Author Topic: I've been K0'd! (Read 145569 times)

Don R · « **Reply #375 on:** November 19, 2016, 09:35:45 AM »

I was straightening fins, it was going well and then the worst one snapped off. It needed welding anyway. Now I can get the chipped fins welded also.

bill440cars · « **Reply #376 on:** November 19, 2016, 11:20:13 AM »

Don, I just got started on checking out your build. I kinda skimmed a few pages and realized real quick that I need to find the time and go through this, in it's entirety. Cool Build, From what I have already seen.

It'll take me while to catch up, but I'll get there.

Don R · « **Reply #377 on:** November 21, 2016, 07:48:49 AM »

Thanks Bill, I have a diecast then a sandcast and a sandcast engine in the thread. I actually sat down and read it all today. I noticed a few things I got wrong and posted edits where that happened. I've learned a lot since this began. And the first bike still isn't painted. lol.

Don R · « **Reply #378 on:** November 29, 2016, 02:13:46 PM »

We're trying to hash out which head is correct for a sandcast and which is a diecast in the tech forum. It may be the opposite of what I believe,d or it may be either.

Don R · « **Reply #379 on:** February 12, 2017, 08:42:02 PM »

I bought an early 1970 engine last fall and expect to purchase another one this week so I should have enough parts to build a numbers correct engine for the diecast 70 Both are sans the center front bolt hole so I should have enough parts for the sandcast engine and then the diecast engine for my 70 keeper bike.
It gets crazy deciding how far to restore a hot rodded bike, it really needs nothing except a paint job but a matching engine would be awesome too. Then a set of 300 pipes.

Don R · « **Reply #380 on:** February 16, 2017, 10:31:02 PM »

I scored an early, 750 replacement case engine, missing the points, advancer and clutch. No center bolt, blank number pad but recall punched???
The seller had a set of 71 gauges and a single cut, crusty and dented front fender. Total bill $210. Plus 1,300 miles worth of gas at 33 mpg (Honda) One night in a motel and a free day at The Air Force Museum at Dayton Oh. 46 hours round trip. 3 memorable meals including The Backwoods Café Pub and live bait Diner. I had the chicken wings not the live bait. (I'm pretty sure)

RAFster122s · « **Reply #381 on:** February 17, 2017, 01:17:55 AM »

Congrats on the score! AF Museum is pretty cool, eh? Keep telling yourself that last line until you at least pass that meal...

David

Don R · « **Reply #382 on:** February 17, 2017, 12:34:46 PM »

I got the head and cylinder off, it's standard bore, the cam is an R7 core and looks good, There are a few oversize bolts in and under the cam holder. I'd like to go back to all metric but will need some coaching on helicoil and timesert sizes. The stator is MIA and the dyno cover is cracked. Shifter cover has a shift pattern, and a broken top fin on the head but the good news is the head and cylinder are correct for early K0, it has the big flywheel. If it wasn't for the oversize bolts I'd say it was only ever apart for the case replacement. A PO liked allen bolts too, it had several and acorn head bolts on the dyno cover. The early cam cover was drilled for an extra vent and chromed. Now I need to find a junk head to cut a fin off of.

Don R · « **Reply #383 on:** February 18, 2017, 09:28:25 PM »

I cut fin off a junk head and sanded it to fit, the broken one had been previously repaired with bondo but it broke off too. I'll have it welded Monday.

Don R · « **Reply #384 on:** February 19, 2017, 06:33:10 PM »

Don R · « **Reply #385 on:** February 19, 2017, 06:34:24 PM »

Note the late model gasket, this is the one with the replacement case so it's been apart for sure.

Don R · « **Reply #386 on:** February 23, 2017, 09:36:22 PM »

OK, so I was looking through my gauges and realized I have a totaled out 71 (bashed front) and a totaled out 69 speedo (bashed rear), the difference being plastic (69/70) or metal (71)housings, and the dial's are a little different. Anyway my diecast has always had 71 gauges because it came that way and I'm too cheap to pay up on ebay and too slow to find them here.
Anyway long story shorter, I tried to put the plastic 69 top into the 71 back half. No dice, so I sawed the insert part off the plastic front and it appears I can crimp ring it to the 71 back. So with the replacement faces plastic housings you can buy, I can possibly make two look alike original gauges on the cheap. Or reasonable anyway.

