Topic: Reviving Shenanigans CB550 Cafe: Phase longest build possible?

[jph550]

Hey Shenanigans, Have you worked out any shimming on the second caliper to keep it parrallell with the rotor. If I recall correctly, this one of the most important parts. There is a thread on it here somewhere.
 
you'll probably want fresh pads once you sort that out anyhow, so you could always grind those down so they are even to get it set up then replace with new pads.
http://www.vintagebrake.com/pads.htm has good stuff, but keep the nylon washer from your originals, if you still have it. it can greatly reduce the squeal these brakes can produce.
good luck,
Jason

[Shenanigans]

Hey Shenanigans, Have you worked out any shimming on the second caliper to keep it parrallell with the rotor. If I recall correctly, this one of the most important parts. There is a thread on it here somewhere.
 
you'll probably want fresh pads once you sort that out anyhow, so you could always grind those down so they are even to get it set up then replace with new pads.
http://www.vintagebrake.com/pads.htm has good stuff, but keep the nylon washer from your originals, if you still have it. it can greatly reduce the squeal these brakes can produce.
good luck,
Jason

I filed down the back mount just a tiny bit and it seems to be nice and straight with the rotor as is. I know that side of the fork was "unfinished" from the factory, there must have been some variance from leg to leg then?

Do you have any more photos of your bikes brakes? (If the bike in the avatar is your I assume?)

[jph550]

yeah, that's mine. the headers no longer look as black as they did then.
i'll have to get some photos for you.
the PO did the work but I have taken it apart before and there are shims there that I try my best to keep in the same place. I know he had a machine shop so they could all be different. I'll have to measure next time i take it apart
Jason

[Kframe]

Nicely done, where to next

http://maps.google.com/?ie=UTF8&ll=31.203405,-46.757812&spn=177.110624,360&t=h&z=1

I think given his penchant for adventure and doing what sounds impossible, he should ride to France!   

I'm not kidding, you can get to a French territory, with a stamp in your passport and everything, in North America.
Well, there are two ferries involved, but still.
Look up St. Pierre and Miquelon, off Newfoundland.  
And when you pass through MN you've got a place to stay.
It would be one heckuva ride, likely more epic than your great ride last year.  
I heard about this destination from one of my Triumph Bonneville friends, and it's in our ten year plan, hopefully.
You're at a place in life you could just up and do it.



-K

Wow! That's pretty damn cool. I think that is somewhere I must make a stop at. Thanks! What would be the best time of year to ride up there? Another trip will happen, its glued to the back of my mind. To many people have offered their yards and homes to not go. I just have to break in this bike to see if the motor is decent and raise a little money. Maybe I could take my trail 90 across the country and try to raise money to take my 550 across a couple continents 

I haven't done the Newfoundland trip, but I did ride over Lake Superior, and let me tell you Canada can be cold anytime during the summer, but best bet probably July.  Not spring anymore, and not fall yet.  There's like two weeks of warmish up there.  And when they get rain it tends to just sit and fester for a week, not a quick 3 hour T-storm like blows through Phoenix.  So raingear is a really good idea. 

Another very cool trip that I hope to make this summer or next, is the Mississippi River from Itasca, MN to the Gulf of Mexico.
2600 miles one way, so better than 5 grand round trip.  Down the east bank and up the west, or vice versa. 
-K

[Elniniomuchachos]

Looking into powder coating and found the guy that did a bunch of stuff for my friends bike. 75 bucks for the frame  around 100 for the frame, triple tree and swing arm.

I'm trying to find a good deal on powder coating, and $100 seems good. Would it be possible to get the phone number for this guy?

[moham]

Another very cool trip that I hope to make this summer or next, is the Mississippi River from Itasca, MN to the Gulf of Mexico.
2600 miles one way, so better than 5 grand round trip.  Down the east bank and up the west, or vice versa. 
-K

I want to do that in a canoe. Maybe put the bike in the canoe for quick little sidetrips? Could be done...

[Shenanigans]

Looking into powder coating and found the guy that did a bunch of stuff for my friends bike. 75 bucks for the frame   around 100 for the frame, triple tree and swing arm.

I'm trying to find a good deal on powder coating, and $100 seems good. Would it be possible to get the phone number for this guy?

It depends on what you want coated. I ended up going to "Precision Powdercoat" They did my frame and swing arm for 175 and they are a big operation. I am happy with them.

Another very cool trip that I hope to make this summer or next, is the Mississippi River from Itasca, MN to the Gulf of Mexico.
2600 miles one way, so better than 5 grand round trip.  Down the east bank and up the west, or vice versa.  
-K

I want to do that in a canoe. Maybe put the bike in the canoe for quick little sidetrips? Could be done...

I see big GS's in canoes all the time in ADV rider forum so I think it could be done. It would suit my trail 90 better though.


I got my chain today also. Tomorrow I will make the trip to bobs to get a brake pad and the other bolts I am missing. Should be the final last parts!

[Shenanigans]

Got almost all the missing bolts. Only missing now is one of the points cover bolts and the grease zerk. Chain is on but it did not come with the clip for the master link? Its on the box but not IN the box. Her 3rd? maiden voyage should be soon!


Question one: Can I buy the grease zerk fitting at a local auto parts store? If so what pitch, size etc. is it? (or does anyone have an extra one)

Question two: My brake pad is worn at an angle and it was mentioned that I could file it down? What would be the best way to do this and get it nice and level?


