Author Topic: Disassembly of gauges (Read 64783 times)

Brown Bomber · « **Reply #100 on:** January 15, 2011, 05:39:34 AM »

Quote from: Vintage Esquire on January 14, 2011, 08:04:53 PM

I was able to carefully split the gauges with a screwdriver/paint can technique. I have a speedo with the trip reset button. How do I remove the trip reset knob in order to separate the two halves of the speedo? Does the knob just pull straight off?

Should be a small set screw on the knob. Probably pretty stiff after all these years, so some liquid wrench might help.

MCRider · « **Reply #101 on:** January 15, 2011, 06:31:03 AM »

Quote from: Ready Steady Brown Bomber on January 15, 2011, 05:39:34 AM

Quote from: Vintage Esquire on January 14, 2011, 08:04:53 PM
I was able to carefully split the gauges with a screwdriver/paint can technique. I have a speedo with the trip reset button. How do I remove the trip reset knob in order to separate the two halves of the speedo? Does the knob just pull straight off?
Should be a small set screw on the knob. Probably pretty stiff after all these years, so some liquid wrench might help.

I think it is threaded on, but its a reverse thread.
http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/speedo/spedo2.htm

Brown Bomber · « **Reply #102 on:** January 15, 2011, 07:06:31 AM »

Quote from: MCRider on January 15, 2011, 06:31:03 AM

Quote from: Ready Steady Brown Bomber on January 15, 2011, 05:39:34 AM
Quote from: Vintage Esquire on January 14, 2011, 08:04:53 PM
I was able to carefully split the gauges with a screwdriver/paint can technique. I have a speedo with the trip reset button. How do I remove the trip reset knob in order to separate the two halves of the speedo? Does the knob just pull straight off?
Should be a small set screw on the knob. Probably pretty stiff after all these years, so some liquid wrench might help.
I think it is threaded on, but its a reverse thread.
http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/speedo/spedo2.htm

Here's the Set Screw on the trip meter of my 750K2

MCRider · « **Reply #103 on:** January 15, 2011, 07:30:19 AM »

Yes, RSBB. It appears the knobs that come out the back are held by the set screw. The knobs that come out the side as in that article i linked, are reverse threaded. Don't know at which model they changed.

Or maybe the link I provided, while it says "CB" is not for CB750s specifically?

Brown Bomber · « **Reply #104 on:** January 15, 2011, 03:04:08 PM »

Quote from: MCRider on January 15, 2011, 07:30:19 AM

Yes, RSBB. It appears the knobs that come out the back are held by the set screw. The knobs that come out the side as in that article i linked, are reverse threaded. Don't know at which model they changed.

Or maybe the link I provided, while it says "CB" is not for CB750s specifically?

I see what you mean Ron.

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #105 on:** January 15, 2011, 07:35:55 PM »

Does anyone have the pics that started this thread? Thanks! RR

MCRider · « **Reply #106 on:** January 16, 2011, 05:53:54 AM »

Quote from: Ricky_Racer on January 15, 2011, 07:35:55 PM

Does anyone have the pics that started this thread? Thanks! RR

If they don't show up, I've got good alternates.

Johnie · « **Reply #107 on:** January 17, 2011, 06:54:37 AM »

When I picked up this K1 in 2008 I reworked the gauges. Then that phantom oil slick started to show itself on my new faces. Since I have the front end off I thought I would go in there again and clean it up. Sure comes apart easier the 2nd time with the paint can opener. Gets me to wonder if that oil is from the cable lube even though I kept it 6-8 inches down the cable from the gauges? I hope it has played itself out. It took WD40 to get the oil off without damage to these Yamiya faces.

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #108 on:** January 17, 2011, 11:44:48 AM »

Quote from: MCRider on January 16, 2011, 05:53:54 AM

Quote from: Ricky_Racer on January 15, 2011, 07:35:55 PM
Does anyone have the pics that started this thread? Thanks! RR
If they don't show up, I've got good alternates.

