Author Topic: I've been K0'd! (Read 125911 times)

Don R · « **Reply #450 on:** March 07, 2018, 12:17:58 PM »

I have a Yamiya order on the way from JT marks.
I went through the carbs, the old black tank has the late petcock with no screen and at some point a little rust got washed into the bowls. I had filters on but apparently not all of the time. The ribbed airbox showed signs of fuel washing in so I rebuilt another petcock, again.
The last thing I want is fuel in a freshly painted airbox. I did add stop nuts to the wing bolts so the box can't be overtightened and squished. It's getting a chrome sprocket cover and then I'm pulling the forks for the headlight ear sap.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #451 on:** March 07, 2018, 05:21:11 PM »

Nice! I didn't know that there was a later Petcock with no screen Don, or do you mean it's a later tank with the petcock on the shifter side? Cheers, Terry.

Don R · « **Reply #452 on:** March 08, 2018, 09:30:20 PM »

Yes, Terry it is on the shifter side and it was missing the inside the tank part. I should have known better than use it but when you gotta ride you do what it takes. lol. It's really clean inside, I washed it out and fogged it today. No dents and no bondo it's a keeper.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #453 on:** March 08, 2018, 10:50:03 PM »

No worries Don, it's nice to have a tank with the same capacity it had when it rolled off the showroom floor!

Don R · « **Reply #454 on:** March 09, 2018, 10:47:25 AM »

And wrinkles!

Don R · « **Reply #455 on:** March 12, 2018, 02:09:19 PM »

I pulled the headlight and the gauges, next I need to drop the forks. I polished the top triple and don't like the look. I'm thinking black powder coat. This would also be a good time for the DSS K1 European handlebars. Waiting on my Yamiya order.

I gotta go, there's a box sitting out front. My wife says don't touch it but it's from Bill Benton with K1 stuff. woohoo!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #456 on:** March 12, 2018, 04:27:21 PM »

Quote from: Don R on March 12, 2018, 02:09:19 PM

I gotta go, there's a box sitting out front. My wife says don't touch it but it's from Bill Benton with K1 stuff. woohoo!

Christmas in March!!

Don R · « **Reply #457 on:** March 14, 2018, 08:38:41 PM »

I pulled the forks apart and the top triple is broken. I just got a spare from Bill Benton (must have esp) anyway, I was just sick and put it all away and went in the house.
I'm assuming the D washers aren't the proper thickness so I'm researching this now. The number that seems to come up is .090" I may go back out to check what was in there just so I can sleep. I remember making two out of head washers a long time ago but I was thinking this bike always had some in it.
My Yamiya order is on the way from JT, so I need to powder coat the two good unicorn triples that I have left and finish this forever project.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #458 on:** March 14, 2018, 10:40:05 PM »

Too bad you can't warm them up enough to seal the crack, but to do that you are going to need some molds as that liquid aluminum alloy is going to try and make a run for it.

Sorry for your loss Don...hope you can progress through the grieving process quickly. Imagine it cannot be tig'd given the thickness of the metal and amount of work to slowly bring it back to perfect shape would be huge. Wonder if Jim French has ever tried to weld one? Or? Is it a safety thing now?

David

RAFster122s · « **Reply #459 on:** March 15, 2018, 04:08:02 AM »

BTW Don, I can't view the images with my ancient PC...care to email them to me?
image it is very pretty all finished up...
David

Don R · « **Reply #460 on:** March 15, 2018, 04:13:42 PM »

The old triple killer washers are .086 thick, the ones that came in my Bill Benton triple are .090 thick. You wouldn't think the .004 difference would be a triple breaker but it, apparently coupled with my degree of torque applied is.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #461 on:** March 15, 2018, 05:57:13 PM »

I think those triples are prone to breaking whether the proper washers are there or not. If you see one and the washer is actually pinched, it is likely broken...so I don't see how the presence of the washer's, correct or not, make any difference.

Don R · « **Reply #462 on:** March 15, 2018, 09:01:22 PM »

I'm for sure using the inch lb, torque wrench going back on. If there was a CNC'd unicorn with heavy duty fork clamps for 2-3 hundred I'd probably buy one for this bike.

I never had the sandcast's tree off or I'd retorque it too. I'll let that sleeping dog lie.
It's really remarkable how little I've done to it besides cleaning the carbs and oil/ filters/ plugs, rear spokes, tires I still have the front but not mounted. I've painted the 1 nos, 1 used Honda sidecovers. The stock airbox isn't on it but it's here. One turn signal socket and bulb was rusty.
I'm going to paint some Frankenbike sidecovers with a yellow/silver base under the candy ruby red to try to match the tank's paint fade.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #463 on:** March 15, 2018, 11:15:43 PM »

The Unicorn triple was a bad design, not enough meat around the fork tubes, the gap was too wide, and the material it was cast from was too brittle. If Harley Davidson built one like that, they'd be reviled, but us Honda lovers seem to be able to forgive any of Honda's sins.

Interestingly enough, the Unicorn triple on my K2 bitsa has the D washer on one side, but there's not enough room for one on the other side, but it hasn't been repaired, could it have stretched? I've got a busted one here and the metal is very "crystalline" in appearance, but I've got both bits still, so once I've mastered my 8 year old TIG that I've never previously been able to master, I'll do a perfect weld and re-use it.

