Topic: SL350 Ignition problems...I think...

[marcuch]

I'm almost finished with a frame up restoration on my Honda SL350. It's the "dual-sport" version of the CB/CL350.  The bike was running when I tore it apart. I had to totally disassemble the engine to replace the shifter shaft and the kick starter shaft. I put new rings, gaskets and cam chain rollers.

The bike starts but will only idle.  If I twist the throttle at all she dies after a couple of back fires.  I've checked and re-checked the points following the CLYMER maintenance manual's procedures. I've checked all the wiring connections and they seem to be correct.  I've checked to make sure the carb bowls have gas in them...they do.  I have noticed that the neutral light is dim, but the battery charger tells me it's charged.  Once it starts the neutral light is bright.  I'm out of ideas.  I don't know what to check next.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

[tbpmusic]

 I've checked and re-checked the points following the CLYMER maintenance manual's procedures.

Then your timing is probably whacked - you do NOT set both points to a specified gap.

Go here and read the procedure - it applies to all Honda 180-degree twins of that era.

http://www.hondatwins.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=883

[jsaab2748]

This is a wild guess, and may not be your problem, but try leaving the charger hooked up to the battery (charging at no more than 2 amps) while the engine is running. If it helps, start looking for charging issues. The connections for the stator where they come out of the left side of the engine can become unplugged, causing a no charge condition. Had an sl 350 years ago that threw its chain and cut those wires. Engine wouldn't respond to any throttle at all without sputtering and dying out. It can act like that if the battery is trash too. This was a weird problem that took me a long time to sort out, and I only found it after a bike tech told me to look for charging/battery issues. Like I said, just a guess....Good luck with it.

[marcuch]

Bill, It looks like what I did to set the timing.  I'll try it again using your reference.  Thanks

[marcuch]

jsaab2748, That sounds exactly like what happens when I twist the throttle.  It's on a maintenance charger right now but I'll swap it out for a real charger and let you know what happens...Thanks

[Raul CB750K1]

Make sure your ignition advance weight move freely. Mine were stuck. Fortunately, I found it at installation time. A little WD40 and problem avoided!

[tbpmusic]

Just FYI, SL350 and CB360 share the same advancer unit.......

[rchrdms]

 I've checked and re-checked the points following the CLYMER maintenance manual's procedures.

Then your timing is probably whacked - you do NOT set both points to a specified gap.

Go here and read the procedure - it applies to all Honda 180-degree twins of that era.

http://www.hondatwins.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=883

Thanks for the link. I am now setting the timing on my CL 350 twin after a rebuild and I'm having a problem getting
the right points to the correct gap after adjusting the right-side timing.

Maybe I'll have to get a new set of points.

BTW. I made a timing light that works pretty well by attaching two alligator clip leads to a marker bulb I found at Napa.
The marker bulb has to have contacts to clip onto or it won't work.

[tbpmusic]

Thanks for the link. I am now setting the timing on my CL 350 twin after a rebuild and I'm having a problem getting
the right points to the correct gap after adjusting the right-side timing.

Maybe I'll have to get a new set of points.

BTW. I made a timing light that works pretty well by attaching two alligator clip leads to a marker bulb I found at Napa.
The marker bulb has to have contacts to clip onto or it won't work.

As long as the right side point ends up somewhere between 0.012" and 0.016" when you're done timing, it will be ok.
Again, you can't set the right side to any specific value, as that will change the timing. Only the left side is set to a specific gap......
I use a dwell meter myself to gap the left side, and then check the right side after timing to make sure the dwell is acceptable.
But dwell meters are pretty old-school, not many to be found anymore, much less someone who knows what to do with one.......

I just use an old speedo indicator light for static timing.....

[rchrdms]

I solved my problems with the right points by filing them a little with my point file. I noticed they were not
exactly square so I ground them down with the file. I was then able to set the timing and the gap was finally inline.
Thanks for the help. I don't know but this might help the original poster of this topic. Try and see that the points close
together evenly. If they don't, use the file to square them up. I also cleaned them with some solvent and dragged
a business card through them to clean up the mess.

[marcuch]

Thanks everyone!  All your help was mucho appreciated!  I thought I'd let everyone know what the fix was.  It was........... the battery.  I tested the battery and it was only putting out 8 to 9 volts.  I bought a new one and voila... She started and ran GREAT!... I circled back and set the timing again with a timing light (while running).  It was off a little (too advanced) but not by much.  The mechanical advanced worked also.  With the light you could see the advance.

Thanks again for everyone's help!!!