Topic: what headlights are best for my sohc

[the technological J]

what headligths do u prefer? i got a silverstar sealed beam...not a moto specific and its brigth and long but not wide.... ive also been riding a 750 vulcan and its headlight  compared to my honda is like a spotlight compared to a flashlight.. what works best and wont inhibit charging? (if headlights do) seems these headligths are awefully dimm.... is there a way around it? or am i just gonna have to deal?

[johnyvilla]

V-leads HID. Draws less current and many times brighter than sealed beam.

[honda750k]

Got any info on that HID thing?  I want to do this on my 750. 

Alternately, for better lighting, get a headlight housing that takes an H4 bulb for the 7" bucket, and your options broaden about 1000% in a heartbeat.   

[MCRider]

All lights work better with a relay. Even the stock light will be noticably brighter.

Many threads here on DIY.

YOu can buy a pre-made up kit here: http://easternbeaver.com/

Scroll down to "H4 Relay Kit"

Also makes horns louder with a relay.

Really is the place to start, IMO.

Doesn' affect charging as same power is used, its just used more efficiently.

[the technological J]

Alternately, for better lighting, get a headlight housing that takes an H4 bulb for the 7" bucket, and your options broaden about 1000% in a heartbeat.   

where can i find something like that? and for what price?

[johnyvilla]

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=55032.msg591962#msg591962

[Industrial Rat400f Killer]

So to do this buy and install the H4 Heavy Duty Single Headlight Relay Kits with Ceramic H4 Socket and V-HID 35W SLIM BALLAST XENON HIGH/LOW MOTORCYCLE KIT H4 5000K PURE WHITE?

I'm just clarifying because my 400 desperately needs to free up some electricity given my current stripped down set up.

Excellent piece of info here.

[MCRider]

So to do this buy and install the H4 Heavy Duty Single Headlight Relay Kits with Ceramic H4 Socket and V-HID 35W SLIM BALLAST XENON HIGH/LOW MOTORCYCLE KIT H4 5000K PURE WHITE?

I'm just clarifying because my 400 desperately needs to free up some electricity given my current stripped down set up.

Excellent piece of info here.

Yikes!

All I've ever done is the relay and a standard H4. And on a HawkGT650 (7" bucket) not a 400.

[johnyvilla]

Right Rat400. Get whatever H4 lens will fit your ride and go from there. I am so happy with this light I am buying a second for my Titan.

[Industrial Rat400f Killer]

Right Rat400. Get whatever H4 lens will fit your ride and go from there. I am so happy with this light I am buying a second for my Titan.

Cool, thanks

[Mdub]

I upgraded to relays on my headlight.
Worked great at first but after awhile my charging system could not keep up.
Upon close examination, it was discovered that one of the three yellow alternator wires was corroded at the plug.
The additional current being supplied to keep up with the relays and the "brighter" head light overheated and melted the connector.

So I called Tony at Oregon motorcycle products.
What a guy!
He replaced all of my charge system plugs and tried to get out of selling me his upgraded solid state rect/reg,
by saying that my system now worked fine and I didn't need his upgrade!
Needless to say, I couldn't let him out of a sale that easy!
I purchased his upgrade anyway.

It doesn't put out any more current than stock, it just starts charging at ~1200rpm instead of ~2500+.
What a difference, turn signals are fast even when idling at 900rpm.
This has allowed me to install a 60/55 watt Sylvania silver star bulb in my Bosch H4 light housing.

Niiiiice!!! The Bosch has a nice low beam cutoff (much like an hid) and the hi-beam is wide open.
I may upgrade to hid eventually, but for now, I have plenty of light and power even with a Sony 200 watt sound system and incandescant running lights and turn signals.

Pardon my scribbling, here is one possible schematic for headlight relays:
(you can zoom with the zoom tool in the lower right corner of IE Explorer)
 

[MCRider]

I upgraded to relays on my headlight.
Worked great at first but after awhile my charging system could not keep up.
Upon close examination, it was discovered that one of the three yellow alternator wires was corroded at the plug.
The additional current being supplied to keep up with the relays and the "brighter" head light overheated and melted the connector.

