Topic: quick question about APE trans undercut

[michrobi]

When I send APE my transmission to be undercut, do I send the whole counter-shaft and main-shaft assembled with their gears/bearings/circlips, etc.? If only specific gears need to be sent, what gears are they?

Thanks

[bwaller]

Better ask them the question. I've had two gearboxes done and have sent both shafts complete with shims, circlips in place. You can remove the bearings.

Normally first gear is not undercut.

[sangyo soichiro]

Normally first gear is not undercut.

What about 4th and 5th?  They engage differently than 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.  Just curious, because I didn't undercut my 4th or 5th.

[Big Jay]

Send the whole thing

[kos]

Send the whole thing

Jay, After APE is done with undercutting the dogs on these gears, do you send back for reheat treat? I have found once you have back cut the engagement dogs, you loose life in these gear sets as you have removed the hardness...and always need to redo periodically?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

KOS
M3 Racing USA

[Big Jay]

Depending on the depth of the case, some require re-heat treat.

[MRieck]

 I've seen hardweld repairs though they need heat treat too IMO. Price of heat teat is up....especially in CA with tax on everything. That's my understanding after talking to a cam company the other day.

[kos]

Depending on the depth of the case, some require re-heat treat.

Hardcase... that is.

Thanks for details.

KOS

[kos]

I've seen hardweld repairs though they need heat treat too IMO. Price of heat teat is up....especially in CA with tax on everything. That's my understanding after talking to a cam company the other day.

The only cams I ever race with are NOT billet, but hardweld as they end up have a surface 3-4 times harder and more durable than billet or even OEM cam surfaces. When visiting Jim Dour at Megacycle and getting the tour, I was amazed to see a room full of welders... gas welding the extra material onto the cam lobe areas, then off to cam grinding machine, heat treat and then all have to be straightened, as the welding warps them. That is why they cost so much. I have had times when a lack of oil to cam has caused some scoring and we  just took off the scoring with fine sand paper and reinstalled..never had a cam related problem after.
Having the same problem with a billet cam, and we were done if that happened.

Street bike, big bore stuff for street, billet works fine but for all out performance...go with hard weld. Also, we like to change lobe separation....from billet cam specs. And there are also over 20 cams, in the not for public viewing megacycle cam book for CB750 SOHC's.


KOS

[MRieck]

I've seen hardweld repairs though they need heat treat too IMO. Price of heat teat is up....especially in CA with tax on everything. That's my understanding after talking to a cam company the other day.

The only cams I ever race with are NOT billet, but hardweld as they end up have a surface 3-4 times harder and more durable than billet or even OEM cam surfaces. When visiting Jim Dour at Megacycle and getting the tour, I was amazed to see a room full of welders... gas welding the extra material onto the cam lobe areas, then off to cam grinding machine, heat treat and then all have to be straightened, as the welding warps them. That is why they cost so much. I have had times when a lack of oil to cam has caused some scoring and we  just took off the scoring with fine sand paper and reinstalled..never had a cam related problem after.
Having the same problem with a billet cam, and we were done if that happened.

Street bike, big bore stuff for street, billet works fine but for all out performance...go with hard weld. Also, we like to change lobe centers from billet cam specs.


KOS

Do you mean lobe separation Mark??

[kos]

I've seen hardweld repairs though they need heat treat too IMO. Price of heat teat is up....especially in CA with tax on everything. That's my understanding after talking to a cam company the other day.

The only cams I ever race with are NOT billet, but hardweld as they end up have a surface 3-4 times harder and more durable than billet or even OEM cam surfaces. When visiting Jim Dour at Megacycle and getting the tour, I was amazed to see a room full of welders... gas welding the extra material onto the cam lobe areas, then off to cam grinding machine, heat treat and then all have to be straightened, as the welding warps them. That is why they cost so much. I have had times when a lack of oil to cam has caused some scoring and we  just took off the scoring with fine sand paper and reinstalled..never had a cam related problem after.
Having the same problem with a billet cam, and we were done if that happened.

Street bike, big bore stuff for street, billet works fine but for all out performance...go with hard weld. Also, we like to change lobe centers from billet cam specs.


KOS

Do you mean lobe separation Mark??

Actually, lobe separation angle (LSA)


KOS