Author Topic: Duplicolor Paint Shop System paints (Read 21990 times)

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #25 on:** November 11, 2009, 09:55:55 AM »

Awesome, any pix? Also where did you get your 2k clear? It would be cool to find some place local that carried it so I didn't have to wait for the UPS man. I am stoked~

Freaky1 · « **Reply #26 on:** November 11, 2009, 11:37:31 AM »

I tried taking some pics but the stuff is ssssoooo glossy they just look black, I'm sure it has nothing to do with my lack of photo skills!

I ordered it from the place in the link, had it within a week after my order, they are fast when it comes to filling orders.
Next time I hit the paint shop near my house I'm going to ask if they can get it.
It is very strong stuff, defiantly go with all the protective gear, and good ventilation.

bucky katt · « **Reply #27 on:** November 11, 2009, 06:46:54 PM »

if the 2k clear works with that paint shop system paint then i'd use it again. very easy to apply it must be idiot proof if i can do it and have it look decent.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #28 on:** November 11, 2009, 07:39:31 PM »

Bucky the 2k clear is said to be compatible with enamel and lacquer.
Duplicolor stated that they design the paint shop series to be compatible with urethane based clears. I am on it ! BTW - What was your results ? Can I see a photo? What kinda strategy did use use ? Like how many times did you wet sand ,what grit,etc. Very interested to see a paint shop finished product. Did it orange peel on you very badly ? Did you thin it any or just strain it and shoot it ? Any tips or observations?

bucky katt · « **Reply #29 on:** November 12, 2009, 03:16:48 PM »

i sanded the primer (the duplicolor one for these paints) with 800, i laid on 2 light-ish coats then one slightly heavier like they tell you to. i sanded with 1200 then 1500 then i cleared it. it LOOKED fantastic until i got the smallest dribble of fuel onto the gas tank.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #30 on:** November 12, 2009, 08:42:20 PM »

Any pix? Which color did you use?

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #31 on:** November 12, 2009, 08:50:09 PM »

BK check out this site! Watch the video too

http://www.spraymax.de/index.php?id=497&L=1

they also have a product aimed solely at motorcycle tanks called bikers beauty ..... This is THE way to go!

http://cms.kwasny.de/450.0.html?&L=1

ColinMc · « **Reply #32 on:** November 12, 2009, 09:27:11 PM »

You do realize you can get two part urethane clear for 35 dollars for QUART with the hardener, then just spray it out of a 5 dollar disposable PreVal sprayer and it'll spray just as well...and you get a LOT more clear coat that way. The downside is you have to get a 30 cent mixing cup to mix it 4 parts clear to 1 part hardener in small batches as you use it...

if you guys still insist on using spray cans than so be it...it's just a lot more work and a lot less product.

I know i'm biased, but also using high quality clear over a cheap basecoat is a waste...you are only as strong as the weakest link in the chain...it's like using Krylon spray primer, then using House of Kolor on top of that...what's the point?!

Or building a 2 million dollar house, on a swamp...

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #33 on:** November 12, 2009, 09:47:07 PM »

Cheaply aquired motorcycles are fun to build on but convenience versus looks is always a consideration. Me personally if I were building a bike to keep forever and ever I still would go this route because A) it's convenient /easy to use and B) you get great results that only you know you didn't do it the BEst way . I am not building show bikes so if it offends aficionados then look the other way . It's kinda shnobbish (sorry but true) every one knows 2k urethane is the best way to go . Everyone does not have access to a compressor , booth , etc. People just work with what they got and if it comes out nice and they are pleased then hey, what's it to you ? my .02 cents

5 dollar disposable PreVal sprayer< never seen those> do tell. Most weekend /backyard warriors aren't fully enlightened in the ins and outs of intricate details. Outside of paint and body people ,who knows this ? Please do share and don't just tease though , be helpful and offer up a link or two . That is what the forum is for .

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #34 on:** November 12, 2009, 10:52:09 PM »

Quote from: ColinMc on November 12, 2009, 09:27:11 PM

You do realize you can get two part urethane clear for 35 dollars for QUART with the hardener, then just spray it out of a 5 dollar disposable PreVal sprayer and it'll spray just as well...and you get a LOT more clear coat that way. The downside is you have to get a 30 cent mixing cup to mix it 4 parts clear to 1 part hardener in small batches as you use it...

if you guys still insist on using spray cans than so be it...it's just a lot more work and a lot less product.

