Topic: Oil from front sprocket area

[MCRider]

About the chain oiler being on all model 750Ks:

My daily driver is a 78 K8 and it doesn't have the chain oiler. Thanks for the excellent pic, now I know where it is supposed to be. There is a solid bolt holding the drive sprocket.

I also have an engine here that is awaiting rebuilding from a 77 (K7?). It too has a solid bolt holding the drive sprocket.

The chain oiler sounds like it would be a neat thing to have and I suppose that I should pull the sprocket off and look down the hole to see if there is an oil passage there. I'm guessing the chain oiler is something that I could add?

Can anyone else confirm that K7 K8 did NOT have the chain oiler? Perhaps my two engines had the chain oiler removed.

Thanks.

I don't have time at the moment to look it up on a microfiche, I suggest going to motogrid.com or equivalent. But didn't the K7/K8 change to a 630 Oring chain? ORing chains require little maintenance and cleaning is more important than oiling. Hence no auto oiler?

On the older bikes Honda thought something better than nothing, leaving oiling up to the owner was risky. But hot crankcase oil being slung out in a rather haphazard manner is less than optimal. Which is why so many of us chose to turn it off as best we could and do our own maintenance. Nowadays a 530 ORing chain is the way to go. IMO

There are auto oilers for ORing chains, ScottOiler is popular.  http://www.scottoiler.com/

[kghost]

"I glue them in."

I am not trying to be difficult but why does the seal need to be glued in?  Maybe I should explain my situation.  I am doing a top end on a CB750.  I do not want to split the cases.  The bike runs well and there were no transmission issues.  While degreasing the motor for paint I used lacquer thinner which ran all over that countershaft seal as I was cleaning the gunk off the cases.  I am assuming the seal is toast because of its contact with lacquer thinner.  It didn't leak before hand.  I just want to be sure I can change out the countershaft seal without splitting the cases.  So far I have 2 you have to split the cases and 2 no you don't.  If the seal does not have a lip on the inside then I don't see why I would need to split the cases, but if the seal is so loose fitting that it needs to be glued in, then maybe I should split the cases.  Any help on this would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Scott

If the seal is loose enough you have to glue it in....splitting the cases won't help.


Frankly I glued mine in because the original one came out

[cookindaddy]

MCRider > But didn't the K7/K8 change to a 630 Oring chain?

I think that's it. Both of my engines use 630 Oring chain, hence no chain oiler.

Thanks

[MCRider]

MCRider > But didn't the K7/K8 change to a 630 Oring chain?

I think that's it. Both of my engines use 630 Oring chain, hence no chain oiler.

Thanks

There you go. Cleaning is important. A little shot of your favorite chainwax or equivalent to lube the chain to sprocket interface once in a while. Keeps things much cleaner than with the old oiler, it was a g-- awful mess.

[bistromath]

If it doesn't leak, don't replace the seal. That's the best you can do.