I came across this old photo the other day. It was taken right after I bought it as it was being unloaded at my house, I couldn't move it by myself because the front brake was seized. I had never worked on anything mechanical or ridden any real street bike. Funny how far the bike has come and has taken me...

[jph550]

Here's those pictures of the shims on my dual disc conversion. first time putting images up here.



hope they help

as for the brake pad, if you have a vise you can clamp it in there and then take a block of wood with sand paper over it and sand away. a flat grinder would make it much easier.
of course i would only advise this so you can get the second rotor arm set up right. once you get it all squared away it will be worth the 30 dollars for a fresh set of pads for each side. i take it you have rebuilt the caliper with a new rubber ring and cleaned out all the goo build up they can get.
jason

[Shenanigans]

Yeah money is a bit tight, as long as the brake pad is in spec and has never been soaked in anything like oil, brake fluid etc... I think it will be fine until the next paycheck. I did indeed clean the insides and got new rubber rings. The brakes seem to work and retract great but since I am using a stock 550 master cylinder the lever travel has almost doubled. I am going to wait and see if I can stand it on the road before I try and track down a later F master or a goldwing one. What master cylinder are you running? Your photos did not seem to show up.

[jph550]

gotta figure out how to upload photos to this site I should know by now.

i'm using a modern Nissin Master cylinder. i think a 14mm but would have to check. helps lever travel a lot
stainless lines alone helped and then I added the modern MC and it improved more. I hate bleeding brakes.

when you sand your pads down start with the rough stuff then work up to finer 80-320? and try to get the texture to look like the edges of you pad. I'll level out once start using them.

[jph550]

test!

[Shenanigans]

Thanks for those photos, I wish I would have had my brake lines go directly into the caliper like yours.

I was going to leave the sprocket cover off the bike but it looks bad without it and somehow with it. I also love myself a die grinder, so...



















Taaa daaa

[coheed]

Thats effin awesome.  I might have to steal that idea. lol

[jph550]

That looks cool! How are you going to handle the starter motor or will you run without?

[Shenanigans]

I am not going to run a starter, I never used it. The harness I made has all the parts and a place for it. I would just have to throw in a solenoid and I would be good to go. I think it looks cool as it shows how narrow the transmission really is.

[Shenanigans]

I got my Tarozzi fork brace from fast from the past. As I suspected it would not fit but they said they would take it back without a restocking fee if not. I think a brace for the early style fork legs that terminate below the tire are impossible to find. I think I am just going to find some later style legs and throw them on there so I can use the brace.

However for anyone that wants a brace for the early style fork legs, the braces for the later style fork leg can be made to fit with minimal modification. You will lose your stock fender. You just need to make some spacers to raise the middle part of the brace and maybe shave off a tiny bit of the part that clamps onto the fork leg as its a tight fit near the tire.

I finally got my brakes sorted after shaving down my crooked brake pad and re-shimming the caliper mounts. My lever feels real spongy but there is a HUGE difference in braking. Cant wait to try a dual master cylinder.

I found a clip type master link and I rode it for the first time! Only to the end of the street but still. Only a few more loose ends to tie up! Still have to get the stuck bolts out of the alternator so I can put my finned cover on it, then its shake down time!

[HedNut]

Way Cool Sprocket cover mod!!! GOOD IDEA!!! Bold And DELIGHTFUL! woohoo!

[Frankenkit]

Bold And DELIGHTFUL! woohoo!

I love the wording you used... it could be anything! Sprocket cover, a great, crisp beer...  a sweet wine, a sassy woman... just pickin a little, Hednut.

[traveler]

I wonder if that fork brace would fit my 77 550K?

~Joe

[Shenanigans]

I think that the brace would work with a 77-78 bike. So much so I am trying to track down a set for my bike!

[traveler]

Shoot me a PM with price your asking....I was going to get one from Omar's....but it depends on what you have, and how much you want.

~Joe

[HedNut]

Ahaha... thanks Kit....cool crisp beer....mmmmmmmmmmm

And for your fork brace...I could test fit it for you on my dismantled K8! ....too bad shipping is so much...

[Shenanigans]

I feel like I want to throw this ******* bike into a river. I dont have the time or money for this. I am so unbelievably frustrated right now.

The first 2 days she was back on the road were fine. No problems.

The last couple of days she has developed these symptoms. First of all 1-4 cylinders seem to cut out after about 30 seconds of riding. Almost clockwork after shifting into second gear. It will backfire occasionally like the cylinders are trying to come back. She idles fine and if you come to a stop 1-4 will a lot of the time return. Last night I ran down to the corner store and 1-4 were completely dead even at idle. This morning I go out to start it and it fires up on all 4??? I checked the plug wires and all the wires going from the Dyna-S to the coils. No grounds or shorts. Is my Dyna crapping out? Its 1-4 so it has to be an ignition issues. Second of all this god damn motor is leaking out of everywhere possible...


Anyone have a spare 550 motor? I dont understand how all these build threads I read people just clean the motor and then it seems to be leak free. I just dont have the tools or money to do a "proper" rebuild.

UGH.

[Frankenkit]

1-4 crapping out really does sound like ignition to me... as for the leaks- bummer to hear about that.   I hope you get that stuff sorted.  Breathe in, breathe out, man.