So I called Tony at Oregon motorcycle products.
What a guy!
SNIP

Is that really true? And I pose that as a a question as I don't really know. But it was my understanding (possibly wrong) that the altenator puts out X at X rpms regardless of the load. If the output was more than the load requires, the excess is bled off into heat by the reg/rect.

So you meltdown of the connector was coincident to and not caused by the relay.  Many people have melted those connectors without doing anything.

Tangentially, the relay doesn't increase the load, but simply directs the output available to the light through a more efficient circuit than the handlebar switch.

I am prepared to be educated.

[TwoTired]

All the relay mod does is to circumvent problems with the original wiring/switches that develop a voltage drop over time/use/abuse.

Check the voltage at the headlight compared to what voltage the battery has.  Many times the headlight will get 2 or more volts less than it did when Honda first sold it.  And that will make ANY headlight dimmer as can be expected if you starve it for voltage/power.

However, properly done, a relay will not cause deterioration of and other wise good connector switch or other wiring components on the bike.

The unwary see a dim headlight, replace it, find it works no better and then assume the design is bad/old/etc.  Then make matters worse by installing a headlight with higher power draw.  Yes it may appear brighter, but you haven't really addressed the root problem of a wiring system that need maintenance, only side stepped it for a while.  The first course of action is to repair dilapidated connections and switches, IMO.  Then when you can say with certainty that the lamp is getting nearly all the battery can deliver, and you still think the headlight is too dim, maybe an upgrade is in order.  But, the cost of a headlight that projects more light is often also one that draws more power from the battery, and therefore taxes a charging system whose task it is to keep that battery at full charge.  This is more difficult to accomplish depending on the specific bike and it's root design. Eg. the 750 has a more powerful alternator than a 550.

The same mechanism that makes a headlight dim also reduces the alternator output.  Both are powered by the black wire in the harness.  If the voltage is low there, both the headlight will be dimmer and the alternator magnetic field will be weaker and reduce its output capability.

A change in regulator alone cannot "make" the alternator produce more power at any given RPM.  The regulator's source of power is that Black wire, ultimately sourced from the battery.  The very best any alternator can do is give the alternator full battery voltage, and then the alternator will provide its maximum output capability for the rotational speed it is presently turning.  Of course, all three phases of it's output must be connected and all six of the rectifier diodes must be in sound shape, as well.

Your 750 alternator is capable of 210 Watts @5000rpm (to be shared with all the bike's electrical users and the leftovers are available for the battery.)  At idle it makes considerably less power (~50-70watts).
Your 550 has 150 watts available @5000rpm (to be shared with all the bike's electrical users and the leftovers are available for the battery.)  At idle it makes considerably less power (~40-50watts).

Most SOHC4 bikes in stock form draw about 120Watts if the ignition and headlight is on.  What the alternator doesn't supply, the battery delivers, until it's storage capacity is expended.  Then the ignition coils stop firing the spark plugs.
Increasing the headlight wattage draw, draws the battery down faster at idle, increases the RPM at which the battery begins recharge, and slows the charge rate of the battery when the RPM is high enough to accomplish that task.

So, how much work is there to change a light bulb and how many forum members does it take?

[Mdub]

Haha I'm a slow typer glad you chimed in TT, I wrote this in response to MCRider.
Am I correct surmising the part high lighted in blue?

Well I am by no means an expert, but,
I do know if you put additional current through an already corroded/oxidized connector,
(the headlight was brighter consuming more power because of the straight/low resistance shot through the relays)
that the connector will heat up because of the resistance.

Heat encourages oxidation. Before long there is so much resistance/oxidation,
that the plug turns into a "resistance heater" and burns itself up.
Mine just melted one of the yellow output wires so I still had 2/3 of an alternator.
Enough so it would run, but a nightmare to trouble shoot as all this happpened right after the relay install.

