Topic: Rebirth of paulages' cb735

[paulages]

Great bike Paul.

You've made some changes, so how's the fit Paul?  No chance of grinding the pegs for sure. 

Did you ever find out what spring (or shim) your man used in the pump?

i'd rides like a champ, though the forks are begging for progressive springs. should have them in this weekend. it's funny, because with the old chassis i couldn't exactly tell what i didn't like about the suspension, but now i think i know exactly: the springs are too soft, and i have too much damping in an attempt to compensate (which doesn't really work of course). once i get the progressives in, i'll dial the emulators back a bit and go from there. i still want to weld a rod to the top of it and go through the top of the fork caps with it, so the damping can be adjusted as needed. that said, it tracts so nicely. i have a couple oil leaks to hunt down (maybe those stupid rubber pucks in the valve cover) and other small glitches, but it runs and rides great.

about the oil pump: the only way i think i can find out what spring is in there is to get a fishing scale to measure the difference in tension. someone should experiment with simple shimming if i don't get to it first. it is really nice to have 30PSI at idle and 70 under load, though it probably doesn't help with keeping the oil in the engine...

[Retro Rocket]

Excuse me if its already mentioned but what color are you painting this beauty.?

Mick

[paulages]

Excuse me if its already mentioned but what color are you painting this beauty.?

Mick

I'm not.. the seatpan is aluminum, and the steel tank will be re-brushed and clearcoated.

[paulages]

ride report time!

been riding it for a bit now, and though i have some things to dial in, it feels light years ahead of the last bike.

i mentioned in another thread that the clutch wasn't slipping with the stock springs, but i've been getting weird little surges at high RPMs... not quite like slip i've encountered before, but i still think that's what it is. it just jumps RPMs for a second or so and then catches again. it's hard to describe, but i'll put the HD springs back in and see if it fixes the problem.

the chassis is fantastic, but i still need to dial in the front end. man, it really goes exactly where i want it to, and the tires just hold great when i really lean it over. before i felt like i didn't have total confidence in the road-holding abilities of the bike when i was leaning in a turn hard.

once i get it dialed in and the rain comes, i'll work on details... a proper fairing frame, some paint/clearcoat on the tank, etc. it's making me really happy though. oh yeah, it wheelies really easy in first or second now that the forks have nice stiff springs in them. it surprises me a lot when i'm pulling out of a turn and the front end gets light. nice but frightening feeling...

[Hush]

Sleek lines, uncluttered, as Kit said.....bluddy georgous.

[paulages]

Sleek lines, uncluttered, as Kit said.....bluddy georgous.

but the important part is: it rides nice! 

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Paulage,way to go,that little slippage not trans (gear) related?,I hope not.slight dog wear etc?Are your gears undercut?Good Luck,Bill

[paulages]

Paulage,way to go,that little slippage not trans (gear) related?,I hope not.slight dog wear etc?Are your gears undercut?Good Luck,Bill

it's definitely not a chipped tooth or anything like that, and there's no clunking when it happens like i think would happen if a gear slipped out and re-engaged. it's only for split-second intervals. i have barnett friction discs in the clutch, so i think when it slips it just grabs again quickly because the disks are so sticky. no, the trans is not undercut, but it will be next time i have to pull the engine for anything significant. i just didn't have the cash for it during the build.

[Kemp]

Did you brace around the swing arm (ie cross brace main back tubes above the back of the engine). I remember you we're thinking of it but were concerned that added stiffness might induce wobbles unless swing arm received the same attention. In what sense is the handling improved? When you talk about increased confidence in the chassis do you mean on corner entry, stability at full lean or accelleration while at lean as you exit the corner?

[Beans]

Bike looks good.  After seeing the front fairing on the bike makes me want to get one instead of a 1/4 fairing or what ever their called.  Where did you get your fairing from?  Looks like somthing ill want to look into in the future.

