Topic: Seriously how do you clean your holes? FINAL VERDICT

[Steve F]

I think you're very aware of the fact that CLR or COKE or TARNEX solutions are mildly acidic, and that would over time corrode the very wires that those connectors are connected / crimped to.  I would suggest neutralizing the acid by dipping or soaking the ends in baking soda solution after cleaning them.  Also, the wires tend to "wick" any solutions up into the wire under the insulation way past where you can see and/or clean.

Personally, if it were MY wire loom, I think the mechanical cleaning methods (brushes, files and emory cloth) would be safer in the long run vs. the chemical methods.
Just my $.04 worth.

Steve F

[Toxic]

Thanks, good point, never thought of that.

...anyway it's soaking in a baking soda solution now.

It was an interesting experiment but I'm going to practice my soldering skills this weekend.

I hate electrical gremlins so I'm willing to do just about anything to prevent them.

Which is why I bought:
-new coils
-new regulator
-new rectifier
-new PartsNmore harnes
-NOS left and right switch gear

[Head]

I use clr all the time with very good results, then I rinse and blow them dry then dielectric grease, also go to a sport shop where they sell gun cleaning kits and pick up 17 and 20 caliber brass brushes for barrel cleaning, cleans the female ends out very well. I use a spritzer bottle with clr non diluded or a stirofoam cup to dip the ends in and don't even take the wire harness off! Also I have to say that practice makes perfect after 250-300 times I am getting the hang of it
HEAD

[bistromath]

Hey! If you're going through the trouble to replace bullet connectors, DON'T SOLDER THEM TO THE WIRE! It creates a stress point that can eventually work-harden and fracture the stranded copper wire. It'll probably take years, but it will happen, especially if the wires get flexed regularly. Just go ahead and crimp them.

[Alan F.]

Four hours? the scrub brush and wd-40 followed by dielectric grease took a little over a half hour to do the whole bike, and it came out great.
You guys may be overthinking the issue at hand.
-Alan

[Haoleman]

Only one problem is any acid cleaners will cause other problems with corrosion down the road as the acid will get into the wire strands where it will cause more corrosion and possibly eat the wire up.  Best method is attach a new piece if stranded wire with a crimp connector and solder it with rosin core solder (no acid core) and crimp on a new end and solder it lightly if you feel the need and use a piece of shrink tubing or liquid electrical tape.

[Retro Rocket]

Only one problem is any acid cleaners will cause other problems with corrosion down the road as the acid will get into the wire strands where it will cause more corrosion and possibly eat the wire up.  Best method is attach a new piece if stranded wire with a crimp connector and solder it with rosin core solder (no acid core) and crimp on a new end and solder it lightly if you feel the need and use a piece of shrink tubing or liquid electrical tape.

It is quite easy to neutralise the acid, give them a good rinse with water and then use some dielectric grease.

Mick

[mick7504]

Vinegar will clean up too but looks like the CLR is good.

[mystic_1]

... and then you have the inimitable JohnK6:














Epic thread:  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=13258.0

mystic_1

[tlbranth]

How about vinegar?

[mystic_1]

Vinegar is also acidic.  Same issues.

Really though, I don't think you can beat mechanical action for cleaning these.  Personally I use a piece of scotch-brite wrapped around a bamboo shishkabob skewer.  When I know I'm going to do a lot of them I glue the scotchbrite to the skewers.

Once set up, cleaning each connector takes mere seconds.

mystic_1

[Toxic]

see I knew you guys would have the solution.

Some great ideas, thanks

Scotchbrite on a skewer, Classic.

[mystic_1]

Never underestimate the power of bamboo skewers in the garage! 

They're great for cleaning the crap out of deep corners and crevices.  They won't damage even the softest of castings.  Use the blunt end to break up larger concentrations of evil near the countersprocket.  Use them to hold small parts while painting them.  Wrap sandpaper or scotchbrite around a small bundle of them to clean or sand in between fins.  Lay two or three of them on a flat surface and you can put your head on it with no worries of scratches.  Use the long pointy end to poke open new containers of caulk, oil, and brake fluid.

And in a pinch, you can make shishkabobs with them, I suppose.

mystic_1

[greasy j]

Thanks, good point, never thought of that.

...anyway it's soaking in a baking soda solution now.

It was an interesting experiment but I'm going to practice my soldering skills this weekend.

I hate electrical gremlins so I'm willing to do just about anything to prevent them.

Which is why I bought:
-new coils
-new regulator
-new rectifier
-new PartsNmore harnes
-NOS left and right switch gear

why do you need to solder if you have a new harness? can't you just plug it all back in. does soldering create a better connection? what's the point?

my electrical is a mess and I was just planning on a new harness as well.

[w1sa]

Theoretically and often practically a mechanical joint introduces some resistance/reduction to the voltage flow. The older the joint, the more likely it is to create increased resistance to voltage flow, due to the deterioration of the electrical qualities of the mechanical joint.

Soldering wiring together can minimise these voltage losses and restore better conductivity or, reduce the chance of future losses of conductivity in newer wiring. It can also be a more strait forward process for installation.

Often stated disadvantages relate to wiring fatigue (soldered joint believed by most to cause fatigue in wire strands with vibration and the possible presence of corrosive residue from the solder process etc) and maintenance.

Usually, it's a choice between immediate/long term benefits and perceived future maintenence difficulties.

Properly crimped joints and the use of di-electric grease, will usually provide very good service. On the other hand if you have an older wire/joint, or a situation where once installed there is little likelihood of needing to separate that wiring, solder jointing the wires can be an excellent choice.

[Toxic]

At least as far as I am concerned the chemical process is not the way to go.

The wire that is totally black was the one that was submersed in CLR.
- 4 fours in CLR
-4 hours in a baking soda solution to neutralize the acid
-4 hours in clean water

The stripped wire is black more than 6 inches from the tip.
The green wire is a nice bright copper it is the same wire from a spare harness I had.

While it is not conclusive proof not to use CLR, I'm not going to take a chance.

It would apprear as mechanical cleaning methods as discribed here are the way to go.

Experiment over.

Sorry for the crappy pic

[IHWillys]

Hey! If you're going through the trouble to replace bullet connectors, DON'T SOLDER THEM TO THE WIRE! It creates a stress point that can eventually work-harden and fracture the stranded copper wire. It'll probably take years, but it will happen, especially if the wires get flexed regularly. Just go ahead and crimp them.

Yes, I've had this happen multiple times to wires for the taillight on my XS650(not OEM wiring harness).  The wire would break right at the edge of the solder. 

Ken

[Alan F.]

 These work pretty well too.

[333]

Those connectors use a specific crimp tool.  One that takes those tabs and curves them back into the wire.