Before these triples were worth any money I had a few but sold them for not much or gave them away, but I've still got one here that someone's lopped the horn off? Maybe it would be safer to chop the horn off the broken one, and conduct a horn transplant? A "Horn-ectomy"? Or maybe a "Triple Bypass"?............

jaytee-nz · « **Reply #464 on:** March 16, 2018, 01:11:07 AM »

Terry, my unicorn tree was broken at the clamp too. I gave it to a welder at work with 25 years TIG experience and when he gave it back to me repaired, he told me it was the worst sh%t he had ever welded and he didn't want to ever see it again ! I think your description of the metal sounds accurate.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #465 on:** March 16, 2018, 02:54:23 AM »

The crystalline break is a type of fracture and it has been too long since materials class. A stretching break if I recall correctly gives that structure in the break, whereas shear will give a different look to the metal.

You might be better off as providing a 3D scan of a good triple to be able to import into CAD-CAM software to develop a CNC cut triple tree. It would require a bunch of cutting operations and a very fine ball mill to refine the surface after it was taken to a smooth surface with a larger ball mill with its limits reached. Then it would be put in a vibratory polisher to spend a week (joking) polishing and further smoothing that finish. After coming out of the polisher you rekey it to the CNC and I think I would bore a small center hole for the triple's for tubes and then after polished you reindex and then bore the triple tree for tube holes and any slots for the washers.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #466 on:** March 16, 2018, 03:14:50 AM »

Kingsport Public library offers free 3D printing training and has a 3D scanner that is no charge to use to be able to scan an object and then replicate it by 3d printing after editing the scan file and prepping that fire for the printer so it knows where to print or to provide the support tubes and or fill for an object or make it hollow. I intend to scan and print something for a friend but I have to make it first. It is for an RC airplane for a friend in England. A pair of scale Lewis guns in 1/11th scale for one of the WWI airplanes. Having to make the tubular gun mount for the gun in the gunner's position. Second gun goes on top of wing on a rail for reloading it retracts back and down to where the pilot can change the bullet cartridge canister holding the ammo.
The gunner sat on a basket like affair...he was not belted into place and a few gunners were ejected in combat apparently. No, not an ejection seat.

Don, yellow and silver? Or silver base with then yellow? Or, vice versa?

Thanks

David

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #467 on:** March 16, 2018, 03:32:26 AM »

Thanks David, the same suggestion was made on a CB750 FB forum, but the resident machinist said while he could do it, it'd cost a fortune to machine one from a solid billet of aluminum. My Gold K2 with the FZR1000 forks had a CNC machined set of triples, and I liked them so much I asked the guy who'd made them to make me another set, but baulked at the $1000 quote he gave me. Probably better to just buy a Yamiya repro.

Don R · « **Reply #468 on:** March 16, 2018, 08:38:23 AM »

Triple bypass, that a good one. I'm quite sure I overtighten them but it seems once the gap is closed what's the harm. (now I know) lol. Thanks for the lively discussion. I've considered welding a third onto two thirds but as long as I have one to use there's no sense getting too carried away.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #469 on:** March 16, 2018, 09:40:34 AM »

Another idea would be to find a sand casting foundry, or make your own with enough capacity to melt enough alloy at once...

You can melt down aluminum you buy from small cutoffs at metal shop of known alloy. If you need to add other metals to make the alloy have better strength, then that is added to mix it up. Lots of YouTube stuff on it along with websites. Sand Casting your own using the right kind of sand bought at your local investment casting or metal shop that does casting work.
You can build your own foundry from concrete/cement with Alumina powder added to make it a high heat version. Add denatured alcohol to help it flow better and a big vibrating sander or borrow the....er, nevermind on that one...attached to your form can help reduce the bubbles...

A good leather apron and welding gloves and protection is important when dealing with metal casting, along with clothes to help protect against splatters...no bare skin, and face shield too. Pair of thick cotton or good winter gloves beneath the welding gloves can help with insulating from heat but your tongs for gripping and handling your crucible, also possible to make your own....just have to ensure your tools won't deform and you can practice your moves using milk or water in the crucible to perfect your technique.

It is not going to be something you are going to do as a career or do to sell. You will need to buy some mold making wax to apply to your pattern part to acct for shrinkage. It comes in sheets and is very pliable and easy to use and it comes in various thicknesses. It is the bomb on mold making. No easy way to add the needed area to the original in a uniform way like the mold making wax.

754 · « **Reply #470 on:** March 16, 2018, 12:08:37 PM »

I think the trick is to machine them out of bilet the height of the bar mount, rough it out, anneal the part where the horn mounts, then bend it up. Then finish machine.
Might be time saving to tilt it to machine the horn part.

Don R · « **Reply #471 on:** March 16, 2018, 01:53:48 PM »

We have a foundry here that may be willing to pour some parts but aren't interested in making molds or dies. If I get one welded up to add some meat in the problem area I may check it out. No promises.

Don R · « **Reply #472 on:** March 16, 2018, 02:13:58 PM »

I just noticed I have soda in my ears. Off to the showers! Someday I'll build a booth until then I'll use the grey sky blasting booth. The soda keeps the grass out of the expansion joints

DickL · « **Reply #473 on:** March 16, 2018, 03:52:51 PM »

I have a 1970 750KO triple tree that is not broken and has not been welded. Its chromed, the chrome is peeling and you can have it for the price of US ,shipping.

Dickl
SOUTHWick, Mass.

Don R · « **Reply #474 on:** March 16, 2018, 04:17:30 PM »

I'd be proud to own that. I have a few parts waiting for a batch to go to the chrome stripper. There's a minimum so it doesn't pay to take less than 6-7 parts.

If you'd like to, let me know shipping to 61401 and I'll send funds however works for you. thanks.

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Author Topic: I've been K0'd! (Read 125911 times)