Topic: Wire Connectors

[kmenzel]

I am wiring in a new wire harness and had to change one of my control pods out, the new one did not have all the connectors in place.  I bought some off vintageconnections and my quick question is can you use a standard crimper on these and how do the insulation covers fit on.

[ElCheapo]

Never use "crimp" connectors. For short cuts I use a different style crimp connector that either releases glue-sealant when warmed after applying it or I use the ones that shrink down to the wire. Both of them are somewhat expensive. Usually about 0.60 ea.

When I am getting hardcore I use shrink tube and solder. Gives a superior connection that will not go green and is weather proof. Best part is that it does not wreck any part of the wire when doing it and it fits right back into the harness neatly, forever hidden.

[kmenzel]

I do have some of the more expensive wire connectors, i was just wondering what kind of tool works best to put them on.  I have a older crimping/wiire cutter tool that seems to have many settings, just wanted to make sure it woudl work

[jsaab2748]

vintageconnections sells the correct tool for that purpose, ( you knew that right?) Can't remember the price tho, maybe pricey.

[mrblasty]

I have noticed on my '73 750 the bullet connectors seem to two parts.  The very tip seems to be solder and the body of the connector seems to snug up to the tip.  I don't know if that is how they are put together.

Solder and shrink wrap is the way to go.

[jtb]

Oldtoyhunter,
Are you old, and hunt toys, or just hunt old toys?  I used a regular crimper that cost about 9.00 with the connectors I got from Vintage Connectors, and it worked just fine.  However, I use an expensive ratchet type when I make computer cables.

John

[ElCheapo]

Mine is a ratcheting deal that I got from GM when I went to thier school in San Antonio. I have no idea where to get one from.

[Dennis]

Mine is a ratcheting deal that I got from GM when I went to thier school in San Antonio. I have no idea where to get one from.

They're available and they are out there. But be prepared to PAY.

[Objectionableone]

Here is the link to Vintage Connectors, I bought a kit that included a ratcheting crimping tool several years ago and I am very pleased.


http://www.vintageconnections.com/Page1.htm

[Paul]

It seems like you don't have that many crimps to do. By the time you find a "Proper" (Expensive) one, the job 'll be done. Some of the old crimpers have two curved profiles on the head, but also have a type of U and n ?? behind the pivot. If the wire has a good grip, Lots of contact and won't fall  off, it's OK, Solder in place if concerned about future corrosion .Generally ...slip the insulation cover onto the wire before the crimp, rough edge away from the tip, Crimp and slide over.

[Jughead]

I bought a set of Crimpers from my Local Auto Parts.Chinese Made but Decent Quality.I forget the Name but can Look later today if You Guys are Interested.Price was Less than $10. If you Have a Bumper to Bumper around check out the Electrical Department.

[kmenzel]

Thanks for all the help.  It is true I know they have the crimper, but i really only have about 6 to do, so didnt feel like spending the money on the crimper and wanted to know if i could get away with my cheap one.  vintageconnections sells packets of 25 so i have a bunch of extras if anyone needs some let me know, i can provide some at a cheap cost. 

[cd811]

I did my whole wire harness with crimp connection then shrink tube over that.

[heffay]

sorry cheapo...

there is no need to go with anything more fancy dancy than crimp connectors... if you can't pull them apart then you know you've crimped them correctly and they will last just as long as any "so called superior" connection.

in fact... in my experience in the mech's shops... crimp connections were the only way to go and if i suggested otherwise... i was given the "what for?" 

[ElCheapo]

sorry cheapo...

there is no need to go with anything more fancy dancy than crimp connectors... if you can't pull them apart then you know you've crimped them correctly and they will last just as long as any "so called superior" connection.

in fact... in my experience in the mech's shops... crimp connections were the only way to go and if i suggested otherwise... i was given the "what for?" 

Heffay

You wont say that when you have a bunch go green on you at once. You have to admit that bike wiring is subject to water much more than automotive wiring, right? We used water/weather proof connectors for under hood connection repairs in the automotive world, so why would you not take the time to use shrink or glue type connnectors on bikes that are totally unprotected from the weather? The big problem with the connectors you are talking about is that you are putting together two dis-similar metals while allowing them to be subject to air and water. This situation always creates corrosion. In this corrosion with dis-similar metals it actually creates a small battery. I have hacked out these nasty connectors and actually got 1.5V from the connector after it was removed.

I hate the standard smash connectors. I toss a harness in the trash that has more than 5 if I can help it. While we are on the subject those 3M pinch connectors with the blades in a lockable barrel are COMPLETE UNADULTERATED TRASH (evil photo),  these eat the wire even when you are installing them. You lose about half the wire when you smash them shut. These are worthless in everyway. They are unacceptable for just about every use. And that is coming from my Bro-in law that works for 3M!

[heffay]

well... you didnt hear me say that i didnt shrink wrap them... of course i did and always do!

but... those 3m connectors are great.  you jus gotta know how to install them but yes they do more harm than good if not installed correctly.

btw... cheapo... electical wiring is not supposed to get wet!  work on that... k?   

