Topic: static timing questions

[apostrophe28]

so im readin the manual and it says to "connect one end to the point terminal and the other to the crank case" done and done so heres my issue:

-set the points to .14, they open and close fine when i rotate the crank.
-my multimeter shows conductivity all the way around, and when i loosen and turn the base plate the points stay how they are(seein as they're attached to the base plate)

im not sure how im suposed to time this the static way correctly!?

77' 750k

[HondanutRider]

Rotating the crank to open and close the points, you want to adjust the opening to start just where the "F" mark is for the appropriate point set.  To read that point static as the manuals describe, using a lamp, I believe you have to disconnect the wire to the points, otherwise there is still connectivity to ground through the coils, even if the points are open.  I never bother disconnecting any wires or using a lamp as described in the manuals.  What I do is connect a multimeter from ground/the frame to the points where the wire to it connects, and then I can read the resistance of the coils when the points open.  When the points are closed, there is negligible resistance being read, so you can see the needle of the meter jump just as the points start to open.  That position is set as described, by rotating the point base, to be exactly on the "F" mark.

[apostrophe28]

there is no F mark on my points base. its just the round plate that everything is bolted to. the points are attached to that plate so turning it left or right does nothing to the points but move the whole assembly in its whole around the crank nut


im really lost here

[magnum56]

The timing marks (F and T for 1-4 and 2-3) are viewed through the "sight hole" of the points base plate you describe rotating.  They are stamped on the spark advance mechanisum behind the plate.

You move the entire base plate to get the points for cylinders 1 & 4, (LH looking at the plate) adjusted correctly, and then adjust the movable points (RH) to adjust clyinders 2 & 3.

[HondanutRider]

The F-marks are on the end of the crank, and are visible through a hole on the base plate of the points as the motor is slowly rotated.  You have to look through the hole and line-up the 1-4 mark on the crank with the static marker when the 1-4 points are just opening.  There also is a corresponding mark for the 2-3 points.  (These numbers correspond to the respective cylinders - 1 & 4 fire together as do 2 & 3.  Although each paired cylinder share a spark, their combustion is 360 degrees apart so that each "wastes" a spark as the other is on a power stroke while one is on an intake stroke...probably too technical an explanation, so just ignore this last statement.)

Attached is a picture from the shop manual, showing this hole and the timing marks.  Perhaps this will help to find.

After adjusting and setting the gap for the points (i.e. how far they open at maximum)  you set the position for the timing (i.e. when the points open as the crank rotates) by rotating the base plate for the points - first the whole plate for 1 & 4 and then the sub-plate for 2 & 3.