Topic: 750 Econo-Rod Motor

[754]

The idea here is 9the most) bang for the bux.

 Keep in mind this is the starter motor, it will eventually get the good stuff, probably be a lot bigger & will be turboed or blown.. this is more the appetizer..We got carbs, and we have 3, 78F motors.

Lets leave carbs and exhaust out for now..

To start off, good Clutch, APE or Barnett + springs.

Cam, either a 78F cam, or maybe APE.

836cc kit, correct for head used 10.5 ish comp.

Stock or F rods, maybe shotpeened and maybe stronger bolts.

Either an F or K head with triple cut seats, maybe mild cleanup.

Stronger valvesprings, crank micropolished and oil holes notched.

Lightened Alternator,

probably stick with stock studs on engine case.

 I think that will be reliable and wake it up a bit, and give good bang for the buck..
 What do you guys think?

[eurban]

Use HD studs.  Engine sealing will be better for it.  Very low cost compared to some of the other mods on your list.

[HondaMan]

Port job.
If 836cc, add a quench band to the head chambers.
Deshroud the valves in the chambers, if "F" or late "K" engines.

Forget the lightened alternator rotor: makes the engine buzzy. (My 2 cents...)

Use Honda's own clutch, with Barnett springs. It will grip better and last longer, and be more progressive at engagement.
 

[Don R]

Honda man, Please elaborate on the quench band. I have an 836 in my bike and a spare head I am planning on doing a port clean-up on.

[HondaMan]

Honda man, Please elaborate on the quench band. I have an 836 in my bike and a spare head I am planning on doing a port clean-up on.

Uh, oh...leaking another secret from my book...

Scribe the head from inside the cylinder bores, following the new +5mm bore. Then grind a tapered ring all around the chamber, from the edge of that new bore size, to the original chamber's profile. This makes a tapered ring around the edge of the original chamber, which will direct the swirl flow back toward the sparkplug when the piston reaches the top during compression. This increases the speed and turbulence of the mixture past the sparkplug, which then ignites a wider swath of the fuel during the spark. This translates to a more complete burn and a wider push on the piston crown, further down the stroke.

That makes more torque. 

[Don R]

I searched before I asked because I thought I remembered some conversation about that from before. The difference is now I have my 812 apart and am paying attention. Thanks, and I want a copy of the book anyway.