Don R · « **Reply #387 on:** March 16, 2017, 09:02:08 PM »

The grandson of the sandcasts original owner asked me to sell it back to the family. Without naming a price, I asked if he has any idea of the value of a bike like that and gave him an example of what one reportedly not as good sold for. So far I haven't heard back, I do have a price for them. He is a good guy, a Firefighter Captain and I feel like the universe would be in order if they had it back, but I'm not willing to take a huge hit to do that either.
The chain of events that brought it to me was begun by his young dads desire to keep him off the seat.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #388 on:** March 18, 2017, 03:05:45 PM »

You really should not take a hit on the bike, and it might be better to keep him off the seat like the dad wanted... It depends upon his maturity and attitude on the bike, but sometimes, despite your efforts things happen and you have a crash or heaven forbid get killed on the bike. A bad crash can leave you in very bad shape, in a state worse that death I think. Sometimes it is more humane to let you die than go through the rest of your life severely maimed or brain damaged to the point your quality of life afterwards is very small.
My family does not like motorcycles, but for me it is good mental therapy and helps me with the depression I often have. A bad weather day on a bike is usually better than any day inside a car or inside a home or business.
My little sister had bought a Nighthawk 250 and had it for about a year before taking a spill in a corner with gravel. She did not practice good situation awareness and that or her training and mantra to know how to react to situations like that were not well enough to tilt the odds in her favor to making it safely through the corner. She sold that bike after that, not getting back on it and having some road rash.
It was a mid-life crisis type bike...

You stated earlier " I got the head and cylinder off, it's standard bore, the cam is an R7 core and looks good, There are a few oversize bolts in and under the cam holder. "

Is the R7 a type of cam or just the casting number for the mold it came out of... Often cast parts will have numbers that id the casting mold...in case there is a problem to trace back to that mold.

David

Don R · « **Reply #389 on:** March 20, 2017, 10:11:36 PM »

Correct, the R7 is a casting number not a grind. I have 3 early engines in the shop, I put the best parts on a sandcast motor, I was hoping to find a low R number but it's not a huge deal. I'm not sure that an R6 or R7 wouldn't be correct. And it's inside anyway.

I'm using the best parts of the other 2 for a diecast engine for either a 10,000 era serial number bike I don't own yet or my 14,100 bike.

Don R · « **Reply #390 on:** March 22, 2017, 09:48:06 PM »

I'll be getting the racecar trailer out of storage this week so I'll have the K0 hot rod back home again. The next time the checkbook will allow it I'm going to paint the K0 tins for it.

Don R · « **Reply #391 on:** March 31, 2017, 10:16:29 PM »

I found a sandcast looking mirror on ebay cheap enough I finally bought one. I'm not sure about the stem being welded on the top, but it has the two stampings on the back, acorn nut long swivel, nice mirror and it polished up pretty good. The 69 has new original looking Honda mirrors but they lack the trademark logo.

Don R · « **Reply #392 on:** April 05, 2017, 04:13:49 PM »

My first attempt at removing the clutch cover's 10th bolt hole for a 9 hole sandcast engine.

It got a little porosity on the outside and I rounded the corner too much but all in all it's not too bad.

Magpie · « **Reply #393 on:** April 05, 2017, 05:02:11 PM »

Nice job! Cliff.

Don R · « **Reply #394 on:** April 05, 2017, 09:50:39 PM »

Thanks Cliff. The next one welded up nicely on the corner, but the other PO induced damage didn't weld as well. They removed most of the screws with a zip wheel. The hard way.

Don R · « **Reply #395 on:** April 06, 2017, 09:20:38 AM »

Received negatively on the sandcast page, I guess I should have kept my mouth shut and tried to pass it off as real. Oh well.

MoMo · « **Reply #396 on:** April 06, 2017, 09:28:38 AM »

Looks good Don, ignore the snobs...Larry

Don R · « **Reply #397 on:** April 06, 2017, 09:48:49 AM »

Thanks Larry. I was kind of proud of it. I see it as just another reproduction part. There are guys making thin lip dyno covers from later ones and new repro no crimp line brake lines.
My new Yamiya red seat foam makes a crumbling seat look new, I fail to see the difference except I didn't pay someone big bucks for this one.

754 · « **Reply #398 on:** April 06, 2017, 10:18:40 AM »

I think they mainly dont want to water down the value of their bikes, and see fakes being passed off as real.
Also giving guys ideas may lead to more fakes.
Just stamp the inside K2 cover. Or when you weld insert short plug and weld only outside, then you can clearly see the mod with the cover off.

Don R · « **Reply #399 on:** April 06, 2017, 09:55:32 PM »

I could write a book about this but ;')

And I will stamp it inside or on the bottom.

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Author Topic: I've been K0'd! (Read 145569 times)