Author Topic: Disassembly of gauges (Read 64811 times)

CBGBs · « **on:** September 07, 2009, 07:58:28 PM »

Find a paint can opener and grind the tip to a thinner spade end so you can hook it under the pressed chrome band that is keeping you out of your gauges. Oh, you may notice the cut cross section of innertube that can be used to replace your gauges rubber cushion. Bonus tip for the penny pincher set.
Work the opener in and gently pry up the edge of the chrome ring from the backside. I usually go around twice. The first just to get it started and the second time to pry it nearly vertical. I do this to avoid stressing the chrome which can cause it to tear. On the second round I pry out instead of up, using different angels and rocking the spade tip side to side to pry it away from the gauge body.
Then pop the chrome ring down.

I then pulled the gasket from the ring and it all is disassembled.

Needles will pop off by using two spoons to carefully pry the needle up and off the pin.

wannabridin · « **Reply #1 on:** September 07, 2009, 08:32:10 PM »

good instructions, and nice job using the macro setting on your camera! i wish people would learn about this everywhere else on the forum!!!

i used a ground down screwdriver, but the paint can opener is a much better way, as you can get useful leverage without tearing up your gauges. have you taken apart the speedo yet? careful with the trip knob!

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #2 on:** September 23, 2009, 07:34:17 PM »

Great tip! Have you found a good way to reinstall the ring and smooth out the edge? Thanks. RR

CBGBs · « **Reply #3 on:** September 25, 2009, 11:37:13 AM »

I don't have a great technique for assembly. Its not very difficult. I just use pliers and a cloth to protect the chrome. I wish I had some special tool, but they still seems to come out decent.

Johnie · « **Reply #4 on:** September 25, 2009, 11:57:10 AM »

Nice tip. I have done 8 of them with the screwdriver technique. Very time consuming. I like the tool idea you have here and will give it a try on my next project. Have you developed a way to get that ring compressed down again? I used a flat pliers and put some electrical tape on the ring to protect it. Not perfect, but dang close.

CBGBs · « **Reply #5 on:** September 26, 2009, 06:15:26 PM »

Thats as good as mine.

Otto · « **Reply #6 on:** September 26, 2009, 06:33:52 PM »

Makes me wish I disn't cut mine off with a wizzy wheel. Now I have the little gap that I wish I could fill in the chrome ring after cutting.

Any tricks for that?

bc

jsaab2748 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 26, 2009, 07:22:49 PM »

Quote from: Otto on September 26, 2009, 06:33:52 PM

Makes me wish I disn't cut mine off with a wizzy wheel. Now I have the little gap that I wish I could fill in the chrome ring after cutting.

Any tricks for that?

bc

Locate the cut in a location that will be almost impossible to see, like at the six oclock position
of the case. If gages are later style tilted guages, and the cut is small enough, it's barely noticeable. I did my k5 750 that way, and I have to search to see the gap.

Otto · « **Reply #8 on:** September 29, 2009, 05:35:09 AM »

The probelm that I have had is, when putting the ring back on and clamping it with a nice round hose clamp, the ends at the seam do not stay down. I have done mine 4 times now and get the cut seam to look good before glue , but when clamp is removed I get real unhappy. 2 part epoxy I'm using is, is 3M DP125. I have cleaned the chrome ring and speedo/tach head with laquer thinner before gluing up too. I am usually pretty good at this type of thing, but, I just cant seem to win this battle.... Yet.

I have 4 gauges that I need to do. Have lots of cut chrome rings. Would like to try your one piece method.

Would you happen to have any chrome rings available? I need 4!

thanks-

Bob

HondaMan · « **Reply #9 on:** October 03, 2009, 07:28:24 AM »

Thanks for the tip! I'm going to get one of those paint can openers. I have a customer's bike here with the tach needle floating around inside, was wondering about a good way to get in there: this should do.

Maybe I can make an anvil in my lathe that could be used to crimp the ring back down smoothly again, too. It will have to be steel, but with a nice finish and a big vise, it should work. Hmmm...

Otto · « **Reply #10 on:** October 05, 2009, 12:10:42 PM »

I tried the paint can opener! thats "slicker than a buttered fart".

Now I just need to come up with 3 good black outercases to replace the outa round ones that I have.

Thanks for the tip!

bc

Johnie · « **Reply #11 on:** October 05, 2009, 05:16:26 PM »

What are you guys using to paint the cases? Regular Rustoleum flat black, semi gloss or gloss? I have to do a pair of K4's this winter.

