Topic: Any insight on clutch adjustment screw? Clutch won't dis-engage.

[j squared]

Admittedly, I didn't read the whole thread but here's a suggestion.  Make sure the lobe that is connected to the clutch arm and that moves the inside lever is under the inside lever.  With the clutch cover off, if you pull up on the clutch arm (the outside piece), the lobe will rotate too far and pop out from under the inner lever.  If its out, the inside lever won't actuate and the clutch wont disengage.

I will definitely check this when I pull the cover.  Im thinking something like this is my problem, since the arm has no tension under full lock on the adjustement screw.

[Gorms]

You would be able to tell I think if the arm that your clutch cable connects to does not have any resistance to it.

[j squared]

Oh I can tell alright   Its FUBAR.

[moham]

Oh I can tell alright   Its FUBAR.

no sweat, it's an easy fix...

[mystic_1]

Mystic, the parts fiche you have is correct but I don't know what the pictures are from, it's not a 74 550 clutch. I have included the 550 clutch adjustment page from the shop manual...

Interesting, I was having trouble reconciling what I was seeing in the fiche with the pics, they are from two different 550 Service Manuals.

One here:  http://www.sohc4.net/index.php?q=content/books-manuals-guides

The other here:  http://www.honda4fun.com/man_officina/man_officina.html

Thanks for the correction!

mystic_1

looks like it's from the 500. my manual has both 500/550, so I have to go to addendum, etc in the bck of the book for some of the 550 stuff.

You're probably right.   The manual on SOHC4 is in the 550 section, 500 has it's own section, and it's labeled as a 550 manual.  The one on honda4fun is indeed a combination 500/550 manual.  Noted for future reference.

mystic_1

Edit:  looking closer the SOHC4 manual does indeed cover both models although it's not immediately apparent from the index.
Sorryz.  -M

[Patrick]

Just out of curiosity, and I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question, but you did loosen the lock nut and screw in the adjuster bolt with the nut loose, right? You didn't just leave the lock nut frozen in place and tighten until the lock nut touched, right?

[Gorms]

Oh I can tell alright   Its FUBAR.

So is that your problem?  Its easy to put the lobe back under the inside lever.  Thread a wire underneath it and pull it up as you rotate the lobe back under it.

[j squared]

Not sure quite yet, going to open the case tomorrow and check it out. Will post back when i have a look inside. But yeah, im loosening the lock nut before adjusting.

[j squared]

Just saw this image and immediately noticed something



The actuator arm should have constant tension due to that coil spring.  Mine doesnt, so I'll check that first

[moham]

Just saw this image and immediately noticed something



The actuator arm should have constant tension due to that coil spring.  Mine doesnt, so I'll check that first

it won't if that cam has flipped up past the lever...

[j squared]

Yeah thats what Im saying.  Looking at that pic I can tell something is definitely wrong internally.  At least I know Im not 100% stupid/crazy

[Gorms]

If that lobe is on top of the arm, I am going to feel really good.  First time I have helped someone else!

[j squared]

Well, turns out Im 100% stupid/crazy   Pulled the cover and everything is fine. Put it back on to test it out and still had the same problem, and on a whim I reached through the dipstick hole and pulled the plates apart with my fingers.  Works fine now, wouldnt you know it! Just my luck.  At least I know a little more about how it works and how long it takes for the clutch to start sticking   And the adjustment screw fiasco, for the record its a '74 550k and you have to turn the screw counter-clockwise until you feel tension, not clockwise. Lesson learned.

Crappiest thing is the clutch cover screws were on tighter than a mofo and I had to use an extractor on two of them. So, some new hardware is in order, and Im going to look into hex head bolts to replace the rest if they arent too expensive.  Torque spec on them is like 6 lbs-ft so probably just insurance.  Thanks for the help everyone.

[moham]

glad to hear you got it figured out.  stainless cycle sells s/s bolt sets, but be careful with them and measure against stock bolts to make sure you don't strip anything in the case.