Topic: 750k0 Tach

[martini]

Does anyone out there know if there is any difference between the K0 (non sandcast) tach and later k models? Anyone have a tach they want to sell?

[Bob Wessner]

According to the parts list, there was no change to the tach assembly until the K1 model.

[Jonesy]

The K0 Tach had the redline at 8500 RPM, the lens was made from clear plastic and the gauge face was a greenish color, if I remember right. The later tachs had the redline at 8000 RPM, glass lenses (if brake fluid got on the plastic it would destroy it) and the gauge faces were changed to flat black to avoid glare.

[Bob Wessner]

I guess I didn't word the reply very well, yes, there is a difference, the first change took place with the K1, otherwise whether it is sandcast or not, the same tach was used for all K0's and are as Dan describes.

[martini]

Thanks guys. Sounds like I can make use of a later model tach if those are the only changes. The size would be the same?

[Terry in Australia]

The K1/K2 tach (and speedo) will fit your top tripe tree, the later ones won't. K1 gauges would be better, because the "idiot lights" are mounted in the K1 gauges, just like the K0's. I just sold a K0 tach on Ebay and almost fainted when I saw how much people are willing to pay to keep their bikes original! Cheers, Terry.

[martini]

Gulp! Looks like I'm after a K1 or K2. Actually what I need for the K0 model  is the plastic body housing the tach and the lens, don't suppose you have any of those kicking around Terry?

[Terry in Australia]

Aw geez mate, I just threw a NOS one out! Oh, wait a minute, I'm lying, ha ha! No mate, I don't have any K0 stuff and I'm not a "dealer", I just had that thing kicking around, I knew it was worth maybe 100 bucks, but I had a "brown moment" when it sold for $359! Cheers, Terry.

[Bob Wessner]

If you find one on eBay, it will likely be advertised as "sandcast" which could drive the price up. On the one hand, it is true, but on the other it's use is not limited to sandcasts only. But you only need one bidder trying to restore a sandcast to drive the price into the stratosphere.

[martini]

There in lies the problem. I've seen a couple "sandcast" tachs on e-bay recently going for even more than you sold yours for. Thats why I was asking about K1 and K2 tachs. I will probably swap my K0 instruments for a K1 or K2 and put the originals in a box somewhere until I can find the parts I need. My K0 is a rider so putting the original parts in a box is probably better anyway come resale day (should that day ever arrive).

[elisent]

The only difference is in the head where the throttle or tach cable attach. Diecast KO is smooth and has a visable seam. Sandcast are rough with no seam. Sandcast heads were used later than sandcast cases. Early diecast 750s can have these sandcast parts at the speedo ,tach and front wheel.

[MikeDeB]

The K0 Tach had the redline at 8500 RPM, the lens was made from clear plastic and the gauge face was a greenish color, if I remember right. The later tachs had the redline at 8000 RPM, glass lenses (if brake fluid got on the plastic it would destroy it) and the gauge faces were changed to flat black to avoid glare.

Actually, the K0 guages had black dials with blueish green numbers/letters and the redline at 8500.  K1 through K5 had the very dark green dials with white numbers/letters and redline at 8000.

[MikeDeB]

There in lies the problem. I've seen a couple "sandcast" tachs on e-bay recently going for even more than you sold yours for. Thats why I was asking about K1 and K2 tachs. I will probably swap my K0 instruments for a K1 or K2 and put the originals in a box somewhere until I can find the parts I need. My K0 is a rider so putting the original parts in a box is probably better anyway come resale day (should that day ever arrive).

K1 gauges will work on the K0s with no problems.  K2s will also work but will lack the warning lights.  In order for the K2 gauges to work on your bike you'd have to get the handlebar clamp with the warning lights.  K3 and later will not work unless you replace the upper triple clamp with a K3 or later as the instruments mounted differently and get the handlebar clamp with the warning lights.

[Bob Wessner]

The only difference is in the head where the throttle or tach cable attach. Diecast KO is smooth and has a visable seam. Sandcast are rough with no seam. Sandcast heads were used later than sandcast cases. Early diecast 750s can have these sandcast parts at the speedo ,tach and front wheel.

Hi Eli,

Glad to see you posting again.. been a while. I always learn something from your posts.

[elisent]

Hi Bob, I'm back off the road and have more time to play. I may have been out of sight but still lurked from the road. Not many of us around who really care about these little details. As these early Asian bikes become more collectable these details will become more important.  Riding them is still the most important detail. I'll contact you off list, but we found a way to totally eliminate old anodizing to get a better finish when parts are redone.

[Bob Wessner]

we found a way to totally eliminate old anodizing to get a better finish when parts are redone.

Eli,

Sounds interesting, look forward to hearing more.