yes i like that post. i have read it a few times.
honda man, It took me a little bit to figure out what you meant. So what your saying is to do some work in the actual combustion chamber. Kinda like the hemi head you did? how do i CC the head after. That might be beyond me.
I am going to try and do all of the Hondamans Mods to this bike. So far i have the 40 tooth sprocket on the back. I guess i could do the spring advancer in a short amount of time. Im going to drop in the 650 cam after its ported. Now for degreeing the cam im going to have to do some research.From what i have read i find TDC. Then i find the point that the the some valve opens .04", note the degree and then adjust the cam so that it opens .04", 5 degrees sooner. Correct? Ill do another thread when i tackle that one. How much more duration is the 650 cam and how far should i advance it? I see in one post you say 5 deg and another 3-4 deg.
Re cap.
How do you CC a head?
When all is said and done i should have:
40 tooth rear sprocket
Ported head
650 cam
Shortened spring advancer & adv timing 2 deg.
adv cam (?)degrees
I also need to change over to D8ea plugs from the d7ea im running now.
First, here's the 'simple' answers:
Try the Nippon Denso X24ES-U plugs instead of teh D8E range: that one is too cold for anything but track racing on a 500/550.
My article about advancing the cams is related to the 500/550 cams: I have note experimented with the 650 cams (sorry
).
Timing: you've got the right ideas, there.
Head: the 550 is already a hemi. But, the valves are often sunk into the head because of the rush to build the engines. This leaves a little "step" around the edges of the valves, which you will see if you remove teh valve and look closely at the seat. I have actually seen these valves seats standing ABOVE the head, in some cases, a few that were flush, too, but mostly they are sunk down inside. If they are standing above, they won't need deshrouding (but could use a valve seat cutback and corresponding shim under the spring for that valve). If they are flush, you don't need to do anything. But, if they are sunken in, you can grind away that step all around the valve and get a lot more flow for free. The same goes for both intake and exhaust valves. My [past] experience with the 500 was that this was better controlled on those engines than on the 550s, at Honda. Almost every 550 head I have seen lacked the finesse of the 500 hand work, your particular one being the worst I've ever seen in the intake tract.
CC'ing the heads: take a sheet of 1/8" to 1/4" thick plexiglass or acrylic (Home Depot will cut it to size for you for $1, at least here) and cut it a little larger than the shape of the head, so it will cover the chambers if you lay it across them. Drill 4 holes, about 1/4" size, so they are centered in each of the chambers as the plex lays on them (head upside down and levelled). Countersink the holes on one side: this will be the side toward you when working with it, so it is like a little funnel. (Note: you might want to have Hone Depot cut several for you: this stuff often cracks while drilling, and you have to buy a whole sheet, anyway...run the drill very fast, and press slowly, to semi-melt your way through the stuff, or grind a hole with a carbide bit and a Dremel tool.)
Now, the general idea is: you will take a syringe and add fluid to each chamber until they are full up to the little hole, recording how much fluid it takes. In real life, first you want to smear some Vaseline or grease around the edges of each chamber to help seal the plex, make sure the head is level, then stick the plex to the grease to make it stay in place. This is where the countersinked "funnel" comes in handy! I like to use ATF for this process, as it is red and easy for an old guy to see in a dimly-lit garage.
If you need a syringe, PM me and I'll send you one for $1 and postage: I have about 40 of them around here for paint mixing and CC'ing heads. I bought a box of 50 some years ago, at $1 each. I'm not going to say HOW MANY years ago, but they are a little sticky at first, so you need to move them a few times to smooth them out, now...