I don't think it was a coincidence, I think that the additional current allowed to the headlight because of a lower resistance path (allowing it to be brighter?) coupled with the additional draw of the 2 relays ~.2-.3 amps each,
(yes they do increase the load ~.5 amp) put my marginal charging system over the edge.
I could be wrong but that seemed to be the case.
Maybe TT can shed some "light" 

The alternator just spins away with an output corresponding to RPM.
Honda's limited mechanical regulator looks at battery voltage and has a set of points that switch in a resister reducing the alt. output when battery voltage is sufficient. It doesn't start charging until ~2500 rpm.
With dirty output connections, the battery is always starving even though the reg. is always in the charge mode.
This will then destroy your battery or potentially, cause a fire!

The lesson learned was, if you increase the load on your charging system, make sure the connections are up to the task of carrying more current by disassembling them, cleaning them with de-oxit spray and tightening/reassembling with dielectric silicone grease. Otherwise, you may get a cascading failure mode that's a pain to trouble shoot.

As far as I understand Tony's reg/rect., it is much more resolute rather than a simple (archaic!) mechanical charge/no charge  off/on switch. As a result of greater efficiency/resolution, it is able to supply sufficient charging current, sitting at a red light at ~1200 rpm, with the (fast) turn signal, hi-beam and stereo on.
It doesn't need ~2500.
Now I can be stuck in traffic with the light on and not kill my battery as can happen with a properly working stock setup.

That's all I know!
Mike

[TwoTired]

Haha I'm a slow typer glad you chimed in TT, I wrote this in response to MCRider.
Am I correct surmising the part high lighted in blue?

I don't think it was a coincidence, I think that the additional current allowed to the headlight because of a lower resistance path (allowing it to be brighter?) coupled with the additional draw of the 2 relays ~.2-.3 amps each,
(yes they do increase the load ~.5 amp) put my marginal charging system over the edge.
I could be wrong but that seemed to be the case.
Maybe TT can shed some "light" 

I don't think the relay approach would make the the alternator deliver higher peak currents.  But due to the higher load on the battery, the alternator has to spend more time recharging it.  Connector "on time" duty cycle is therefore increased ad more time is spent pushing current through a resistive connection and therefore increased heating occurs. There is merit to your supposition that the relay bypass and a higher wattage headlight will draw more power from the system as a whole. 
Here's how it works.
 A 50 watt headlamp is rated for that consumption at 12.8 Volts.  At that voltage the current draw is 3.9 amps and the resistive element can be calculated at 3.28 ohms.    The headlight resistance is fixed and won't change with the power applied.  If you feed 3.28 ohms with 10 V, it draws 3.05 A through its circuit and consumes 30.5 watts of power.  The lamp will be considerably dimmer as a result.  Conversely, if the same resistive (3.28Ω) headlamp is fed with a normal battery running voltage of 13.8 V it will draw 4.2 amps and draw 58 watts of power for the bike's system/battery.  So, this means the headlamp will draw more or less power through its wiring, connectors, switches (and from the battery), depending on how much voltage being delivered to it.

As far as I understand Tony's reg/rect., it is much more resolute rather than a simple (archaic!) mechanical charge/no charge  off/on switch. As a result of greater efficiency/resolution, it is able to supply sufficient charging current, sitting at a red light at ~1200 rpm, with the (fast) turn signal, hi-beam and stereo on.
It doesn't need ~2500.
Now I can be stuck in traffic with the light on and not kill my battery as can happen with a properly working stock setup.

Tony's regulator cannot make the alternator work any harder or better than the stock one.  As mentioned in an earlier post it, like the stock one, can only distribute the power it sees on the Black wire to the alternator field.  I don't care how much you wish to disparage the stock mechanical regulator, it works just fine in its original condition.  It, like any replacement senses the battery charge state and tells the alternator the work toward keeping it at full charge.  Assuming the battery is low, both regulators will put battery voltage onto the field coil, then it is completely dependent on how fast the rotor is spinning as to how much power comes from the alternator.  The regulator can only cut back the alternator power in the event the alternator is making too much power for a battery already fully charged.

While the electronic regulator can provide continuously variable alternator field control, the mechanical one will continually switch to provide the same average voltage to the field coils as the electronic one and both should strive to keep the battery voltage below 14.5v and at an average value of about 13.8V. 

