Then place the other probe on each of the terminals on the other side in turn. If there is an internal connection, the meter scale will show something similar to when you placed the two probe tips together. If this occurs, whatever terminal made the meter spike is connected to the big base plate. IF it's the Minus terminal, you have little to worry about. If it is any other terminal you will have to insulate the device mounting. (I would probably isolate it anyway, actually, just to control current flows through harness wires.)

Pinhead · « **Reply #11 on:** August 11, 2009, 07:22:49 PM »

Looks perfect for the alternator. You got it for a good price, too!

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **Reply #12 on:** August 12, 2009, 03:49:25 PM »

Quote from: Pinhead on August 11, 2009, 07:22:49 PM

Looks perfect for the alternator. You got it for a good price, too!

He says he had more than 20 of them, if it works I may try to buy up a few or pass his contact info along to you guys.

Hey TT, he sent me this in an email, does this indicate whether or not any terminal is common to the housing?

TwoTired · « **Reply #13 on:** August 12, 2009, 04:44:04 PM »

The drawing doesn't show a case connection. But, it doesn't look like a manufacturer drawing, either.

The drawing details are kindly described as "amature".
Connection dots on the right, even in corners where not needed. No connection dots on the left at all.

Maybe I'm too critical. But, I've seen my share of "smoke and flame" projects. Some were even my own.

A misplaced connection dot can be quite spectacular in power circuits.

Smoke filled labs are not nearly so posh as smoke filled rooms. But, it wasn't me who made the fire alarm set off.

mlinder · « **Reply #14 on:** August 12, 2009, 05:31:54 PM »

Get some arctic silver thermal epoxy. Little pricey, but plenty strong to hold a heatsink on, and very good thermal exchange properties.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100005

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **Reply #15 on:** August 15, 2009, 12:03:34 PM »

Quote from: TwoTired on August 11, 2009, 06:49:27 PM

Quote from: B.O.X.N.I.F.E. on August 11, 2009, 06:02:15 PM
Ok, the unit is on it's way. I have some ideas on mounting the unit to the panel and am looking at heatsinks right now, I'll need you to show me how to see if the rec. body is common to one of the terminals.
Sure, you need an ohmmeter, one of the functions commonly found on a DMM.

Select the lowest ohms scale. Note the reading when the probe tips are touched together. Now put one probe on the big slab at the base. Then place the other probe on each of the terminals on the other side in turn. If there is an internal connection, the meter scale will show something similar to when you placed the two probe tips together. If this occurs, whatever terminal made the meter spike is connected to the big base plate. IF it's the Minus terminal, you have little to worry about. If it is any other terminal you will have to insulate the device mounting. (I would probably isolate it anyway, actually, just to control current flows through harness wires.)

Got it today, body or aluminum cooling plate are not common to any terminal.

This unit is nice. Judging by the box it's NOS. I looked and I believe this unit sells for 60 - 80$ new from an electronics supplier. It measures about 2"x1.5"x1". Heavy duty with the bolt terminals all epoxied in. The other side of the unit has a nice aluminum plate for the heat sink.

Any interest from the group in one of these? I'd be willing to buy 5 or 10 from him and ship them out at no profit, would be about 12$ - 15$ shipped. There'd be a small amount of DIY required, but much less than the rectifier post by Evo7 and I think it'd be a much nicer, more robust unit. I'm stoked on mine.

the architect · « **Reply #16 on:** August 15, 2009, 12:22:12 PM »

I'd be up for one! I'm about to custom re-wire my entire bike and have been looking for a good replacement rectifier.

If you buy up a handful, you can definitely count me in for one.

bryanj · « **Reply #17 on:** August 15, 2009, 04:07:45 PM »

I tried to get him to send to UK but no chance so I'd be up for 3 or 4 for this side of the pond

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **Reply #18 on:** August 15, 2009, 07:29:17 PM »

Alrighty, I just bought 6.

If you want one call dibs. Price will be 15$, shipped USPS Priority Mail. That should break me even with maybe a buck profit.

I had seen similar units, but finally found the exact one online. 119$! This unit will make the other DIY rectifiers (ala Evo7) look fragile in comparison.

http://www.sourceresearch.com/store1/quickstore.cfm?ProductID=37290&do=detail

bryanj, you have a PM.

I WILL ship them to you international guys. Shipping will obviously be more, PM me your address and I can get a quote at the post office for you.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #19 on:** August 15, 2009, 07:35:57 PM »

PM Sent.

mystic_1

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **Reply #20 on:** August 15, 2009, 07:50:34 PM »

Quote from: mystic_1 on August 15, 2009, 07:35:57 PM

PM Sent.

mystic_1

PM sent!

Ok, I'm already getting a bunch of interest, I think I ordered too few. If you want one let me know by tomorrow afternoon (Sunday!!). I messaged him and told him to hold off on boxing up my order as I will probably need to add a couple more.

I don't want to order from him a bunch of times, he'll get wise to the whole thing and start charging more. Sunday deadline!

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **Reply #21 on:** August 16, 2009, 11:36:26 AM »

As of right now they are all spoken for. If you want one, and it's about 1:30 central time Sunday, I gotta know by this evening at the latest.

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **Reply #22 on:** August 23, 2009, 02:25:38 PM »

Got them yesterday (Saturday) everyone that has paid will get them shipped tomorrow. Bryanj, I'll have your quote tomorrow afternoon. Thanks guys.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #23 on:** August 23, 2009, 06:47:45 PM »

Sweet.

mystic_1

CrescentSon · « **Reply #24 on:** August 23, 2009, 07:26:51 PM »

Darn... Day late, dollar short. Any info on the supplier by any chance?

News:

Author Topic: Will this rectifier work? It will!! (Limited supply available!) (Read 7043 times)