I know i'm biased, but also using high quality clear over a cheap basecoat is a waste...you are only as strong as the weakest link in the chain...it's like using Krylon spray primer, then using House of Kolor on top of that...what's the point?!

Or building a 2 million dollar house, on a swamp...

+ 1 Colin, do it once, do it right..

Mick

Freaky1 · « **Reply #35 on:** November 13, 2009, 03:37:27 AM »

While no one can disagree with the weakest link statement, there is also the popular chrome don't get you home. I'm on a very limited budget and chose to spend the bucks on powdercoating the frame, enclosed neck bearings, swing arm bearings (I think you can see where I'm going). The paint can wait, my shop is still under construction (my dad is 72 and his is still growing, does it ever stop?

the compressors and various air tools will come, but for now 2 cans of primer, 5 cans of color, and 3 cans of 2K made my bike look better than I ever thought. Ask my kids, I'm a firm believer in do it right the first time but sometimes it's do it right the best you can.
The first shot was outside, can't really get the color but that is my neighbors tree in the next yard, kinda shows the gloss.
The second gives a better idea of the color.
It will all be repainted someday but for now, I think it looks pretty good, everyones advice is wonderful. I always appreciate the ones who know sharing with those of us who don't, as long as it's constructive.
I shot 3 light coats of primer, sanded with 1500, 3 light coats of paint, again with 1500, 2 more coats of color, 1500 again, then two coats of clear, 1500, one final coat of clear. It is a bit orange peely but that will rub out, done with the front fender and it looks nice. If I can manage to get a decent pic of it, I'll post it.

Freaky1 · « **Reply #36 on:** November 13, 2009, 03:56:15 AM »

Sorry about that, camera takes some HUGE pictures.

ColinMc · « **Reply #37 on:** November 13, 2009, 06:25:00 AM »

I see where you guys are coming from, and i'm not trying to come off as a paint snob...although I know I am lol...but anyways.

There are ways to do it cheap, but do it well. So most any paint supply store will have these:
http://www.prevalspraygun.com/

They work like a spray can, not fantastic but decent. I know NAPA carries them and they are $4.99 part number is: 770-5030

Spray cans of a quality primer are OK in a pinch and i'll concede there. But spend the extra 10-15 dollars if possible and get at least a value line basecoat that is pre-reduced so you can spray it out of a preval sprayer, and get some value line/entry level clear coat for 35 bucks or so for a quart with the hardener needed. Get two sprayers one for the base, one for the clear so you don't have to bother cleaning things out. You are looking at 60 bucks worth of stuff, it'll last longer and look better than anything you get in cans for a little more money. Plus it'll be bazillion times better than that duplicolor paint shop stuff.

If you are on the tightest budget in the world, then sure go for spray cans all the way and maybe splurge for the spraymax clear....But if you go with a true basecoat, the color selection is going to be a BILLION times better! You can pick most any factory car color out there! (Except white pearls and some red pearls they are tri-coats)

No matter what you do, whatever fits your budget. THE most important thing is prep work, I can't stress that enough.

Freaky1 · « **Reply #38 on:** November 13, 2009, 07:37:39 AM »

Thanks for the link, already saved it to my Favs. I grew up around a family friend's backyard shop that eventually became a full blown body shop and so I know a little about paint, not so much about new paint stuff though. In a year or so I plan to tear the bike down again and dump a boatload into the motor and I'm sure I still won't have a compressor that is worth a damn so that sprayer will come in mighty handy. There have been so many changes in paint and paint products in the last 30 years, but the one thing my dad and our friend told me then and still hasn't changed is prep work is at least 90% of a good paint job, right on Mr. ColinMc.
There is nothing wrong with being a snob if you know what your talking about.

ColinMc · « **Reply #39 on:** November 13, 2009, 07:54:27 AM »

Thing about those disposable sprayers is they work OK for what they are...spray about the same as an average quality spray can...but for smaller stuff they work fine. I wouldn't want to do a whole hood or door for a car with one lol.

