Topic: Starting first engine rebuild need some general guidence.

[elquenada]

Ive read over many old posts but I still have a few things I'd like to clear up about my procedure.  My 550 engine is out of the frame and the top end is already dissasembled.  I want to clean up the pistons, the valves, and the outside of the case.  I have no plans to paint it and I at this point the only things I plan on doing are to hone the cylinders and maybe get new rings. Then I will split the bottom case to replace my primary chain and the case itself which has some damage inside.  Of course I will be fitting all new gaskets and oil seals as well.  I plan on cleaning using a nylon scouring pad, and maybe some brass brushes as someone here suggested.

 ???My questions are:

1.  what, if anything, should I avoid spraying with simple green, gunk, brake cleaner & carb cleaner? are there any parts that shouldn't get sprayed when cleaning?  I dont want to ruin parts that I have no intention of removing.

2. What kind of solvent can I clean internal parts in?  My garage is very sandy and dusty & Im worried it may find its way into my gear box or other parts.  Therefore, before assembling I'd like to give the parts a soak or wash if possible.  Is there anything besides motor oil that I could/should soak the parts in to get them clean?

3.  Lastly, Is there anything In my plans that I didn't mention that seems like a huge oversight?

 
TIA
 

[NoXi]

first off do not use gunk except for while the engine is intact and you are about to pull it apart. same with brake cleaner.  both of these contain detergents and other crap that you dont need in your cases or pistons.  but on that note dont pull it apart with dirt or sand on it.... or is it carb cleaner you dont want to use? wow i forgot....

now for cleaning internal parts ive found that the best solution is a "soda blaster". if you have a small air compressor go but a 10$ pos suction fed sand blaster and hook it up to a box of baking soda. spray parts down with that (not bearings) and then soak them in vinegar to disolve the baking soda.  this will get anything clean and works especially good with carb bodies.

[elquenada]

ok in that case then what would you reccomend to clean the pistons up?  mine have lots of carbon deposits and Ive read in a lot of places that people use brake or carb cleaner to clean them.  Would simple green work?

also I dont own an compressor so i dont think soda washing is going to work for me.  maybe I can borrow or rent one though.

[NoXi]

ive never heard of simple green, what is it? yah use carb clean and get some of the grey scotchbrite pads to clean up the pistons and heads (reds probably too rough) and when you replace the rings it is extremely important that you clean out the ring grooves, if you dont they will never work correctly: for the top two rings break the old ones in half and dig out the deposits with them, but for the oil ring you will need a special tool.

[elquenada]

thanks for the tip.  I was just reading about the ring grooves in another post.   can I just use a rotary tool to grind them out or it that something I should leave to a machinist?

[paulages]

bag and label absolutely everything, and take pictures if you have a digital camera. no matter how well i catalog a teardown, upon assembly there is always a bolt or a dowel or something that mysteriously made its way out of its bag and got legs... and that's with a very meticulous organization regimen.

if the trans or other parts that i'm not servicing aren't gunky and the oil in the cases wasn't black and old, i'll often just keep them oiled and in ziplock bags for assembly. brake clean or simple green (undiluted) may attack rubber seals. i use solvent in a parts washer and leave the light oil residue on it as a rust-protector. otherwise, just make sure that however you wash things, you lubricate everything well upon re-assembly.

fit pistons to the cylinders dry though to prevent the possibility of glazing the cylinders before the hone has a chance to seat the rings.

[elquenada]

when you say "solvent" what exactly are you referring to?  I read this in a couple of places but im not sure what it means.  also, are you saying that you dont lubricate the pistons when you put them back in the cylinder?  I thought that you had to lubricate them heavily? 

[NoXi]

i think paulages is just talking about a parts washer thats got a mild detergent in it, instead of a harsh chemical. itll clean in up but wont damage anything.  im a full time mechanic and ive always oiled the hell outta the jugs before puting the pistons in so as to not scratch em... but thats just what ive been taught

[elquenada]

ok well I guess evrybody has their own reasons for evrything.

[paulages]

yes, i do mean to fit the rings and pistons dry. i know there are differing schools of thought on this, but as i understand it modern oils have compounds that  can prevent the rings from seating properly. bear in mind that the honing of the walls is basically a file. too much lubrication and the file doesn't work to wear the rings in properly. that's how i understand it anyway.

my solvent tank has a non-flammable solvent in it, but it's basically the same thing as any mineral-spirits type solvent. you aren't going to hurt metal parts with it.

[Ingrid]

What I found really useful was to get a large notepad.

tape down all the nutts, bolts and all other (small) stuff and write next to it what its from.

Then when starting to reassemble you have a very clear picture of the things (in backward order) you need to put back!


Oh yeah, and take pictures 
Grtz.
Ingrid