Thanks, Mac! I guess you might as well post 'em if you've got 'em. I've been looking for a jeweler's/watchmaker's case knife. I think it might work as well. RR

SF · « **Reply #109 on:** January 17, 2011, 11:55:15 AM »

ANY CHANCE POSTING THE PICS AGAIN ?

MCRider · « **Reply #110 on:** January 17, 2011, 11:57:18 AM »

Here goes:

with the ring peeled back all the way around, it can be pushed down off its perch

The housing comes off easily. There is a rubber seal between the black housing and the metal base, but it did not seem to have any sealer on it and offered no resistance, it stays with the housing and if you don't disturb it it should stay put. To get the needle off, I'd read, use a dinner fork, get the tangs under the needle and the heel of the fork can rest on the top of one of the screws that holds the face on. An easy pry and the needle lifts off.

Not much to it really. I had to supplement the paint can opener with increasing thicknesses of screwdrivers. I think a shim behind the paint can opener would work well, but hard to hold. Took me about an hour to pry the ring off, but i was being super cautious. You have to pry a little past the point where you want to be, then the metal relaxes back to where you want to be. And you can't do it all in the first pass. From what I've read its a 15 min job. I'm going to practice on a few more and hone my technique.

Cutting the ring is certainly faster, and JB Welding it back. The rubber mounting ring hides many sins. Ultimately I'll be doing it on a virgin NOS tachometer and if i can master the prying technique i really don't want to take a cutting wheel to that instrument.

To replace the ring, use a duck bill needle nose, or other broadbill pliar. Pad the jaws, especially on the side of the ring that shows. Use a rolling movement of squeezing and prying to close the ring up again.

MCRider · « **Reply #111 on:** January 17, 2011, 12:14:16 PM »

The key to not messing up the ring is to resist twisting the tool, if a screwdriver foir example, as that will put a crease in the soft metal ring. Always pry with the flat of the can opener/ screwdriver whatever, then move a little, pry again, move a little, pry again, rinxe and repeat. You can see in my picture, a shim between the body of the instrument and the tool would help in prying the ring off.

I just thought, maybe wrapping a hose clamp(s) around the housing would give the tool some more leverage

Vintage Esquire · « **Reply #112 on:** January 17, 2011, 11:16:05 PM »

I didn't see a set screw on the actual knob, so I think I ended up doing it the hard way! I took the entire trip meter apart and slid the knob post completely out. I put it all back together and it works, but I wouldn't recommend doing it that way if you don't have to. Very informative post...

SF · « **Reply #113 on:** January 18, 2011, 05:35:38 AM »

thanks MC! I can do this!

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #114 on:** January 27, 2011, 05:34:05 PM »

Thanks, MC. They gave me a couple of these openers at the hardware store today! I'm gonna polish the ends down and slightly round the corners.

RR

nomad · « **Reply #115 on:** February 05, 2011, 08:01:00 AM »

If you're restoring your gauges and are trying to get out for as little money invested in them as possible, skip this post...

I found these rings made by Joker Machine that will make reassembly a lot easier. And they're a pretty good idea if you don't necessarily need the stock look for the housings. It also makes getting the stock trim rings off easier because you don't need to be nearly as gentle removing them seeing as they won't be reused. And honestly, after looking at the sharp edges of the stock rings after getting them off, I was concerned about them scratching the new paint on the covers when I tried to put them back together.

I've got a set of these on order (backorder actually - for about 3 to 4 weeks). They're pretty damn pricey ($100), but I think in the long run will be worth the splurge. I can't wait to get them!

http://www.jokermachine.com/itemcafe2004.asp?ItemID=787&CategoryID=85&Placeholder=

HedNut · « **Reply #116 on:** March 08, 2011, 11:23:07 AM »

OOoo! Those are sexy gauge clamps! If I had an extra hundred smackers....

