Author Topic: Reviving Shenanigans CB550 Cafe: Phase longest build possible? (Read 48705 times)

Sporkfly · « **Reply #25 on:** November 16, 2009, 04:41:35 PM »

I do indeed love the stock 4-4, but as far as my exhaust goes it was a mess when I started on it and even after patching holes and replacing the baffles with homebrew it's still a mess. The supersport headers are far nicer cosmetically than a MAC 4-1 and a 4-1 header + muffler will cheaper than buying 4 silencers for my current 4-4. I just recently missed a chance on supersport headers on ebay too, so I just thought I would ask

.

I hope it comes together for you quickly, as it should, this time around.

Shenanigans · « **Reply #26 on:** November 17, 2009, 10:55:58 AM »

Yup, I agree. The only 4-1 header I would ever let be seen on my bike are the stock super sport. Well, besides a hand bent yosh!

You said you replaced the baffles? I assumed they were welded-pressed in when the pipe was made so it would be difficult to just gut them. Have any pictures? How hard was it? what exactly did you do to get them out?

I am so close to the "Put back together phase" that its starting to hurt. I want to be on the road already!

Sporkfly · « **Reply #27 on:** November 18, 2009, 07:53:22 AM »

Quote from: Shenanigans on November 17, 2009, 10:55:58 AM

Yup, I agree. The only 4-1 header I would ever let be seen on my bike are the stock super sport. Well, besides a hand bent yosh!

You said you replaced the baffles? I assumed they were welded-pressed in when the pipe was made so it would be difficult to just gut them. Have any pictures? How hard was it? what exactly did you do to get them out?

I am so close to the "Put back together phase" that its starting to hurt. I want to be on the road already!

I have a '77 model, so the exhaust is a bit more friendly to being gutted. I opened the ends up with a bimetal hole saw (toasted that drill in the process $:-\$ ) and took a 12" chisel to break the spot welds on the baffles. My exhausts were (are) in rough shape so I didn't feel bad doing this. It was either this or use the stock headers for 4-2 or 4-4 with aftermarket silencers attached. My option was cheaper, but I will eventually need to rework it due to how ratty it makes my bike look. There are a number of things I did on the cheap cosmetically that I will eventually redo.

Shenanigans · « **Reply #28 on:** December 07, 2009, 02:36:47 PM »

Frames done. Added the steering damper mount. 6 frame gussets and welded up the front down tubes.

Off to powder coat land and then it will finally be coming together!!

Shenanigans · « **Reply #29 on:** December 08, 2009, 12:25:47 PM »

I need some ideas on how to make the brake side work? Shifting side is easy but I am not sure how to make the brake side work. I will be bolting the rear-sets here, any ideas are appreciated...

Shenanigans · « **Reply #30 on:** December 08, 2009, 07:26:59 PM »

Idea #1. ~~Buy a set of Rassaks~~ cut off the stock break pedal arm, turn it up the run some linkage between the cut brake arm and the rear set. Would have to weld a little plate to the new brake pedal. Anyone is the PHX area have a TIG welder I could use?

noexit · « **Reply #31 on:** December 09, 2009, 10:36:34 AM »

Why don't you take the arm off the drum side and stick it back on 180° from where it's supposed to be (so it points up), then get a rod that will hook directly to the rear set?

Hmm. I guess that will only work if push actuates the brake in the stock location. I think my CL350 is pull...

Shenanigans · « **Reply #32 on:** December 12, 2009, 06:49:56 PM »

On second thought, I think I want to convert my rear wheel to disk so I am looking for a swing arm from a 75-76 750F so I can just use its rear disk set-up. Would make the rearsets easier to mount. I got a few leads but if anyone has one laying around...

Fabricator · « **Reply #33 on:** December 12, 2009, 07:07:55 PM »

I have a swingarm from an "750 F" I'll sell cheap... I am unsure of the year (guessing '74-76), and I already sold the caliper/pedal assy. The swingarm and mounts are still good though. PM me if interested.

Fabricator

Shenanigans · « **Reply #34 on:** December 15, 2009, 11:21:07 AM »

PM sent.

I got the holes drilled for the rear sets, They seem way too far back (being a tiny bit father back than the passerger pegs!) but after mocking up the bars and tank and seat, its right where I think it should be. At least according to what I have read. Being able to stand straight up on them without using your arms, centered under your butt, etc... Maybe a little high but I want to be able to use the stock pipes, Anyone make rearsets and use the stock pipes? Got any pictures?

Bike is finally at the powder coaters, should get it back Friday!

Shenanigans · « **Reply #35 on:** December 18, 2009, 03:23:59 PM »

Got it back from the powder coaters today!!

mpanther · « **Reply #36 on:** December 20, 2009, 11:33:06 AM »

Joined up just to follow your build.

Looking forward to the rest.

camelman · « **Reply #37 on:** December 20, 2009, 04:29:50 PM »

What color is that?

