Topic: having a annoying problem with trying to set my timing so i can start the bike

[jamesv220820]

ok its a cb350f hasn't been started in 4years , been working on it off and on tried starting it a couple weeks ago and nothing, carbs were overflowing so i ordered carb rebuilds and in the waiting on parts time i checked the points and timing .   i did the trick clymer manual suggests and grounded a 10wt 12v bulb and hooked the positive to the blue wire but couldn't get any light to flicker or turn on

heres what i have tried

- new battery
- 12v jump starter
- different size of fuses
- new points
- new capacitors

and bypassed the kill switch at this time i should say i can't tell a difference on the bypass when it is plug into the black wire, not plugged in at all, or grounded to the frame , but i have good spark all around


so something is telling me something is wrong with the timing or maybe i'm not doing it right , but i am going by the manual word for word unless its a misprint

i will be logged on for the next 6hours so if anyone has any ideas of this timing situation or things i can do to eliminate causes,  it would be greatly appreciated

i have spent about 1400 dollars on this bike to get her going some because or my mistakes others because like the points and capicitors being replaced who knows if they were bad but this thing is not starting and its started to make me feel like i never should or got myself into this mess


once again anything helps

many thanks

james

[ekpent]

OK-Lets start with the basics. Are you getting power,like is your neutral light on,headlight etc when you turn on your key? Have you attached a plug to a wire and grounded it off at some metal to see if you are getting spark yet??

[Spanner 1]

I think your points are shorted out....i.e. the capacitor and blue/ yellow wires connected to the points on the wrong side of the insulators. Can you make a spark by 'flicking' a closed point open ?? ( plugs in caps and sitting on the head ).

[jamesv220820]

OK-Lets start with the basics. Are you getting power,like is your neutral light on,headlight etc when you turn on your key? Have you attached a plug to a wire and grounded it off at some metal to see if you are getting spark yet??

nuetral light is on and i have checked the plugs i am getting good spark

[jamesv220820]

I think your points are shorted out....i.e. the capacitor and blue/ yellow wires connected to the points on the wrong side of the insulators. Can you make a spark by 'flicking' a closed point open ?? ( plugs in caps and sitting on the head ).

yes i have good spark and i just put in new points and capacitors in today

the blue wires from the caps and between the screw head and the insulation and the yellow is between the insulation washer and the metal washer

[TwoTired]

I use a 3 w instrument bulb for static timing.  I just soldered two wires to the bulb and put alligator clips on the wires.  I then clip this device across the point contacts, such as the points wire binding post, and something the is electrically common with the points base plate.

The lamp should be off when the points are closed and on when the points open.  The lamp should come on when the F mark lines up the reference mark on the engine case.  (Of course, the ignition must be on.)

Have you verified your lamp will come on when connected to the battery terminals? (This proves you test lamp.)

Since you have spark, the lamp should light if you you have connected it properly and the points truly open.  You just need to prove it occurs at the correct time.

Can you drain fuel from the float bowls? (Proving gas gets to all the carbs)

[jamesv220820]

I use a 3 w instrument bulb for static timing.  I just soldered two wires to the bulb and put alligator clips on the wires.  I then clip this device across the point contacts, such as the points wire binding post, and something the is electrically common with the points base plate.

The lamp should be off when the points are closed and on when the points open.  The lamp should come on when the F mark lines up the reference mark on the engine case.  (Of course, the ignition must be on.)

Have you verified your lamp will come on when connected to the battery terminals? (This proves you test lamp.)

Since you have spark, the lamp should light if you you have connected it properly and the points truly open.  You just need to prove it occurs at the correct time.

Can you drain fuel from the float bowls? (Proving gas gets to all the carbs)

yes i have tested the light directly to the battery and gas is going to the carbs

[jamesv220820]

ive never delt with points but they open to the specific gap when they are at 1,4 and 2,3 but when i continue rotaing the cam they open slightly more then close which i believe is normal

im just putting everything out there

[Gordon]

I might be able to come by for a little while tomorrow if you want some help.  Send me a PM if you do. 

[TwoTired]

ive never delt with points but they open to the specific gap when they are at 1,4 and 2,3 but when i continue rotaing the cam they open slightly more then close which i believe is normal

Ah, that's a problem.  The maximum gap is set at the high point off the points cam.  (This is NOT the F mark)
Part two- Then the plate or points set is rotated around the crankshaft so that they >just< open when the F aligns.

The points transitioning from closed to open is what fires the coils and makes a spark.  This is the timing that is important.
The maximum gap is what determines how long the coils are discharged, and conversely how long the coils get charged, storing energy, when the points are closed.

[jamesv220820]

I might be able to come by for a little while tomorrow if you want some help.  Send me a PM if you do. 

thats does sound great Gordon but i just bought a ticket to michigan i am gonna leave tomorrow night for camping and fishing and in 9 days when i return we will figure this out

[jamesv220820]

ive never delt with points but they open to the specific gap when they are at 1,4 and 2,3 but when i continue rotaing the cam they open slightly more then close which i believe is normal

Ah, that's a problem.  The maximum gap is set at the high point off the points cam.  (This is NOT the F mark)
Part two- Then the plate or points set is rotated around the crankshaft so that they >just< open when the F aligns.

The points transitioning from closed to open is what fires the coils and makes a spark.  This is the timing that is important.
The maximum gap is what determines how long the coils are discharged, and conversely how long the coils get charged, storing energy, when the points are closed.

so what are you saying , am i going to have to take the cam out? or set the points to a .4mm when the points open the most? but then that wouldn't make much sense because they say to set the points when f1,4 is at the peep hole

[Gordon]

I might be able to come by for a little while tomorrow if you want some help.  Send me a PM if you do. 

thats does sound great Gordon but i just bought a ticket to michigan i am gonna leave tomorrow night for camping and fishing and in 9 days when i return we will figure this out

You have an extra ticket?

Just let me know if you'd like some help when you get back.  Thursdays are usually best for me, but Friday and Saturday can work, too. 

[TwoTired]

ive never delt with points but they open to the specific gap when they are at 1,4 and 2,3 but when i continue rotaing the cam they open slightly more then close which i believe is normal

Ah, that's a problem.  The maximum gap is set at the high point off the points cam.  (This is NOT the F mark)
Part two- Then the plate or points set is rotated around the crankshaft so that they >just< open when the F aligns.

The points transitioning from closed to open is what fires the coils and makes a spark.  This is the timing that is important.
The maximum gap is what determines how long the coils are discharged, and conversely how long the coils get charged, storing energy, when the points are closed.

so what are you saying , am i going to have to take the cam out? or set the points to a .4mm when the points open the most? but then that wouldn't make much sense because they say to set the points when f1,4 is at the peep hole

No, you are misreading the instructions.  The points should open (light comes on) when f1,4 is at the peep hole.  Prior to that, you set the point gap for maximum opening when the cam is at the highest point.  This is actually part one of the points setting.  Part two of the point setting is rotating the points plate so the points open (light comes on) when f1,4 is at the peep hole.

The process is repeated for the 3.2 points, but the 2.3 points move on the big plate for the timing adjustment.