Topic: Kreemed it! But...

[ev0lve]

So I Kreemed my tank. Followed the instructions, I had previously run The Works through it which produced about 10 pinhole leaks - Tank Prep A for a half hour undiluted, then another three with water filled to the spout, rinse with MEK, drain and it looked pretty clean I thougt. Then immediately add the liner. Spent the next 3 hours turning it every which way, letting it air for 8 minutes etc etc. Finally drained off about a 1/4 inch of liner back into the 16oz bottle.

So here's my question. I expected to see a nice clean white interior. What I saw at that point was






so I dumped the rest back into the tank, sluiced it around and left the tank level to dry for the next 4 days.

For you guys that have used Kreem, are the pics above what you saw? Normal? Or should I become a Kreem hater?

Thanks!

[Simpson]

I've used it twice and it has worked fine. I'd give it a healthy coating and let it dry. If it leaks, then be a hater.

[DammitDan]

I Kreemed my CB650's tank and it turned out looking like dog#$%* but it got the job done.

I used POR-15 the next time and couldn't be happier.  It's all I'll use from now on (there's a reason why they sell a Kreem removal component in their kits!)

[ev0lve]

Yeah, I did it the best I could. Just expected to not see anything but a nice white liner. Period. Basically just looking for confirmation the highpoints in poking through there is normal Kreem action. And my arms are tired.

[Simpson]

I had the same type of areas but knock on wood its still holding...

[toycollector10]

Here's an alternative.

Red-Kote

http://kz400.com/Mark%20Shively/Red-Kote.doc

[ev0lve]

POR-15 is well recommended as well but Kreem had already been ordered. In the midst of it. Just looking to see I hadn't borked it. Thanks!

[greasy j]

the areas where you can see metal are not covered enough. you can always reactivate it, though and recoat by adding a little of the solvent if you didn't wait too long, maybe even if you do. it almost seems like they don't quite give you enough. but I got mine to cover completely after the second time and I've had it for about 2 yrs since. still always perfectly crystal clear inside. worked very well for me.

[ev0lve]

That's kind of what I was thinking but I was at it for 3 hours sloshing it around and turning it side for side. All of the 16oz bottle is in there at this point.

[greasy j]

I had to hold it at certain angles for long periods of time and it was a real pain in the butt, but I managed to cover it all 100%. I considered buying another bottle, though.

[joeb]

i used kreem in my gold wing tank and thru away the last step and have kept gas in my tank and have had no problems for ten years now . 

[ColinMc]

Just make sure you let that sucker FULLY cure before using it. If they say 3-5 days at 70 degrees I'd wait a couple weeks if you have big pools of it since you dumped the rest back in. Waiting longer for it to cure won't hurt...except you won't be able to ride lol.

[ev0lve]

The little bit that came out the petcock that I dumped back in was just enough to skim the bottom again. I'd read you could do three tanks with the bottle on some post somewhere - think that guy must have had a 3 1.5 gallon tanks  

Instructions say at least 24 hours. I'm going to wait til Wednesday. Hopefully that should be enough. Course it's pissing rain here for the next week so maybe longer won't hurt  

i used kreem in my gold wing tank and thru away the last step and have kept gas in my tank and have had no problems for ten years now .  

I'm guessing your's didn't do this once you got the rust out - first attempt at stopping the gas after running The Works through it.


Also, if you just need to de-rust the tank, I'd recommend The Works for sure. $2.99 and it did a great job pulling up the rust (Hydrochloric acid as opposed to Phosphoric acid in Tank Prep A IIRC).

Too great a job in fact as all I wanted to do in the beginning was stop the rust fouling my carbs. Probably should have just thrown an inline filter on it and kept on riding  

[greasy j]

you've already done this but for others a handy trick when removing the rust:

people use nuts and bolts or something like that with whatever kind of solvent rust remover stuff, to scrape the edges by shaking. I did that the 1st time I did this. thing is the nuts and bolts are a pain in the butt to get out. you have to shake the tank upside down for an hour to get them all.

one way to make it easier is to connnect everything together. I got a plant hanger made out of chain from the garden store. thinner is better. I connected the nuts and bolts along the chains with wire. so when it's done there are a bunch of chains connected to eachother with nuts hanging off of them. that way after shaking you just need to get ahold of part of it to pull it all out.

by the way do not use bb's. they are super hard to remove after.

[vames]

Don't know whether this has been addressed, but are you sure that Kreme or any other sealer is good on its own to be fixing a tank that has pinholes holes in it? Seems like a recipe for eventual leakage, and if you're going to paint it you'd probably want to paint solid metal all around.

[ev0lve]

Hmmm, I believe that's what they all do. Kreem is different than RedKote and POR-15 as I understand it since it's basically just a plastic bag adhered to the inside of your tank while the others actually make some kind of bond with the metal that's more or less permanent - if that makes sense. But they're all supposed to be appropriate to the job.

Kreem has a bad rep from what I can tell because your tank must be absolutely free of rust before applying it or it may start to peel away eventually and it dissolves in MEK. POR and RedKote are "supposed" to be easier to apply and basically permanent.

Best case is just to spend the bucks on a decent tank to begin with though - that's the lesson I'm taking from the whole thing anyway