One thing I'd like to know about the Oregon regulator is if it is temperature compensated to reduce the battery peak charge voltage in cold climates.  The stock mechanical one >does< have this temperature compensation so as not the "boil" off electrolyte in cold weather.

Regarding your report that your bike now charges at a lower RPM, have you checked the black wire voltage going to the regulator before and after the symptom change.  It could be that your mechanical regulator would also charge at the same RPMs given the same input voltage and the with internal contacts and adjustments restored to original specifications.  Something, I find rather likely.

Cheers,

[Mdub]

Thank you for the well thought response, TT

Tony's regulator cannot make the alternator work any harder or better than the stock one.  As mentioned in an earlier post it, like the stock one, can only distribute the power it sees on the Black wire to the alternator field.  I don't care how much you wish to disparage the stock mechanical regulator, it works just fine in its original condition.  It, like any replacement senses the battery charge state and tells the alternator the work toward keeping it at full charge.  Assuming the battery is low, both regulators will put battery voltage onto the field coil, then it is completely dependent on how fast the rotor is spinning as to how much power comes from the alternator.  The regulator can only cut back the alternator power in the event the alternator is making too much power for a battery already fully charged.

While the electronic regulator can provide continuously variable alternator field control, the mechanical one will continually switch to provide the same average voltage to the field coils as the electronic one and both should strive to keep the battery voltage below 14.5v and at an average value of about 13.8V. 

One thing I'd like to know about the Oregon regulator is if it is temperature compensated to reduce the battery peak charge voltage in cold climates.  The stock mechanical one >does< have this temperature compensation so as not the "boil" off electrolyte in cold weather.

Regarding your report that your bike now charges at a lower RPM, have you checked the black wire voltage going to the regulator before and after the symptom change.  It could be that your mechanical regulator would also charge at the same RPMs given the same input voltage and the with internal contacts and adjustments restored to original specifications.  Something, I find rather likely.

Cheers,





[/quote]

Sorry if my "archaic" comment sounded disparaging, it was only meant to point out the antiquity of the design.
Heck, NASA replaced all the steam guages in the shuttle with glass panel displays.
Not that the steam guages didn't work.....

Anyway, I do understand ohms law.
And I understand that a higher wattage bulb and two relays will draw more power from the system as a whole.
All of this occured one I installed relays on my STOCK 50/55 watt bulb.

Before, when I had a dim headlight and no relays, I had no charging problems, unless I idled in traffic with the light on, (which you cannot do (for long) on a stock setup as the mechanical regulator does not begin charging sufficiently until ~2500RPM).

After the relay install, I immediately had a problem to the point of killing my battery.
That is the part I don't understand, everything being the same, you would think that the lack of resistance through the switches would make up for the additional relay draw?

Concerning Tony's regulator, it begins charging at ~1200RPM instead of ~2500 and it does make a huge difference
when idling in traffic and overall with responsive turn signals at idle.

It could be that the mechanical regulator charges at ~1200, but, on page 93 of the service manual, it says that with the lights on, at 2000RPM the charge current is 0 amps, and 3000RPM = 2.4 amps. Extrapolating, that gives 1.2 amps at 2500RPM. Maybe the book is wrong, it certainly is about 1000RPM giving 6.5 amps.

I will check the output of Tony's unit tomorrow and post the results.
Thanks again for the time and input.
Mike

[Dave-and-his-550]

Really want an HID system for my bike! Will make it look so much cooler. I'll keep an eye on this thread  

Edit: Also, great post TT, just read through it, will print it off and save it later, just to sleepy atm. (at the moment)

[TwoTired]

Sorry if my "archaic" comment sounded disparaging, it was only meant to point out the antiquity of the design.
Heck, NASA replaced all the steam guages in the shuttle with glass panel displays.
Not that the steam guages didn't work.....

...and ending with another disparaging comment.  However, isn't your putting electronic regulators on an antique, the same as having glass panel displays in a steam locomotive?  Not that they wouldn't work...