Shenanigans · « **Reply #38 on:** December 20, 2009, 04:47:04 PM »

I think its "T028-GR02 Steel Gray Pearlescent 80% Gloss" My receipt just said "GR02"

Shenanigans · « **Reply #39 on:** December 20, 2009, 04:57:41 PM »

Alright, Next step is to go buy a 50 pound bag glass bead after I get paid and then use my neighbors old sand blasting cabinet and blast and paint everything as she gets put back together. I also am going to try and paint my tank with a gun this time instead of rattle can'in it.

Still in the market for a 75-76 CB750F rear swingarm/caliper.

camelman · « **Reply #40 on:** December 20, 2009, 08:54:22 PM »

If you go with the spray can instead of the gun, then check out the spraymax 2-part clear. I used it on my last two tanks and it is impervious to gasoline!

Camelman

Shenanigans · « **Reply #41 on:** December 22, 2009, 12:38:04 PM »

Quote from: camelman on December 20, 2009, 08:54:22 PM

If you go with the spray can instead of the gun, then check out the spraymax 2-part clear. I used it on my last two tanks and it is impervious to gasoline!

Camelman

I will check it out, rattle can clear coat held out surprisingly well but after being soaked with gas then having a sleeping bag dragged over the soaked area it gave up.

I looked at my triple tree and realized that grinding it down by hand was not going to leave it looking acceptable. So I sent it to a friends friend and cashed in one of my favors and had him machine it down. After that it STILL did not look up to par, I think he used a rough bit? Anyways, I filed it down for a while then bead blasted it and it looks good now. I had the option to have the unused holes filled before it was machined but I figured it would be a good place to keep some spare bolts.

I love the look of raw aluminum. Would it hold it if I just left it raw like it is now?

horning88 · « **Reply #42 on:** December 22, 2009, 12:55:03 PM »

[/quote]

I will check it out, rattle can clear coat held out surprisingly well but after being soaked with gas then having a sleeping bag dragged over the soaked area it gave up.

I looked at my triple tree and realized that grinding it down by hand was not going to leave it looking acceptable. So I sent it to a friends friend and cashed in one of my favors and had him machine it down. After that it STILL did not look up to par, I think he used a rough bit? Anyways, I filed it down for a while then bead blasted it and it looks good now. I had the option to have the unused holes filled before it was machined but I figured it would be a good place to keep some spare bolts.

I love the look of raw aluminum. Would it hold it if I just left it raw like it is now?

[/quote]
It will if you clear it, otherwise you will get massive oxidization!

Shenanigans · « **Reply #43 on:** December 23, 2009, 01:48:13 PM »

Unwrapped my swing arm and noticed that they had taken the grease zerk out when they powdercoated it. Its no where to be found now. They also pressed out my swingarm bushings. Anyone have an extra set?

traveler · « **Reply #44 on:** December 23, 2009, 03:56:02 PM »

Looks great!

What are you doing for a tank/seat?

Any color choice yet?

~Joe

Shenanigans · « **Reply #45 on:** December 23, 2009, 08:00:42 PM »

Quote from: traveler on December 23, 2009, 03:56:02 PM

Looks great!

What are you doing for a tank/seat?

Any color choice yet?

~Joe

I think I am keeping the stock tank and the seat I have now. I was going to paint it the reverse of what it was, Black "Knee dents" and the rest of the tank bare metal. (Like in this photo mock up picture) But I am not so sure now after looking at it, I think the black and bare metal worked on the bike before since it had a black frame. Now the bare metal would look out of place. Maybe paint the knee dents a aluminum color similar to the triple tree?

traveler · « **Reply #46 on:** December 27, 2009, 09:11:01 AM »

VERY nice bike.

I too, will shortly start the process of getting the dual front disc situation figured.

Why buy a K0 speedo plate, when I have an extra factory plate that can be modded?

~Joe

Shenanigans · « **Reply #47 on:** December 31, 2009, 10:40:21 AM »

Quote from: traveler on December 27, 2009, 09:11:01 AM

VERY nice bike.

I too, will shortly start the process of getting the dual front disc situation figured.

Why buy a K0 speedo plate, when I have an extra factory plate that can be modded?

~Joe

It was one of those things I put off for a while but once I actually modded it, I realized how super easy it was. And free.

I got the motor in the frame and the frame up on a small stand. I have been putting off pressing on the bottom roller bearing, so maybe that will be done by the end of the day.

Any one know what bike this rear wheel is off?

camelman · « **Reply #48 on:** December 31, 2009, 06:46:02 PM »

I have no idea about that rear wheel, but I do have a suggestion about the front dual disk conversion. You can find calipers and rotors pretty cheaply on eBay for more modern bikes. The 550 front wheel will accept many of the rotors as direct bolt-ons. The caliper will likely require a bracket, but it won't be hard to fabricate (or expensive at a shop). You will end up with a much lighter brake, and likely a much better brake.

Camelman

traveler · « **Reply #49 on:** December 31, 2009, 09:47:56 PM »

With dual discs up front, the rear drum is more than adequate...at least what I have been reading around here. So, the disc is only worth it for the look.

Is the factory tank aluminum?

~Joe

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Author Topic: Reviving Shenanigans CB550 Cafe: Phase longest build possible? (Read 48705 times)

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