CBGBs · « **Reply #117 on:** July 23, 2011, 04:51:26 PM »

I put the photos back up. Sorry about the watermark.

bjatwood · « **Reply #118 on:** August 29, 2011, 08:01:10 PM »

I will be using this thread as a reference for my gauges when I do the "red line" redo piece that is being made for the 750's. My gauges are nice but that orange/pink red zone aint cool!

srbakker · « **Reply #119 on:** January 21, 2012, 04:46:57 PM »

This post has been invaluable for my own project - many thanks, and pics to follow. How do you guys manage to press the needles back down on the gauges so they sit flat like they were before I took them off to paint?

mono · « **Reply #120 on:** April 16, 2012, 06:01:50 AM »

Quote from: Johnie on October 05, 2009, 05:16:26 PM

What are you guys using to paint the cases? Regular Rustoleum flat black, semi gloss or gloss? I have to do a pair of K4's this winter.

I recently performed this "prying the ring off" operation so I could disassemble and repaint the cases - did one and used a DupliColor Honda Black -- It's a darn close match to the original.

For reassembly, I used flat-nosed jewelry pliers (no teeth), and was able to work around the edge slowly until the ring clamped back down. looks pretty good.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #121 on:** April 16, 2012, 11:10:40 AM »

Guys,

I'm restoring my 75 750F. I managed to find a NOS chrome backing plate for a speedo. Turns out it is almost identical but will work fine. Problem is.... it is for a 500, 550, & 750 K3 - K5. It has a larger hole ~ 20.5mm for the wiring to go through than my bike does and the "grommet" on my wiring is too small to fit the larger hole. Anyone have a spare rubber grommet for a 20.5mm hole that they can donate to my cause??

Ichiban 4 · « **Reply #122 on:** April 16, 2012, 09:59:10 PM »

Quote from: Jerry Rxman Griffin on April 16, 2012, 11:10:40 AM

Guys,

I'm restoring my 75 750F. I managed to find a NOS chrome backing plate for a speedo. Turns out it is almost identical but will work fine. Problem is.... it is for a 500, 550, & 750 K3 - K5. It has a larger hole ~ 20.5mm for the wiring to go through than my bike does and the "grommet" on my wiring is too small to fit the larger hole. Anyone have a spare rubber grommet for a 20.5mm hole that they can donate to my cause??

______________________________________________

Jerry..

They make those grommets in all kinds of ID & OD dimensions. I just go down to my local ACE Hardware..and they usually have what I need. Has to be one of the larger full-service ACE places I've found tho.

Cheers..

Al/Ichi

mono · « **Reply #123 on:** April 17, 2012, 07:22:09 AM »

Jerry,

Can you post a link to those NOS chrome backers? mine are both rusted nearly through and i would love to replace them - ebay has proven pretty useless for anything in much better shape.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #124 on:** April 17, 2012, 10:02:57 AM »

Really all depends on which bike you have. I see CB550 but I don't know 500, 550 or years or K or F's. Let me know and I'll see what I can find for you.

Last I checked, and it's been over the past 4 years or so that I've been collecting parts for this moment, I was able to only find 1 backer and the other is non-existent. This is of course for my 75/76 CB750F. The speedo backer I'm attempting to use is not precise for my F but only differs in the size of the hole for the electricals. I have however obtained both NOS gauges

The tach is 1 year specific and I found it at DSS. They had 4 or 5 and it wasn't even a bike that sold in Europe that year. The bike/tach was only made for 3+ months and I got it for $80+. I only found it by searching the part number. It may have come with the backer?? The speedo I got from JTMarks for ~$400. Probably the only NOS available in the world so I rationalized that the prices averaged out

I do have one spare NOS backer that fits but has this larger non-round hole that is just not right for my bike. Problem is I don't have a clue what model it is for.

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Author Topic: Disassembly of gauges (Read 64783 times)

nomad