Otto · « **Reply #12 on:** October 05, 2009, 05:43:00 PM »

I used Rustolem Satin Black.

Mattched OEM very close if not exact.

bc

Johnie · « **Reply #13 on:** October 05, 2009, 07:17:17 PM »

Quote from: Otto on October 05, 2009, 05:43:00 PM

I used Rustolem Satin Black.

Mattched OEM very close if not exact.

bc

Thanks otto...satin black it shall be. Are you sanding and priming or just roughing it up and painting?

Otto · « **Reply #14 on:** October 06, 2009, 05:02:58 AM »

I clean first with simply green to get rid of any wax, dirt, grease, etc., as paint will not stick to it... then fill any dings. Prime then paint.

I have a propane stove in my shop. I usually let them sit on that and let em bake for an hour on low. Not too hot , like 150 degrees. Just something to make them cure very well.

Bob

Johnie · « **Reply #15 on:** October 06, 2009, 05:49:03 AM »

Quote from: Otto on October 06, 2009, 05:02:58 AM

I clean first with simply green to get rid of any wax, dirt, grease, etc., as paint will not stick to it... then fill any dings. Prime then paint.

I have a propane stove in my shop. I usually let them sit on that and let em bake for an hour on low. Not too hot , like 150 degrees. Just something to make them cure very well.

Bob

Thanks for the tips...

Tom in Newcastle......Ontario · « **Reply #16 on:** October 06, 2009, 06:15:24 AM »

Any tips on flattening the faces on gauges,I have a couple that look like the face was sun heated and the face sagged down..

Otto · « **Reply #17 on:** October 06, 2009, 06:55:02 AM »

Flattening the faces can be done if you are very careful.

I have done it by using a cake pan in the oven set on warm. place something flat on the bottom of the pan like a piece of glass then the gauge face then another piece of glass. Then set a brick on the top piece of the glass and let it sit for about 10 minutes... remove from the oven and let cool on a nice flt counter with the brick still on it.

DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! Be careful, this may or may not work in all cases. If you damage the gauge face don't scream at me... I did it because I had a couple of spares and wanted to know if it'd work.

Tom in Newcastle......Ontario · « **Reply #18 on:** October 06, 2009, 07:12:11 AM »

otto Thanks for that . Why would anyone scream at you

No one on the forum would give any one a hard time about anything.

j squared · « **Reply #19 on:** October 06, 2009, 07:16:34 AM »

Was at Home Depot yesterday and picked up a paint can opener after seeing this thread awhile back. I love free tools

Johnie · « **Reply #20 on:** October 06, 2009, 08:50:47 AM »

Here are a few pics of my gauges I did last year. The KO turned out better than I thought. The set of open gauges are my K1 and I was pleased with how they turned out too. But it was a pain to release the ring. I look forward to using that paint tool on my K4 gauges this winter. When closing the chrome ring I put heavy electrical tape on the ring to protect it from the flat pliers I used. Seemed to do the trick. Click the pic to enlarge it.

Otto · « **Reply #21 on:** October 06, 2009, 10:05:57 AM »

Those look great! Nice work.

Did you put on new appliques? (spelling sorry)... or are those the original faces.

I now have 4 tachs and 4 speedos for my 71 750K1 project , including one new old stock speedo. Kinda collected them over time. Going to refurb them all and use the best 2 for my bike...

I am looking for 3 new black outer cases if anyone has any. so I can finish them.

bc

Johnie · « **Reply #22 on:** October 06, 2009, 12:03:11 PM »

The gauge faces I bought from Yamiya for the KO & K1. The ones I am using for my K4 will come from a K4 parts bike I bought a month ago. It only had 4,600 miles on it and the gauges look new with no fading or warp. I got lucky with this parts bike. Lots of good stuff on it and came with a title.

Otto · « **Reply #23 on:** October 06, 2009, 12:13:25 PM »

One of the sets I have from a 71 - 750 are original but are more blue than green. All else is the same and they are original...

Any ideas why they may be different?

bc

Johnie · « **Reply #24 on:** October 06, 2009, 01:24:54 PM »

Quote from: Otto on October 06, 2009, 12:13:25 PM

One of the sets I have from a 71 - 750 are original but are more blue than green. All else is the same and they are original...

Any ideas why they may be different?

bc

Do you think they maybe faded to that color? I do see the Yamiya site has some blue/green sets. I wonder if your K1 was built close to the change over to the K2? Maybe that is why they are that color? Just a thought...

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Author Topic: Disassembly of gauges (Read 64811 times)

jsaab2748