Topic: Neutral Switch Removal

[Darrell]

I'm trying to get the netural switch out of my '78 750F to replace the o-ring around it (I think it's causing my oil leak). Only problem is, I can't figure out how to get that bolt out. It's directly above the frame, and it's not far enough away to fit a socket on. I can get a wrench, barely, but even after hitting it with some penetrating oil, it starts striping the head before the bolt moves at all. Suggestions? Am I going about this wrong? Here's some pics of the switch and bolt that holds it in, if needed:

Image 1
Image 2
Image 3
Image 4

Thanks for any help guys.

Darrell

[78 k550]

never messed with one. Try putting a 1/4 drive socket on the bolt and then attach some vise grips to the socket itself. See if you can get a bite on it that way? Thats all i have without ever messing with one. If you can get away with a 3/8 drive I would use it as it will have thicker sidewall.

Paul

[Darrell]

There's not enough room for a 1/4" to fit on there though.

[78 k550]

 
Might have to get out the tourch and convert a box end or something. Sorry not much help. just throwing things out.
Is it wall thinkness? or tight because the depth of the socket between the frame? shave the socket down.

Paul

[Darrell]

Tight because of the space between the head and the frame. I guess I could pick up a cheap 10mm socket and hack away at it. I thought someone might have a better idea though.

[Hop on a Honda]

Neutral switch.

[Hop on a Honda]

Opps.!!
The retaing bolt is usually relitively easy to remove . the wire is held in by a #2 phillips head and then the  neutral switch is then allows itself to be removed with a pair of long nose pointy pliers .
Just poke the two ends of the snipe nose pliers into the opposite holes in the switch itself and tighten the grip and pull. It should pop out. Make sure that there is a Oil catcher around even if you have already drained the oil. Could be a battle field dressing required.

Wash the switch out in white spirit and test the circut.
It's almost bullet proof.
Clean the orifice & replace the O ring on the switch if it hard or leaking put some good grease on the O ring and then push the switch back in and replace the screw and then the locking plate and retaining bolt.
Should work .
Yehaa .
I had the same problem.
 Once you have over come the fear of failure its easy.
Ask Me.
Dave
 Australia.

[Darrell]

Hmmm, I'll have to give that a shot Dave, thanks.

Any idea what the bolt right next to is for then?

[Darrell]

OK, so trying to either turn or pull the switch out with a set of needle nose pliers did nothing but start to crack the (I'm assuming) porcelain makeup of the switch itself. It looks like there's some sort of glue around the edge of the switch, but I can't tell for sure. Any other ideas on how to get it out?

[Lumbee]

...the neutral switch on my 78F has never worked...I spent an afternoon fiddling with mine, and finally gave up on it.  What symptoms are you having with u'rs?  Mine stays on all the time...

[jtb]

I disconnected mine!

John

[Darrell]

The actual switch is working fine... it's just the o-ring behind it that's leaking oil! It's the only leak the bike has, and even though it's a slow, slow drip, I really want to get it fixed, if only I can get the damn thing out!

I tried looking on my microfiche parts break out at the library today to see if it'd lend any insight to the situation, but it didn't. This seems so easy too...

[KB02]

Hmmm, I'll have to give that a shot Dave, thanks.

Any idea what the bolt right next to is for then?

The bolt is a retaining bolt. You will have to take that off first.

I have to dig into mine this winter. My neutral light stays on all the time. Anyone have any good ideas on what to look for on that?

[Darrell]

Hmmm, I'll have to give that a shot Dave, thanks.

Any idea what the bolt right next to is for then?

The bolt is a retaining bolt. You will have to take that off first.

That's what I figured. I can't get under it enough to get a real good uplclose look, but I didn't think I could just pull it out and leave that bolt in. Guess it's time to try grinding down a socket then...

[Hop on a Honda]

The neutral switch is only a sprung loaded ball and circut.Very basic indeed.
Most times it will be a little bit of swarth on the ball which will make the circut.
I washed mine out with petrol & cleaned the 14MM ? O ring then simply just cleaned the inside groove in the casing and popped it back in.
The Bolt should have a tab under it which becomes a retainer for the switch.
The Wire is simply retained by a screw. We all know what that is I hope!!
It /yours could be glued in by some butcher.
Cheers
Dave

[Darrell]

Just incase anyone stumbles across this and needs an answer... I got it out today. Trimming a 10mm socket won't work (can't get it short enough), but I got a 10mm wrench at Lowes for $10, where the head can bend to ~ 85 degrees. It worked great with some leverage from another wrench on it.

Now I just need to try cleaning it again since the netrual light stays on all the time!

[Hop on a Honda]

This is a IPB ( Independant Parts Breakdown) of the beloved Honda CB 750 engine gearbox carburettors etc.

All parts are exploded and the following page is the P/N #

http:cb750k2.tripod.com/P-engine/e19.gif

The Bolt 6mmx16mm
                                 #92000-06016
Rentention plate
 (seperate)                  #35754-300-020

"O" Ring                      #91311-044-000

Cheers
Dave