[paulages]

Did you brace around the swing arm (ie cross brace main back tubes above the back of the engine). I remember you we're thinking of it but were concerned that added stiffness might induce wobbles unless swing arm received the same attention. In what sense is the handling improved? When you talk about increased confidence in the chassis do you mean on corner entry, stability at full lean or accelleration while at lean as you exit the corner?

i haven't braced the frame above the swingarm yet, and i probably won't until i really feel like i need to. as is, there's no class in which i could legally race this in OMRRA here in portland, and i suspect it's stiff enough for street conditions. honestly, i think the fork brace can account for the lion's share of the improved handling. progressive springs front and rear and cartridge emulators help, but it's how solid the bike feels that i notice the most. it feels very comfortable to lean over far, even at low (say 35MPH) speeds, and just stays where i put it.

[shotamaninRENO]

awesome job. that is one hell of a honda. glad to hear it performs as well as knocks sock off!

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Paul,sure hope u right on trans,but usually when clutch slips ,then grabs it isn't what I'd call a jerk.Gear first starting to slip in and out will jerk then catch and stay in.If it's a true jerk,i still suspect tranny.Hope I'm wrong.Bill

[paulages]

Paul,sure hope u right on trans,but usually when clutch slips ,then grabs it isn't what I'd call a jerk.Gear first starting to slip in and out will jerk then catch and stay in.If it's a true jerk,i still suspect tranny.Hope I'm wrong.Bill

it's not a jerk. It's just a momentary drop in power, but the RPMs rise rather than drop. A trans problem would feel more violent I think.

[onesickrace]

paul, bike looks killer! i follow the thread almost daily.  next time youre in the woods, tell matt, lee said hello and to take care of my sound system...

[paulages]

paul, bike looks killer! i follow the thread almost daily.  next time youre in the woods, tell matt, lee said hello and to take care of my sound system...

ha! will do.

[Ryan 550k]

Sweet baby jesus, that thing is purdier than I imagined it would be.  I hope you've gone for a nice ride by now... and that it was worth the hell she put you through this summer.  Looks like it probably was.  

just got to spin around the neighborhood a few times and shake it down to find my mistakes... some advice: make sure that you put both cam tensioner mounting bolts back on. come to find out, a big hole in the engine leaks oil.   not sure if i dried everything up for sure, but i plan to hit skyline on it tomorrow and see how the suspension feels.

Ha!  Remember a few weeks ago at the shop when Mark and I got my 550 running?  Ya, I'd missed the same bolt.  Rode it around several times wondering where the fu** the oil was coming from.  Anyways, glad it's all comin together for ya man.  I'm sure I'll see ya at the shop sometime soon.

[turboguzzi]

Hei paul

do not want to piss you off, but that sounds like a shift fork on the way out.

A slipping clutch is just a very smooth slipage that takes a while to recover.

Had the same thing in my bike, rpm spikes and by the season's end, when I opened the motor one fork was indeed really gone.

With the kind of power you are making you really should undercut the transmission. It'll cost you more in parts if you dont....those shift forks are really hard to find now

TG

[paulages]

Hei paul

do not want to piss you off, but that sounds like a shift fork on the way out.

A slipping clutch is just a very smooth slipage that takes a while to recover.

Had the same thing in my bike, rpm spikes and by the season's end, when I opened the motor one fork was indeed really gone.

With the kind of power you are making you really should undercut the transmission. It'll cost you more in parts if you dont....those shift forks are really hard to find now

TG

hmmm. it really doesn't seem like it's slipping out to me but on the other hand it shifts so smoothly into gear, i guess i could see it float out and in again without a violent clunk. yes, the trans definitely needs undercutting either way.

[turboguzzi]

well, you can continue riding just take notice in what gear it happens and avoid wide open throttle while there,

 I think that mine ude to do that in 4th.

[turboguzzi]

paul

just went down to the garage and measured the rear height

Stock frame eyelet to stock swingarm eyelet I am running 14.5" at the back.