[Dennis]

While we are on the subject those 3M pinch connectors with the blades in a lockable barrel are COMPLETE UNADULTERATED TRASH .... These are worthless in everyway. They are unacceptable for just about every use.

AGREE TOTALLY

They just absolutely suck!

[ElCheapo]

Wash your bike don't ya heffay? Point made. 

[heffay]

i have never washed a bike!  period.  that is one of the stupidest ideas i've heard yet. 

HONDA POLISH

[heffay]

but, i'm glad to know that when you guys are too stuck in your ways, sitting on the side of the road with your newly washed bike and wont dare put a "not as good connector" in your bike... i'll be flying right by because while they might suck in comparison... they do work.  and perhaps, i might not like the way the connection is made so when i get home while you are still on the side of the road i can put the proper connection in... but that might just be a waste of time in my opinion... cuz, well, dont fix it if it aint broke. 

[ElCheapo]

No need to be nasty, heffay. I just hate snotter bikes ( why I wash them from top to bottom) and just have never made excuses (shortcuts) for doing something right. Not that I am right all the time. I am sure GM would not have wasted hundreds of thousands of dollars teaching thier techs the finer points of electrical repair if the "any jane" connector was ok.

Heffay knows, and the hundreds of electrical engineers that GM is wasting thier money on know nothing.  Ok I'll go with that. 

I never make short cuts for doing things right. Fact is that a connection done with a glue, shrink type connector, or one soldered with shrink tube is as good as the wire. Anything less is just less. I have a whole can full of the any-jane connectors that have turned into batteries with the disimilar metals and corrosion. Fact is WATER IS NOT NEEDED to cause electrical corrsion. Air does this all on its own as oxygen makes this process happen.

Keep zipping down the road it will blow out the flames and dissipate the smoke. Makes a nice smoke screen when you blow by a speed trap. 

I see it EVERY summer guys on the side of the road because of "any-jane" connectors. I stop and help them no matter what they may be riding. Butane soldering irons rescue a lost riding day everytime. A piss poor connection makes for a high amperage connection (fact). This, when the amperage gets high enough will scorch the wire form end to end and destroy any wire it happens to be in contact with. With amperage always comes heat (fact). This heat will always be translated across the entire length of the wire and will glow red hot (another sad fact). Honda wiring was never meant to translate more than 15 amps sustained on any one wire of the harness. It is only 12 gauge wiring at the heaviest. These piss poor connectors can increase the amperage draw 10 amps and NEVER blow the fuse, all while doing the Chernobyl to you electrical system.

She is smiling because your ride has caught fire between your legs  , not because she think your cute. 

Fix it right the first time everytime.

These bikes have enough problems on thier own without having to go back and keep fixing stuff like that guy who just won't let go of that Pinto.

We'll wait to start the ride while you fix those green connectors 

[carsholduptraffic]

as a bloke working in the trade of electrical conections on motor vehicles, i simply must reply to this post..........
i start by saying that the 3M (scotchlocks) connectors have their place, but it is not on a motorcyle, or any high current use. they will work fine supplying a hands free kit for your phone, or a cb radio. but only in a dry, low vibration enviroment i.e. new car dashboard. for that purpose they are fine.
for a bike (or 4x4 or truck or tractor or boat), crimp and solder is the bulletproof metod.
i use fine pliers and sidecutters to fit a non-insulated terminal and heatshrink for insulation if required. the trick is getting the prongs to grip the wire snugly, and crimp amd solder the wire first then the insulation, whem it is cool. go easy on the solder, dont wick it up the wire, just a dab will do.
adhesive heatshrink works well, but silicone in heatshrink lasts longer.
if you aren't an auto electrian, stay away from bodge-ups, or just be aware that that nice rachet crimped terminal is gonna play up in a year or two. and use scotchlocks at your peril.
lanolin spray is proving to be excellent at waterproofing electrics of the crimp type.

[dusterdude]

cheapo,i must say i like scotchloks,i used them on my old but i cant say how good they are because the truck burnt to the ground soon after they were installed.

[kmenzel]

This seems to have a lot of interest, maybe a FAQ?  Anyway, i ended up using my cheap crimping tool and it seems to work pretty well, not as pretty as the stock ones.  I then laid down a little solder and shrink wrapped the wire.  I have to admit, looks pretty good. 

[BobbyR]

Nothing beats a proper solder joint for moving electrons between two wires.  The connectors are used to make for rapid manufacture and reasonable  connectivity. There are of course a place where a connector is useful for replacing parts quickly. i am planning a refresh on my bike this winter. I will soldering all joints as part of that process. The alternators on these bikes is marginal, but adequte. You cannot equate  modern automobile charging systems with thier large alternators and high ampere hour batteries  to these bikes. Losses in Auto wiring unless really gross, will go unnoticed. When I put a  Halogen headlight on my bike, I will need every volt, not only to support the light, but also keep the strain off the alternator and prolong it's life. I will take sample pre solder and post solder voltage readings and report the findings in another post. I am certain I will find a few lost volts.

Happy Holidays to all!