Before, when I had a dim headlight and no relays, I had no charging problems, unless I idled in traffic with the light on, (which you cannot do (for long) on a stock setup as the mechanical regulator does not begin charging sufficiently until ~2500RPM).

I'm sorry, that is just not typical.  My 550s, with stock everything, begin charging (on average) between 1300 and 1700 RPM. (Ok, I have one that won't charge until 3000, but that has a known faulty field coil, being 7 ohms instead of the required 5.)

After the relay install, I immediately had a problem to the point of killing my battery.

I assume that was associated with the loss of one phase (1/3) of the alternator, don't you?

That is the part I don't understand, everything being the same, you would think that the lack of resistance through the switches would make up for the additional relay draw?

Won't really know this without info for the V Drop on Black wire to Vreg before and after, or the summation of all the inline resistances.  The headlight is normally about 1/3 the load being drawn through the key switch contacts.

Concerning Tony's regulator, it begins charging at ~1200RPM instead of ~2500 and it does make a huge difference
when idling in traffic and overall with responsive turn signals at idle.

 
You keep saying this.  But, is it fair to compare an old worn component to a new one?  Mechanical contacts can wear and do you know the adjustments on it haven't be tampered with?  In short, how do you know the mechanical regulator you have, and are comparing a brand new one against, was working as well as it did when it was originally put in use?

It could be that the mechanical regulator charges at ~1200, but, on page 93 of the service manual, it says that with the lights on, at 2000RPM the charge current is 0 amps, and 3000RPM = 2.4 amps. Extrapolating, that gives 1.2 amps at 2500RPM. Maybe the book is wrong, it certainly is about 1000RPM giving 6.5 amps.

Yes, it certainly is wrong about the 6.5 amps @ 1000RPM.  They left out the minus sign in front of the 6.5!

However, the shop manual is a guideline for service techs to justify parts replacement under warranty, if the bike doesn't meet those published numbers.   Those published numbers aren't typical values, just the worst that is tolerable.  There is certainly some variance in performance of the charging system among examples.  But, nearly all performed better than book when new.

Fact is, the Vreg does not know about engine RPM or what the alternator is putting out.  It only knows what voltage it is getting across the Black and Green wires and it uses that info to throttle the alternator back when that voltage becomes too high.  For the mechanical regulator, that decision is based on point clearances and a screw preload setting that adjusts how much a spring pushes against a magnetic field resistance.  Like much of the rest of the bike, it only works well when within certain tolerances.  At Idle RPM setting the mechanical regulator puts (for all practical purposes) 100% of the voltage from that black wire to alternator by switch contact closure.  An electronic regulator simply cannot do that, as some voltage is lost through silicon current carrying junctions in the path between black wire and white wire to the alternator field.  Admitted, the v drop through an electronic switch can be very small, depending on the technology employed.  But, it can do no better than the switch contacts in a mechanical vreg meeting original specs.

I want to see pics of a glass panel display mounted on your SOHC4. 

[Mdub]

It's just a natural progession for me, as technologies become available,
to take advantage of them or use them to supplement existing technologies..
You do have a cell phone don't you? How 'bout a landline? Even the fact that we call it a 'landline' now instead of a 'phone' is indicative of the (sometimes invasive) technologies being hurled at us these days.

I qouted #'s out of the the service manual for a 750 and you compared it to your 550
What do you consider to be "charging"? I extrapolated 1.2 amps at ~2500RPM and ZERO at 1000RPM (idling)
with the light on. According to ohms law(

I ride my bike sometimes out to some of the most desolate areas imaginable. I do everything I can to assure I will get back to civilation. This has included modern upgrades wherever possible that effect safety/reliabilty/performance/comfort - in that order.
Tops on the list of improvements (made possible by Tony's reg/rect) are a 60/55W headlight, as well as an electronic 
ignition #ohm coils), solid state reg/rect. tires, x-ring chain, etc.)
I also carry my old points plate and reg/rect as a backup, just in case, to get home.
Sorry if you don't agree with that, different strokes.......

