Author Topic: Anodizing master cylinder  (Read 5425 times)

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Offline martini

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Anodizing master cylinder
« on: August 13, 2009, 09:26:42 AM »
Hi all,

I'm thinking of re-anodizing my master cylinder. Any reason not to? Any other suggestions for re-finishing it to black?

thanks in advance

Offline Popwood

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2009, 07:04:41 PM »
I caught just a part of the "rebuilding a sandcast 750" lecture at the recent Vintage Motorcycle Days. I seem to recall the process, while not complicated, is a bit involved. Something about getting the original finish stripped, then working on the surface, then back to the anodizer for the new finish. Sorry I can't be more specific. Anybody else know about this? If so, would be great to get some good info in FAQs about it. Doesn't come up much but my anodized parts could use some work as they are faded.
I also recall the presenter making a strong suggestion to have the original cylinder rebored and replaced with a brass one pressed in for very long life.
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Offline martini

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2009, 07:38:42 PM »
thanks

Offline mcuozzo

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2009, 04:49:14 AM »
Are you trying to match the original finish exactly or just trying to get it to look better?  If you are not trying to match the original finish you could have the part powder coated. 

Do you have a picture of the part?  I could tell you how hard it would be to have it blasted and/or powder coated.

Where are you located?  I'm thinking about offering this type of service to SOHC forum members.  Pricing is difficult since the shipping will probably add too much for most people.

I think powder coating is a little more durable than anodizing, for what it's worth.

Also you can get anodizing kits at caswell.  http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/index.html

Good luck!

Offline Celco

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2009, 08:11:12 AM »
I had my own personal anodizing set up in my basement, so ill give you a little bit of the process I used. 

First I must say, Caswell is a awesome place to get supplies.

_______________________________________________
Anyways, the striping process involved first cleaning the part very well and removing any non-aluminum parts.  So all your bolts/nuts, seals, o-rings, and springs.  Next (unsure of the time you keep the part in the tank) but you dip the part into a Lye solution.  You can buy this as Red Devil drain cleaner.  This will literally eat away the finish.  But be careful, dunked in the tank for too long will lead to pitting and possible part disintegration (it would take a long time, but it could happen).  You just want to keep it in there long enough for the hardened anodizing surface to be effected. 

After this bath rinse the part off thoroughly and get ready for the actual anodizing process.  Wrap or hang the part from wire (i used some aluminum welding sticks my dad took from work) and hang from a cross bar in the tank.  Set up your anode and cathode from the acid tank and hook up your leads.  Depending on part size and HCl:water ratio you will keep the part in the actual anodizing tank for given time (usually 1-1.5 hours).  Sit back and watch the bubbles. Note*: Do not submerge anything that is not aluminum, I threaded a steel bolt to hang a part from once and the acid ate right through the bolt while it was in the tank. 

Next step is coloring.  Have your dye dip ready and at the right temperature (I think it was somewhere around 140F). Rinse the part with COLD water and dip into the dye tank.  After simmering in the dye for the amount of time (longer the darker... to a point) time to cure.  You could steam bath the part or boil the part.  I boiled because I never had a big enough pot for steaming.  All you need to do now is to rinse the part off with cold water and enjoy. 
_________________________________________

This process was done on 6061 aluminum parts that I had made on the bridgeport or the lathe.  I know you can use it on different series of Al but you probably have to use different times or ratios to get the desired look.  If you have a little bit of space and money to try it out, and some old pots that mom or the wife won't kill you for using, it is a great little skill to have and an awesome tool to keep your things looking fresh.  Id say the most expensive thing is the dye, if you already have a manual battery charger.  But even if you are looking to harden your aluminum surfaces with anodizing you can always leave it "clear".


