Topic: How to remove stock handle bars? to install 7/8 Clubmans

[Aerobhoy]

As above just looking for some tips on how to/how not to Remove my stock handlebars from my 76 750k-6 I notice i'll have to make a few holes in the bars to accomodate the wires into the clubmans, at this point i've only removed the Throttle assy disconnected the throttle cables,on right side,removed 4 centre bolts securing bars,removed master cyl and clutch lever so i have to figure out best way to remove all electrical wires and re install, tips needed.
 I bought these on Egay so they are just a cheap version till i can possibly get a set of good clip ons.

Any advice from someone whos been there done that appreciated
pics would be kool too
Jimmy O

[Chris Elliott]

you just have to push the wires into the bars from the loose end then pull from the controls side... it might take a while but it should come out eventually.  As far as re-installing the wires in clubman handlebars, i have no idea.. maybe you need to use a hooked clothing hanger to get it thru the angled part.  As far as drilling the holes in the correct locations, i found that you can trace the holes using painters tape, then transfer the tape to the new bars, and drill/cut them accordingly.  That worked for me. Hopefully all that made some sense

[winnipeg550guy]

 I found it helpful before trying to pull the stock wires out too give the inside of the handlebars a good squirt of WD40.
 As for the wiring on my clubmans, I drilled out a small hole on the inner/underside just between the 45 degree angle and the curve, put heat shrink tubing on the wiring loom that will come into contact around the new hole. It was fairly easy to push the wires through by taping the ends together with electrical tape.

 

[Alan F.]

Must you run the wires thru the bars?  you could use a round file to alter the bottom half of each switch pod allowing the wires to run outside the bars.
Besides when you go to clip-ons you'd have to do this anyway.
-Alan

[d3buttz]

i agree with alan f.,
it is alot of work rerouting the wires and drilling out the new bars.  especially lining up the 1/8" hole for the locking pin( the angle of your levers will be different so just remove the pin- the clamping phillips screws hold tight enough).  i have drilled out the bottom of the switch housing on a few bikes and its way better/easier.i f you chose to go this route-just make sure that when you pull the wires out of the stock bars and reroute thru the new hole youve drilled that you do not put too much strain and movement on the points that the wires attach to the switches.  if you do the solder points will fail and electrical problems will keep appearing.  it is impossible to rebuild/fix/resolder the switches. believe me-ive tried. good luck
oh, and clean out the aluminum shavings really well from drilling the clamps to avoid other issues.

[Alan F.]

especially lining up the 1/8" hole for the locking pin( the angle of your levers will be different so just remove the pin- the clamping phillips screws hold tight enough

All you really need to do to get your levers back to the same angle is angle your master cylinder a little one way or the other.  Switch pod angle isn't as critical as long as you can reach everything comfortably enough.  I wouldn't pull the locator pins personally.

[Aerobhoy]

thanx for the great replies guy's, AND TO HONDAMAN FOR HIS DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS

jimmy O

[Alan F.]

thanx  TO HONDAMAN FOR HIS DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS

Huh?  Musta been a PM because I don't see that part here.  Don't post the PM here though, it's a forum rules violation.

Another save by Hondaman, I guess he's still wearing that red cape from his avitar pic.... 

[Slayer]

I am interested, HondaMan can you send me one or post please?

[MCRider]

especially lining up the 1/8" hole for the locking pin( the angle of your levers will be different so just remove the pin- the clamping phillips screws hold tight enough

All you really need to do to get your levers back to the same angle is angle your master cylinder a little one way or the other.  Switch pod angle isn't as critical as long as you can reach everything comfortably enough.  I wouldn't pull the locator pins personally.

If you don't pull the pins, and also don't drill a locating hole for them to go into, and tighten down the clamp screws the switch may break. FYI