TG

[bwaller]

Paul,

When the time is right it's the best 300 odd bucks you can spend getting the thing undercut. Fast by Gast were quick & it comes back looking like new.

[paulages]

well, you can continue riding just take notice in what gear it happens and avoid wide open throttle while there,

 I think that mine ude to do that in 4th.

i'll try the HD clutch springs too. it hasn't happened high enough to cause me to hit the limiter, but it has happened when i was leaned hard enough into a turn that i was counting on acceleration to keep me there. i'll try and pay attention to what gear it does it in. it's been raining all week, so i haven't ridden since. i need to  adjust the suspension a little and weld a fairing mount (aluminum isn't going to work in the long run: gets work hardened too quickly from vibration) anyway.

14.5", huh? and they're eye-to-clevis shocks? do you know what they're listed for? i could only find 14" shocks, but that was with Progressive brand only. i need to find 15" eye-to-eye for the race bike to keep it legal (has piggyback shocks which aren't legal in OMRRA), assuming they'll even accept it any class anyway. it's a bummer i have a race bike raced in the very same club in the 70's, and it doesn't fit the current rulebook to run vintage now. 

[turboguzzi]

well, you can continue riding just take notice in what gear it happens and avoid wide open throttle while there,

 I think that mine ude to do that in 4th.

i'll try the HD clutch springs too. it hasn't happened high enough to cause me to hit the limiter, but it has happened when i was leaned hard enough into a turn that i was counting on acceleration to keep me there. i'll try and pay attention to what gear it does it in. it's been raining all week, so i haven't ridden since. i need to  adjust the suspension a little and weld a fairing mount (aluminum isn't going to work in the long run: gets work hardened too quickly from vibration) anyway.

14.5", huh? and they're eye-to-clevis shocks? do you know what they're listed for? i could only find 14" shocks, but that was with Progressive brand only. i need to find 15" eye-to-eye for the race bike to keep it legal (has piggyback shocks which aren't legal in OMRRA), assuming they'll even accept it any class anyway. it's a bummer i have a race bike raced in the very same club in the 70's, and it doesn't fit the current rulebook to run vintage now.  

14.5" but not shock clevis to shock clevis

these little plates let me use all sorts of non-honda shocks with regular bottom eyelet like these 7160 konis

plus I can easily alter rear height with an extra set of plates.

BTW, what is it that doesnt fit their rule book?

[paulages]

well, you can continue riding just take notice in what gear it happens and avoid wide open throttle while there,

 I think that mine ude to do that in 4th.

i'll try the HD clutch springs too. it hasn't happened high enough to cause me to hit the limiter, but it has happened when i was leaned hard enough into a turn that i was counting on acceleration to keep me there. i'll try and pay attention to what gear it does it in. it's been raining all week, so i haven't ridden since. i need to  adjust the suspension a little and weld a fairing mount (aluminum isn't going to work in the long run: gets work hardened too quickly from vibration) anyway.

14.5", huh? and they're eye-to-clevis shocks? do you know what they're listed for? i could only find 14" shocks, but that was with Progressive brand only. i need to find 15" eye-to-eye for the race bike to keep it legal (has piggyback shocks which aren't legal in OMRRA), assuming they'll even accept it any class anyway. it's a bummer i have a race bike raced in the very same club in the 70's, and it doesn't fit the current rulebook to run vintage now.  

14.5" but not shock clevis to shock clevis

these little plates let me use all sorts of non-honda shocks with regular bottom eyelet like these 7160 konis

plus I can easily alter rear height with an extra set of plates.

BTW, what is it that doesnt fit their rule book?

it's post-'72, it's a 550 which they consider different enough from a 500 to not be legal, and the shocks are piggyback gas-charged units. obviously this is changeable at least. it looks like they might allow it to run in open vintage, which would basically run it against cb750s, water buffalos, etc.