I qouted #'s out of the the service manual for a 750 and you compared it to your 550

What do you consider to be "charging"? I extrapolated 1.2 amps at ~2500RPM and ZERO at 1000RPM (idling)
with the light on. According to ohms law, with a 60W light (hi-beam) at 12.7V that's 4.7 amps for the light alone.
All up my budget is (relays, field coil, tach/speedo running/tail lights and a 200W sound system) 11.5-12A.

I don't think I can run a 60W light on a stock system without killing the battery.
Somehow, my charging system is up to the task.
I haven't had a chance to check Tony's #'s yet but I will and post them.

I won't dissagree that a clean, properly adjusted stock setup is perfectly
adequate under most riding conditions on a stock bike.
('most' being qualified by "if you are not stuck idling in traffic with the lights on" (1000RPM=0A).
However the only thing "stock" about mine is the engine. Why, even the gas tank has a custom dent in it!


And now, the starship USS RHONDA, replete with request!:
(you can use the zoom tool in the lwr right of IE Explodrer)

[TwoTired]

I qouted #'s out of the the service manual for a 750 and you compared it to your 550

The chart in the 750 Service manual is identical to the one in the 550 manual.  Which is interesting in itself, seeing as the 750 alternator is rated at 210 watts at 5000 RPM, and the 550 alternator is rated 150 Watts at 5000RPM.
Besides this is the first mention that you had a 750.  We can talk specific machines if you like.

What do you consider to be "charging"? I extrapolated 1.2 amps at ~2500RPM and ZERO at 1000RPM (idling)
with the light on. According to ohms law( 

Charging is when the alternator output exceeds the bike electrical load, so that energy can be put back into the battery.
Something else you should be aware of, is the shop manual chart assumes the battery is at full charge and the regulator is throttling back the alternator to maintenance charge rates, not depleted battery recharge rates which can be higher.  This is why the 5000 RPM numbers are only 1 amp.  This is the power going into the battery only, which is expected to be at full charge already. 

I ride my bike sometimes out to some of the most desolate areas imaginable. I do everything I can to assure I will get back to civilation. This has included modern upgrades wherever possible that effect safety/reliabilty/performance/comfort - in that order.
Tops on the list of improvements (made possible by Tony's reg/rect) are a 60/55W headlight, as well as an electronic 
ignition #ohm coils), solid state reg/rect. tires, x-ring chain, etc.)
I also carry my old points plate and reg/rect as a backup, just in case, to get home.
Sorry if you don't agree with that, different strokes.......

If it makes you feel better, have at it.  All the SOHC4's when new and even today assuming one in good maintenance status would/will go coast to coast to coast to coast etc. with the stock components and be astoundingly reliable.  Without any of the "improvements" you listed.  I don't have great concern what you do to your bike to make you happy.  I'm just trying to limit what assertions are going to be applied to the Honda SOHC4 fleet in general.  EG., stating that Tony's regulator is better than all the stock regulators now in the fleet regardless of condition and that the regulator itself somehow makes the alternator develop more power, I'm going to have to disagree with, on the basis of science and physics. (and other facts, not in evidence)

I qouted #'s out of the the service manual for a 750 and you compared it to your 550

See above.

What do you consider to be "charging"? I extrapolated 1.2 amps at ~2500RPM and ZERO at 1000RPM (idling)
with the light on.

At 1000 RPM your battery is discharging with the lights on, I don't care what regulator you have on there.  The stock bike draws about 10 amps through the main fuse from the battery terminals.  That's about a 120-130 Watt load that's there when the key is turned on, and the lights (if your bike has a separate switch for that).  If you want to believe the shop manual, the battery is draining the battery at 6.5 amp rate at 1000 RPM. 12*6.5 is 78 watts.  Subtract that from the  120-130 constant bike load, and you come out with 42 to 52 watts is being provided by the alternator.  At a 12V system voltage (from the chart), any regulator should be passing that directly to the alternator so that it can make maximum power at that RPM.
You let your bike idle long enough and the battery will still go dead.  (although I've not measured the 750, I think it make more power at idle than the 550.  But, that's just a hunch.
Anyway, you increased your bike constant load with low ohm coils and other things.  At idle it will deplete the battery faster.