Offline 754

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2009, 08:15:32 AM »
Thanks for that info..
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Offline AshimotoK0

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2009, 08:28:05 AM »
The Sandcast guys I talked to heated both the casting and PJ1 satin paint to 70 degrees C and they sprayed the part. They then bake in an oven (will check temperature) and then lightly polish with Solvol Autosol to give the correct anodized look. I reckon powdercoating would look too 'thick' compared with anodizing and they agreed. I am not sure if this method originated from UK CB750 guru John Wyatt and not sure if you have PJ1 or Solvol in the US.
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Offline 754

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2009, 08:41:57 AM »
Any deviation from original finish, should & probably will, cost you points at a judged meet..

 So here is somone telling you  how to refinish, using ORIGINAL process..

 I dont know about everyone else, but I certainly Appreciate it.
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline SWEETPEAUK

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #8 on: September 14, 2009, 09:39:52 AM »
I had my 400/4 ali parts redone check out this thread for pictures of the process
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=23772.msg243971#msg243971


Offline babyfood1217

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2009, 01:50:00 PM »
Cast aluminum, whether die cast (controls) or sand cast (old cases) do not anodize well.  The grain structure is different than that of a forged/machined billet piece, and you will get a mottled or speckled surface.  Go for PC.

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Offline Bob Wessner

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2009, 03:12:54 PM »
Cast aluminum, whether die cast (controls) or sand cast (old cases) do not anodize well.  The grain structure is different than that of a forged/machined billet piece, and you will get a mottled or speckled surface.  Go for PC.

-Chris

I can vouch for this. I had one done and the finish is not like the original. I wonder how they did it originally? I will probably still use it at some point, it still looks better than the faded bronze look of the one on there now.
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Offline Gorms

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2009, 03:32:02 PM »
I polished mine. Stripped the anodizing with oven cleaner then polished with a wheel. Looks great.

Offline 754

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #12 on: September 15, 2009, 09:52:01 PM »
I believe the master cyl body is a forging, not diecast or billet. If you dont get ALL the original anodizing off, you will not get a good result.

 It may help to mention to the anodizers WHEN it was done..process may have changed..


 I know Chroming has been EPA regged into a whole different deal, than it once was..
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline SohRon

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #13 on: September 15, 2009, 11:56:14 PM »
Here's five coats of fluid-proof  paint -- sanded between each coat. I spilled some brake fluid on this and it wiped up like water. Cap came from E-bay. Not strictly stock, but better than faded anodizing, IMHO.

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Assembling my '74 CB550: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=86697.0
Assembly of the Right-hand Switch (a rebuilder's guide):  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=80532.0
Installing stock 4X4 exhaust: CB500-CB550 K: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=82323.0
CB550 Assembly Manual: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,151576.0.html

Offline Bob Wessner

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #14 on: September 16, 2009, 03:53:31 AM »
What paint did you use?
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Offline AshimotoK0

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #15 on: September 16, 2009, 05:02:47 AM »
Going back to my original reply on this one - If you saw the Sandcast that the guy who suggested the paint  method  to me has restored,  you would have no hesitation in using this method too, as an alternative to anodizing. He is a UK guy and his Sandcast (obviously originally from the US) can only be described as superb. John Wyatt also uses this method I believe and his restored bikes are superb too! After all he wrote the definitive guide to restoration (until Hondamans book is published)
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Offline SohRon

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Re: Anodizing master cylinder
« Reply #16 on: September 16, 2009, 10:05:16 PM »
Quote
What paint did you use?

I used VHT Brake, Caliper. Drum & Rotor paint. Very tough when dry; has to be baked for a full cure. I followed a recommendation from a friend and baked it for one hour at 250 degrees F with excellent results. I'll admit I went overboard with so many coats, But I wanted to make sure the M.C. stayed nice and black for a good long time.

I also understand that most epoxy paints are fluid resistant. And, of course, there's always Por-15.
« Last Edit: September 16, 2009, 10:10:04 PM by SohRon »
"He slipped back down the alley with some roly-poly little bat-faced girl..."

Assembling my '74 CB550: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=86697.0
Assembly of the Right-hand Switch (a rebuilder's guide):  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=80532.0
Installing stock 4X4 exhaust: CB500-CB550 K: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=82323.0
CB550 Assembly Manual: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,151576.0.html