Author Topic: electrical output  (Read 2871 times)

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charley

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electrical output
« on: October 25, 2009, 07:38:22 AM »
what is the electrical output on a stock 1974 CB550F. I want to hook up my electric vest but do not want to cause any problems. Will the charging system handle it ?

Offline OldSchool_IsCool

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #1 on: October 25, 2009, 07:51:40 AM »
I don't have the technical data, but in the stock configuration, there is little budget for accessories.  If your coils are less then 5 ohms or your lamps were not replaces with stock equivalent bulbs or your wire connections are not shiny clean, you'll have even less budget.

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Offline TwoTired

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2009, 10:44:41 AM »
Book says 150 Watts at 5000 RPM.

By calculation, the alternator makes about 40-50 watts at engine idle.

The stock bike draws about 120 watts whenever the key switch and the headlight is on.
As mentioned above, low ohm coils and higher wattage bulbs will increase the load over stock.

Pity you didn't state what wattage your vest was rated at.

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Offline HondaMan

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #3 on: October 25, 2009, 01:51:50 PM »
Maybe you can unplug the front running lights, and use one of the #1034 bulbs as a taillight bulb: this will 'save' you about 21 watts for your vest...  :-\
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charley

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #4 on: October 25, 2009, 02:11:21 PM »
nothing on the vest to indicate wattage, I'll check the BMW site to see if they list any electrical data for the vest, I think I bought it in 2002 .All it has is the make,BMW , voltage and cleaning instructions.

Offline Bill Vaughan

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #5 on: October 25, 2009, 03:44:17 PM »
I use Gerbing heated clothes with my Harleys, but my Hondas just don't seem to put out enough juice.

The typical Gerbing vest draws about 77 watts (6.4 amps).
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Offline Gordon

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #6 on: October 25, 2009, 04:56:03 PM »
From what I've seen, most electric vests use around 45 Watts.  I'd be very surprised if your 550 has 45 Watts to spare.  You might want to consider some heated hand grips.  The ones I have on my 750 make even very sub-freezing temperatures tolerable, and they only draw 15 Watts.  You can bundle and layer up the rest of your body to keep it warm, but your gloves can only be so thick before they get in the way of using the controls. 

Offline seaweb11

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #7 on: December 25, 2009, 03:29:13 PM »
So..........I just got one of these heated vests for Xmas.

My K8 has a very clean running elect system, never had any battery issues.

The vest I received says 35 watts (average)  2.6 amps
Should I bother hooking it all up or will it be a waste of  time?

Offline TomC

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #8 on: December 25, 2009, 05:04:31 PM »
Hi Seaweb11
     You should have no trouble with your CB750K8. The CB750s have more electrical power. I run a 33 watt vest on my CB750F1 with no problems.
     TomC in Ohio
So..........I just got one of these heated vests for Xmas.

My K8 has a very clean running elect system, never had any battery issues.

The vest I received says 35 watts (average)  2.6 amps
Should I bother hooking it all up or will it be a waste of  time?
TomC in Ohio
76 CB750 F1 Daily Rider
76 CB550 stalled project
76 CB400F Injured Reserve

Offline dave500

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #9 on: December 25, 2009, 05:30:32 PM »
watts (say a 100 watt globe)divided by volts(use 13volts because the engine is running)equals the amperage you need ,in this case 100 divided by 13=7.69 amps,,tally up all the watts, like tail light brake light ,indicators,imagine everything is on and so long as the demand dosent out strip supply itll be ok ,,so long as you have a buffer of about 10% ,these are an old 70s brushless alternator and are lucky to charge at idle these days even with modern rec/regs.,they just handle a 65watt halogen head light,im sure someone has done a beefier stator winding somewhere.,watts is the output of the electrical device,amps is the current it draws.

Offline seaweb11

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #10 on: December 25, 2009, 06:08:50 PM »
So, If I sit in traffic at idle all warm and fuzzy inside.........my bike will eventualy die........... I can live with that ;D

thanks

Offline HondaMan

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #11 on: December 25, 2009, 06:15:55 PM »
So, If I sit in traffic at idle all warm and fuzzy inside.........my bike will eventualy die........... I can live with that ;D

thanks

I'll bet some dual LED front running lamps (and rears) with a solid-state flasher would help out, Seaweb.  ;)
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
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Offline Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #12 on: December 25, 2009, 10:19:35 PM »
Toasty!!

Headlight switch for that stuck in traffic situation. Wait a minute, the only traffic jam you have is at the ferry  ;) Keep your Battery Tender plugged in when in the Taj Garage and keep the revs above 3500 when on the road. Volt meter mounted?

750A field coil is wired beefier for an extra 80W and it will bolt right in. Less resistance = higher output = creates higher output from the stator coil. 750A stator coil is actually the same. If you actually pull the extra wattage you could probably fry your stock rectifier. You could always use a 750A rectifier too OR just get an Electrosport R/R unit which supposedly will handle a much higher load.

Email for more detail on the 750A stuff or I can call.
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Offline Deltarider

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #13 on: December 26, 2009, 12:02:09 AM »
Why not modify your vest into a two coil set-up? Your spine could act as a core. There's lots of thin copperwire in coils so it should be nice and warm. You could even bring blinkers, taillight and what not over for that matter. As bonus you'll have an extra anti-theft device. Could become the new fashion.
BTW, carmaker BMW knows how to generate power out of hot exhaust gasses. What are you waiting for? A genuine Four has no less than four pipes.
« Last Edit: December 26, 2009, 12:26:06 AM by Deltarider »
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Offline dave500

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #14 on: December 26, 2009, 05:28:42 AM »
hey delta ,,a good four has only one pipe.why bother with extra weight?and less performance?sorry ,,oops ,,a purist...,,may the four chrome ballast tanks be with you..

Offline Deltarider

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #15 on: December 26, 2009, 05:40:48 AM »
Yeah, nice and shiny 'ballast tanks'. Class and distinction. By the way, makes carburetor adjustments a piece of cake. Do I sense envy? Walk around one-pipers and have a look at them from the left side. A bit poor, isn't? I'd say, gentlemen don't travel that way.
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Offline TomC

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #16 on: December 26, 2009, 07:32:12 PM »
Hi Seeaweb11
     I have found that if I put enough layers over my vest so that I am warm at speed with the vest turned on. That I am hot sitting at a light with the vest turned on. I have a switch in the 12v line to the vest so I can switch off as I come to a red light and back on as I pull away. Usually I turn my vest off in town. But do not bother to turn the vest off for one light in the country.
     TomC in Ohio
So, If I sit in traffic at idle all warm and fuzzy inside.........my bike will eventualy die........... I can live with that ;D

thanks
TomC in Ohio
76 CB750 F1 Daily Rider
76 CB550 stalled project
76 CB400F Injured Reserve

Offline seaweb11

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Re: electrical output
« Reply #17 on: December 26, 2009, 08:58:15 PM »
seems an easy solution to a "maybe" problem ;D

I don't ride in the city.