Freaky1 · « **Reply #40 on:** November 13, 2009, 08:25:53 AM »

I've got a 1964 Starfire Convertable sitting in the space next to my bike patiently waiting and I say without flinching that I will not even attempt to do the paint on it, like Mr. Eastwood said "Every man has got to know his limitations", and yea, I know mine.

bucky katt · « **Reply #41 on:** November 14, 2009, 09:47:39 AM »

i used the blue for the frame and silver for gas tank and sidecovers. pics are on the hard drive that crashed. i sure hope i can salvage at least my pics and over 7,000 mp3's

Freaky1 · « **Reply #42 on:** November 14, 2009, 10:15:42 AM »

There are lots of ways to recover hard drives, just depends on how bad the crash was and if it is physically functional at all.

bucky katt · « **Reply #43 on:** November 14, 2009, 11:12:53 AM »

theres a physically damaged section according to spinrite, the dell utility and one from microsoft. i found a new hard drive, WD scorpio 320 gig for 56.99. as soon as i can get some more stuff sold.

Freaky1 · « **Reply #44 on:** November 14, 2009, 02:38:39 PM »

There are a few ways that you could get your data off, the damaged sections might be lost but maybe not. If you can get your computer started and get on any type of network with another computer or linked directly to another computer you can just transfer everything over. It is also possible to attach a external hard drive and dump it all in there, but being tight on funds buying more stuff is not really an option. If it is a desktop you have other options that you can do, laptops on the other hand limit your possibilities. There are also data recovery programs that you would be able to burn everything to disks, but maybe you already know all this.

bucky katt · « **Reply #45 on:** November 14, 2009, 04:40:50 PM »

i had a 40 gig hd laying about i can put the os and a couple of things on it. with vista and a couple of my burner programs i'm about maxed out. looks like theres a bad sector in the sounds file, somewhere in the 7765 mp3's on my machine

Rocking-M · « **Reply #46 on:** November 14, 2009, 06:02:12 PM »

Lacquer, I loved it back in the day and still would if I could find it reasonably priced. I hear tell
it's out the but hard to get. A good lacquer job color sanded and buffed really had great depth.

Now, after different base clear suppliers, I'm sold on DuPont Chromabase and Chroma Clear. Great stuff.
Just painted the hard top for the Spider last weekend with Chroma clear over a black base. Color sanded with
1500 on wednesday and buffed it to a nice finish.

Here is the deer duck with Duc Red Chroma base and clear on top.

78whiteorbs · « **Reply #47 on:** November 14, 2009, 06:12:11 PM »

Rocking-M ,looks quite excellent. What did you shoot it with and where'd you get your paint? I was in the mountains the other day! Stone Mountain near Elkin, NC Beautiful Country! Beautiful!!!!

Rocking-M · « **Reply #48 on:** November 14, 2009, 06:17:50 PM »

Car Quest here in Christiansburg, VA actually mixes the DuPont systems. It cost a bit more than
the Omni systems another paint only supplier has. Check with your local Car Quest but they all are different.
The one closest to me in Floyd VA uses so thing like Sherwin Williams

.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #49 on:** November 15, 2009, 07:09:48 PM »

Quote from: Freaky1 on November 13, 2009, 03:56:15 AM

Sorry about that, camera takes some HUGE pictures.

Great paint job mate, looks fantastic! I've got thousands of dollars worth of compressors, guns etc, and I've painted cars and bikes for many years, but I'm always impressed with the rattle can jobs that some folks have achieved with excellent preparation, like yours.

I personally don't think there is anything wrong with Holts products, and once again, I was impressed with their website, particularly their video "how to" section, "cheap arse" paint manufacturers don't go to the trouble that these guys do, and I'd be happy to use their products in future.

Rattle cans are ideal for motorcycle paint jobs, and an excellent result like yours can be achieved for very little $$$ outlay. Providing that the product is good quality (which from my experience with Holts is quite good) then I'd recommend it to anyone interested in a budget paint job.

Blowing a plastic sidecover or headlight bucket around a booth with a paint gun set up for 40 psi is no fun, nor is hanging it from a wire and trying to swing with it to get an even coat. While a paint gun setup is great for larger items, rattle cans are a great medium (in my opinion) for motorcycle paint jobs. Here's one I did earlier. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=32283.0 Cheers, Terry.

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Author Topic: Duplicolor Paint Shop System paints (Read 21990 times)

Rocking-M

Rocking-M