I spent most of yesterday poring over a wiring diagram, I might be able to help.
Power goes into the ignition switch via the red wire, it exits via black, brown & brown and white wires.
I'd make (or buy) a test light using a 12V bulb. One wire soldered to the metal casing (ground) and one to the 'pip' at the bottom(live). Use a crocodile clip to attach the ground wire to a cylinder fin. The free end of the live wire should be bared and pointy.
With the ignition on, and the key switch block connector..connected, push the pointy end of the test lamp's live wire into the place where the red wire goes into the ignition switch's block connector on the loom side. Make sure that the test lead is actually touching the brass bit attached to the wire inside the connector. If the bulb lights then you have power going into the switch, (if it doesn't, see below.)
Now push the pointy end of the test lead into where the black wire exits on the same loom side of the block connector. If, with the ignition on, the test bulb lights then the switch is okay. If the test bulb doesn't light then the power isn't making it out the switch - the switch is faulty.
If there's no power going into the connector via the red wire then you'll need to go back to the battery and follow the + wire. First to the solenoid take-off, then to the fuse, then to the other side of the fuse etc. Sooner or later you'll get to the point where the bulb lights on one side of something but not the other.
It might be worth checking under the tank for crushed wires, giving the ignition key in the switch a good wiggle, taking off the headlamp glass and looking in the bowl etc. Test the fuses, just because you can see the central wire doesn't mean they're okay.