Topic: Using SprayMax for the first time

[Sheik Yerbouti]

I've been reading a lot about spraymax as a fuelproof clearcoat over other spray paints. I also read that sometimes it doesn't react well with certain paints. Since I have a lot of bondo on the tank I was going to do a primer and a top coat, then do the spraymax. I was going to just do Rustoleum primer and white paint. Should I use matte rustoleum instead of gloss because the clear makes it glossy?

Plan was:

Prime Tank
Sand (220?)
Matte White
Wet Sand (320?)
Spray Max
Fine wet sand (what grit?)
Buff, wax, etc.

I'm pretty new to painting/bad at it, so I want to do it right the first time. Thanks for your help.

[Sheik Yerbouti]

Crap. Can somebody move this to the correct forum?

[the technological J]

Plan was:
Prime Tank
Sand (220?) 320
Matte White
Wet Sand (no320?)600, 800, 1000 1500
Spray Max
Fine wet sand (what grit?)600 800 1000 1500 2000
Buff, wax, etc.
just my opinion it worked for me id do a couple coats of white

[Alan F.]

Good thread, it'll be good to find out just what paints are compatible with Spraymax and which are not.
-Alan

[fishhead]

I've been reading a lot about spraymax as a fuelproof clearcoat over other spray paints.

A fuel proof clear coat is great.

 The only problem is that your under coats (primer, color coats) usually arent fuel proof. If you take the primer and color coats all the way to your fuel filler opening, the gas will/may/could react with the coats that aren't fuel proof.
 The trick is to seal the under coats in with the fuel proof clear so the gas won't come in contact with them.

 Tape up the fuel filler about 1/4 inch from the opening and prime. Sand and when you go to put the color coat on, move the tape line up about 1/8 of an inch. Sand and when you get ready to put the clear on move the tape line up a little more and spray. This way, the under coats (primer, color) are completly sealed in with the fuel proof clear and there should be no way for the gas to come in contact with the under coats that may not be so fuel resistant.
 The 1/4 inch and 1/8 inch are just estimates, but I think you'll get the general idea of what to do.
 

[Ogri]

I've just finished polishing the lacquer on my tank (see 'Ebay Project Bike' thread). I used 2000 grit wet and dry 'til I had a matt finish to the lacquer then went over it with T-cut on a very soft cloth. I think it needs a wax of some kind now, I'm open to recommendations.

[the technological J]

 Re: Good automotive grade spray paint?
« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2009, 11:30:55 pm » Quote Modify Remove  

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i tried the rusto method mentioned above if u have the time to let it cure you could use what ever type of paint u want and sand it to a flawless finish then buff it out with rubbing compound then polishing compound then wax it with some high quality wax (mcguires is my choice)  

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[Sheik Yerbouti]

I've been reading a lot about spraymax as a fuelproof clearcoat over other spray paints.

A fuel proof clear coat is great.

 The only problem is that your under coats (primer, color coats) usually arent fuel proof. If you take the primer and color coats all the way to your fuel filler opening, the gas will/may/could react with the coats that aren't fuel proof.
 The trick is to seal the under coats in with the fuel proof clear so the gas won't come in contact with them.

 Tape up the fuel filler about 1/4 inch from the opening and prime. Sand and when you go to put the color coat on, move the tape line up about 1/8 of an inch. Sand and when you get ready to put the clear on move the tape line up a little more and spray. This way, the under coats (primer, color) are completly sealed in with the fuel proof clear and there should be no way for the gas to come in contact with the under coats that may not be so fuel resistant.
 The 1/4 inch and 1/8 inch are just estimates, but I think you'll get the general idea of what to do.
 

Thanks, I wouldn't have done this otherwise.

Anybody ever use spraymax with an incompatible paint? Did it just wrinkle up? And just to reiterate because I'm still not sure, should I use matte white to give the clearcoat something better to stick to? Or should I just do gloss for the color coat and use the glossy clear?

[Alan F.]

A fuel proof clear coat is great.
 The only problem is that your under coats (primer, color coats) usually arent fuel proof. If you take the primer and color coats all the way to your fuel filler opening, the gas will/may/could react with the coats that aren't fuel proof.
 The trick is to seal the under coats in with the fuel proof clear so the gas won't come in contact with them.
 Tape up the fuel filler about 1/4 inch from the opening and prime. Sand and when you go to put the color coat on, move the tape line up about 1/8 of an inch. Sand and when you get ready to put the clear on move the tape line up a little more and spray. This way, the under coats (primer, color) are completly sealed in with the fuel proof clear and there should be no way for the gas to come in contact with the under coats that may not be so fuel resistant.
 The 1/4 inch and 1/8 inch are just estimates, but I think you'll get the general idea of what to do.

This might be a good bit of info for the FAQ...

[fishhead]

I've been reading a lot about spraymax as a fuelproof clearcoat over other spray paints.

A fuel proof clear coat is great.

 The only problem is that your under coats (primer, color coats) usually arent fuel proof. If you take the primer and color coats all the way to your fuel filler opening, the gas will/may/could react with the coats that aren't fuel proof.
 The trick is to seal the under coats in with the fuel proof clear so the gas won't come in contact with them.

 Tape up the fuel filler about 1/4 inch from the opening and prime. Sand and when you go to put the color coat on, move the tape line up about 1/8 of an inch. Sand and when you get ready to put the clear on move the tape line up a little more and spray. This way, the under coats (primer, color) are completly sealed in with the fuel proof clear and there should be no way for the gas to come in contact with the under coats that may not be so fuel resistant.
 The 1/4 inch and 1/8 inch are just estimates, but I think you'll get the general idea of what to do.
 

Thanks, I wouldn't have done this otherwise.

Anybody ever use spraymax with an incompatible paint? Did it just wrinkle up? And just to reiterate because I'm still not sure, should I use matte white to give the clearcoat something better to stick to? Or should I just do gloss for the color coat and use the glossy clear?

 Use the glossy color and glossy clear. Usually the flat color coats have flattening agents added in them and the flattening agents can sometimes affect how the finished paint job looks.
   Sand the color coat with 400/600-ish and it should provide the needed "roughness" for the clear to stick to.
 Incompatible paints usually cause the wrinkle-ing. I dont know if the paints that you are using are compatible with each other , but the best way to find out is paint a scrap peice of metal the same way you will be painting the tank (prime,sand,color,sand,clear) to see if there would be and reactions with the prooducts that you are using. I usually stay with the same paint type (enamel,urathane,etc) and I try to stay with the same paint mfg. too.
 I'm not familiar with too many spray bombs as I paint all my stuff with a spray gun.