Author Topic: C-Hook Engine Removal & Rotisserie Engine Stand (Read 65336 times)

jaguar · « **Reply #50 on:** November 30, 2011, 08:23:02 am »

if you have a .edu email you can get solid works or auto cad free

Harsh · « **Reply #51 on:** November 30, 2011, 08:59:17 am »

Quote from: jaguar on November 30, 2011, 08:23:02 am

if you have a .edu email you can get solid works or auto cad free

Talk to me Goose.

While I don't have a .edu (I have a .mil) I have plenty of people that I work with that do have a .edu

Any links you can provide would be awesome.

jaguar · « **Reply #52 on:** November 30, 2011, 09:30:54 am »

Just go right to the sites of the programs

they all have "trial" periods that range from a year to 3 years

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #53 on:** November 30, 2011, 11:00:44 am »

Harsh,
I know I've got the modified file and I'll see if I can find the original (or recreate it) and save them to dxf format and you can choose the one you want. It would be this evening or tomorrow evening, depends on how much want-to I've got left when I get home.

Harsh · « **Reply #54 on:** November 30, 2011, 02:01:09 pm »

Quote from: madmtnmotors on November 30, 2011, 11:00:44 am

Harsh,
I know I've got the modified file and I'll see if I can find the original (or recreate it) and save them to dxf format and you can choose the one you want. It would be this evening or tomorrow evening, depends on how much want-to I've got left when I get home.

That would be awesome. I was looking at the pdf and noticed that the math was off on the top portion. On the left side it says that it is 5 3/8", but when you add the right side number up (7/8 + 3 1/2 + 7/8) you get 5 1/4". Not that it truly matters, I just find it a little funny that no one has mentioned this before.

Harsh · « **Reply #55 on:** December 05, 2011, 04:23:51 am »

Thanks to the work of a few folks here I now have a couple of .dxf files. The original and the modified version Blake posted a picture of on the first page. Unfortunatley, I can not attach them in the post. I had a buddy of mine that is an engineer at NASA run a simulation on them to test for safety/strength. The modified version is much stronger and since it uses less material it is the one I am going to use.

Original

Minimum factor of safety - 4.10
Maximum displacement - 0.00053 m

Modified

Minimum factor of safety - 7.44
Maximum displacement - 0.000065 m

70cbk0 · « **Reply #56 on:** December 05, 2011, 05:47:50 am »

I've made one these hooks (the square design). If you're thinking of going with the other design, I'd like to point out 2 things. Look at the pic I've uploaded from Blake's post. This is how that hook has to be to get the engine in there. The bottom of the hook has to be about even with the carb boots, or it will not go in. SO....make sure the angle of that new design does not hit the frame when putting the engine in. or you're in trouble. Also, if strength is your concern, I think I could lift the house with my hook! Just don't want you to make that and not have it work....

jaguar · « **Reply #57 on:** December 05, 2011, 06:52:44 am »

some one want to make a few of these?
i would buy one

Harsh · « **Reply #58 on:** December 05, 2011, 06:55:54 am »

I don't disagree with making sure their is enough space. I am going to try and make a mockup tonight out of cardboard. The current modified design has a throat height (from the top of the bottom hook to the bend) of 7 3/16". That should be enough clearance.

I will see how many my buddy would be willing to make. I am not sure if I will have to pay for materials or if he will be able to "acquire" some. However, I am willing to bet that it would be quite heavy to ship.

70cbk0 · « **Reply #59 on:** December 05, 2011, 11:27:38 am »

It's very heavy!

markb · « **Reply #60 on:** December 05, 2011, 11:41:17 am »

It should be right around 40 lbs. if it's made with 1" thick steel.

Harsh · « **Reply #61 on:** December 05, 2011, 12:04:20 pm »

From what I understand, the original and what I had the simulation done with was 1/2" steel.

70cbk0 · « **Reply #62 on:** December 05, 2011, 12:48:24 pm »

Yes, mines 1/2 steel, I'm guessing it weighs 15lbs.

jaguar · « **Reply #63 on:** December 05, 2011, 01:22:43 pm »

yeah i cant see needing anything more then 1/2
hell 1/2 is overkill

Harsh · « **Reply #64 on:** December 07, 2011, 01:26:28 pm »

Well I think my attempt to make one may be stalled. I have been looking for a piece of steel and the prices are outrageous. I am talking to the tune of $170 for a 2'x2' 1/2" thick piece. I stopped by a few fab shops and even a metal recycle place to see if they had any scraps and they didn't.

FWIW I had my buddy run the numbers on a 3/8" thick piece and it has a FOS of 5.43 in the modified drawing. That is still higher than the original and that was 1/2".

Harsh · « **Reply #65 on:** December 07, 2011, 01:57:10 pm »

I am a little upset and I needed to do something to ease my mind so I figured out what the same size sheet in gold would cost. I came up with $5,096,712.31 based on a rate of $1,742 lb. I guess the steel is a fair amount cheaper, but it still doesn't make me feel any better.

jaguar · « **Reply #66 on:** December 07, 2011, 02:16:01 pm »

I feel that $170 is are slightly....and by slightly i mean MASSIVELY....expensive price for the hook

Harsh · « **Reply #67 on:** December 07, 2011, 02:21:47 pm »

Yah, especially considering the OP had his made for $25. That is $25 for the materials and labor.

70cbk0 · « **Reply #68 on:** December 07, 2011, 07:57:11 pm »

My brother got mine made, he's a tool and die maker, but they had to shop it out, because they didn't do the cutting. I didn't really get a break on the price. I think it was either $60 or $80, I can't remember. But that engine is so damn heavy and it's such a ridiculous tight fit, I can't imagine the job without it. ( I know it can be done, but I doubt it's much fun)

verslagen1 · « **Reply #69 on:** December 07, 2011, 09:53:55 pm »

I don't have an immediate need for one of these, but seeing all this great work has given me an idea.
And maybe one of you guys will work it out.

The rotisserie stand has great potential to do all of the work.
Take the bolt on upright and bolt it to the stationary upright over the bottom leg to create a lifting arm that can be inserted through the frame over the engine. Instead of straps, use ratcheting tie downs to cradle the engine.
tighten the tie downs to lift the engine.

or use a bike lift to raise the engine in frame, strap it to the extracting rotisserie stand, unbolt it and lower the frame.

depends on what you got.

Harsh · « **Reply #70 on:** December 08, 2011, 12:58:30 pm »

OK here is a question...I can get two sheets of 1/4" steel for free. Would it be advisable to bolt two pieces of the 1/4" together to get the thickness I am looking for? I might be able to get the two pieces welded together as well.

70cbk0 · « **Reply #71 on:** December 08, 2011, 07:35:09 pm »

hmm, guessing welding would be stronger than bolting

verslagen1 · « **Reply #72 on:** December 08, 2011, 10:34:56 pm »

add extra material where you are bolting and go for it.

or bolt it in a non critical area, like at the ends of the "C"

Harsh · « **Reply #73 on:** December 09, 2011, 04:06:11 am »

My engineer buddy ran the numbers on bolting it together. It would have a FOS of 2.37. That equates to a failure load of 474 lbs. Yah, I think I am still good.

motocyconomad · « **Reply #74 on:** December 10, 2011, 10:23:07 am »

is there a drawing like with exact measurements and angles I work with waterjets

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Author Topic: C-Hook Engine Removal & Rotisserie Engine Stand (Read 65336 times)