According to ohms law, with a 60W light (hi-beam) at 12.7V that's 4.7 amps for the light alone.
All up my budget is (relays, field coil, tach/speedo running/tail lights and a 200W sound system) 11.5-12A.

Good thing your alternator is capable of 15 amps when you rev it up, huh?

I don't think I can run a 60W light on a stock system without killing the battery.

Yes, you can.  You just have to have a 750 and spend more time at revs other than idle.

Somehow, my charging system is up to the task.
I haven't had a chance to check Tony's #'s yet but I will and post them.

It's a 15 amp-ish alternator on the 750.  You still think the regulator makes the alternator make more power?  You've got to make and provide some current flow and voltage measurements to prove that. (IMO)  I'm a skeptic, I'm afraid.

And now, the starship USS RHONDA, replete with request!:

Did you super glue that thing on?  Velcro?
Are you using Wi Fi or Bluetooth sensors to gather bike status data? 

These bikes are fun aren't they?
I had a CB antenna (and a CB radio) on one of mine for a while some time back in the 80s.  Not for very long, though.  Too much distraction from the task of staying alive in traffic on a bike.

Cheers,

[bryanj]

As i understand it the only advantage to an electronic Reg over a mechanical is that when the battery is up to voltage the electronic can infinitely vary the charging current whilst the mechanical can only be full, half or none. This has to be better for the battery life and condition, plus the "Usuall" failure on the reg is the Mechanical condition of the contacts which the electronic don't have.

Still prefer points for ignition by the way and whilst i would love to buy the Hondaman ignition unit my financial position doesn't allow it along with the fact of low miles and places i know where i can get contact sets dirt cheap! (My tinkering time is free and i enjoy it!!)

[Dave-and-his-550]

Would be cool to get some links in here on headlights. I'm thinking of going with an all chrome 7" bucket. But there are a lot of styles out there.

[fatdubsfatman]

this is some great information. Thank you. 

[Bamboozler]

Earlier this week I picked up a Ebay Chinese H4 6000k hi/low beam Xenon HID kit with slim ballast for $58.90 shipped and a H4 headlight and clip minus bulb from http://www.motorcyclesolutionsllc.com for $30.99 out the door.  Total cost for the kit was $89.89 delivered.  It saves 1.8 amps and is brighter than the stock sealed headlight , I'm happy!  (for what its worth it comes with a one year manufactures warranty)

A friend has had what I assume to be another inexpensive Chinese brand HID on his Ski-Doo snowmobile and it has held up to two years of aggressive trail riding punishment, that's all the testimony I know of.  Install should be straight forward. I look forward to seeing what it looks at night.  Anything to help see the rats of the woods (deer) a bit better here in WI is a bonus in my book.

[Bamboozler]

Wanted to update my post regarding the Chinese HID regarding power consumption. I was a bit mislead and wanted to post some data that may be used for search fodder.

The various HID kits advertise 35watt of power consumption.  While this maybe true for the bulb's power requirements it is not the whole story for the complete system.  There are efficiency losses with the control hardware; mostly from the inverter circuit that ramps the voltage up to 25,000 volt to meet the bulb's requirements.  I received my HID lights direct from China and tested the current draw this evening.  The following is what I measured with a power supply and a fluke multimeter.

Voltage was set to a fixed 13.8v, and the current draw of the bulb and all the hardware needed to light the bulb was measured:

"high" beam measured ~3.58amps @ 13.8V = 49.4 watts
"low" beam measured ~3.25amps @ 13.8V = 44.9 watts

Another notable fact is that there is a larger current draw when first powered that levels out within 20 seconds when the bulb finally warms/brightens up to full strength. The "high" beam started at 77.3 watts and leveled to its 49.4 watts and the "low" beam started at 73.1 watts leveling to its 44.9 watts.

So no 1.8 amps of current draw savings when switching to these guys, its a wash with low beam and around a half amp savings on high.  One thing I will say is that these bad boys are BRIGHT.  I had the bulb mounted in a H4 headlight (not on the cycle) shining around the yard when dark out and was pleased that they will be gracing the CB... not so sure the oncoming cars will think the same...