Topic: What did you do to your bike today ?

[PeWe]

Rode for awhile (72 degrees here) and got tired of hearing that 33 year old factory chain makin noise.  Now I'm sittin in the basement watching the Falcons kick a little a$$ and discovering that these dang thangs have endless (no master link) chains.  Do ya have to take the D#m swingarm off just to replace the chain??

 How bout a good boltcutter:)

Removing the swingarm is one way.

Most will "cut" the chain by grinding the heads off 2 pins and driving out a link. Most new chains are sold with a peen type master link which requires a special tool or skill to peen over the heads of the pins to make it "endless".

Don't lose hold of the chain after cutting. YOu will hook your new one to it and pull it thru the sprocket.

Many of us just buy a chain with a traditional clip type master link. I'm not afraid.

Back in my racing days we would safety wire the clip onto the masterlink for tech inspection. Never saw one I trusted was properly installed come off.

Agree about a chain with clip. I have never had a problem with clip. Close once since the clip was lost but it held together anyway.
O-ring chain with clip. I liked DID 50HDS back in the 80's

I invested in a really strong chain at last restore. Rivet link, solid link that need powerful riveting tool. I broke one cheap tool first. Ended up in purchase of a Whale riviting and cutting kit that handle solid and hollow links. With a hammer banging the link together so it will look as the other links.
Its not that easy to rivet it together since I did it too hard and a link that was too tight. Order new link and did it again.
I have 4 extra links in my garage.
I do not need to open chain for removing rear wheel or front sprocket or pulling the entire engine.

18-48 sprockets and 100 link 530 chain. CB750K6
Rivet chain with hollow link will be next. I have to since the riveting tool costed me some. Long time to next change
I'll use a spacer next time I rivet. This will avoid rivet too hard and binding link that will look like a Z when driving. NOT good!

Here spacer and hollow link easier to rivet, even with cheaper tools. Buy 2-3 extra master links if chain must be opened.
Photo found in another forum, not mine. I think that EK chain is a OK, but 530 for CB750
http://s982.photobucket.com/user/columandester/media/ChainSpacer1_zps5c22e70d.jpg.html

[ekpent]

 Well got to ride it once so far after resurrection    Got ready to take it out again recently and after a couple of pokes the kick start pedal on the mighty XR600R would not retract back up--poop.  You guessed it,broken tip of a spring that slots into the shaft. Ordered a new one yesterday and bought another new plastic piece on the assembly cuz that's probably going next after 30 years on duty. Fun stuff 

[evanphi]

Gave Rhonda's jugs (hehe) a clean, and spot-sprayed some flat black engine enamel. Next will be touchups on the pipes.

[Terry in Australia]

Rode it to work and back like I've been doing every day for the last 5 weeks or so. Tomorrow I'm riding it to Melbourne for the weekend. (800 mile round trip) Living the dream...........

[topperharley]

Rode it to work and back like I've been doing every day for the last 5 weeks or so. Tomorrow I'm riding it to Melbourne for the weekend. (800 mile round trip) Living the dream...........

What comes to weather you were born in the right place for motorcycling. Im a bit jellous.

[jonda500]

Made my 500 go much better by addressing her stiff throttle issue. First I changed both throttle cables but that made no difference at all. So I sprayed WD40 on all the carbs linkages and pivot points - at first it seemed it didn't help, but a little later I realised it must have slowly seeped in, and had in fact totally fixed my issue! And what an enormous difference it made, she literally feels faster!
Once warmed up she still paggs out at small throttle/low revs, like when taking off, even with the mixture screws 2 turns out, so I guess I'll try swapping the #40 pilots for #38's next.
John

[Retro Rocket]

Made my 500 go much better by addressing her stiff throttle issue. First I changed both throttle cables but that made no difference at all. So I sprayed WD40 on all the carbs linkages and pivot points - at first it seemed it didn't help, but a little later I realised it must have slowly seeped in, and had in fact totally fixed my issue! And what an enormous difference it made, she literally feels faster!
Once warmed up she still paggs out at small throttle/low revs, like when taking off, even with the mixture screws 2 turns out, so I guess I'll try swapping the #40 pilots for #38's next.
John

Others may disagree but you should use some sort of lubricant cleaner type spray like Penetrene, or carb cleaner and then some penetrene or ather thin lubricant, WD40 has a tendency to get a bit sticky after it dries, I was advised against using it on sticky automotive locks for this same reason... I use penetrine,  it works well.. 

[dhall57]

Rode it to work and back like I've been doing every day for the last 5 weeks or so. Tomorrow I'm riding it to Melbourne for the weekend. (800 mile round trip) Living the dream...........

A trip of that distance I know you want to be comfortable. So you got the Wang fueled up!

[robnola44]

fit the pipes, now to fit the seat

[Terry in Australia]

Rode it to work and back like I've been doing every day for the last 5 weeks or so. Tomorrow I'm riding it to Melbourne for the weekend. (800 mile round trip) Living the dream...........

What comes to weather you were born in the right place for motorcycling. Im a bit jellous.

Ha ha, don't be too jealous mate, I had 100 miles of rain, 200 miles of sunshine, and another 100(+) miles of freezing temps once the sun set. I'm still cold 3 hours after I arrived.

Rode it to work and back like I've been doing every day for the last 5 weeks or so. Tomorrow I'm riding it to Melbourne for the weekend. (800 mile round trip) Living the dream...........

A trip of that distance I know you want to be comfortable. So you got the Wang fueled up!

Ha ha, no Dwight, It's that big blue Yamaha I bought a month or so back. Cheers, Terry.

[evanphi]

New stuff from the stealership:



New front tire came in the other day too... Bridgestone BT45! Just waiting on the rim protectors, and then I can change it. Don't want to damage these nice Alu rims.

[ekpent]

You will like that large tire lever on the bottom, 2 would be twice as good.

[koendd]

finished it, rode it, loved it 

[flybox1]

koendd...if i ignore the (painful to me) brat seat, you did good 
How much did you drop it to get that stance?

[Stev-o]

koendd...if i ignore the (painful to me) brat seat, you did good 

But it LOOKS so good, Fly!

[flybox1]

koendd...if i ignore the (painful to me) brat seat, you did good 

But it LOOKS so good, Fly!

I'm not a hater! koennd is going to get many compliments.
Lots of attention to detail there, but my 45 year old body would hurt after an hour 

[WhyNot2]

finished it, rode it, loved it 

Got a build thread?

Pics of what you did?

Looks sharp.......like it.

[Stev-o]

finished it, rode it, loved it 

Got a build thread?

.

He does....

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,144379.0.html

[koendd]

koendd...if i ignore the (painful to me) brat seat, you did good 
How much did you drop it to get that stance?

thanks!

the seat is pretty good actually... on my 1st 750 I had one of those DCC brat seats, now that was a pain in the bééhind
and about a 2inch drop. Rear should be about stock height.

[koendd]

finished it, rode it, loved it 
]

Got a build thread?

Pics of what you did?

Looks sharp.......like it.

I do have a build thread but didn't update it that much really... not compared to my other build.
To much stuff going on in the mancave

Happy to answer question if you have some though....

[OllieCB]

Just finished the new handlebars (euro from Dime City), grips, and turn signals.

Many people know this but don't get freaked out about throttle tension UNTIL you adjust the cables (3mmm slack I believe) in their new location! I was beginning to think I never should have changed the bars... Until I adjusted the cables.





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[OneWheelDrive]

Final touches included stainless brake lines from HEL and a properly bled system.  Front brake can now perform as well as the motor!

[koendd]

looks like you need new fork tubes as well 

nice brakelines btw, can you buy them just like that with the bend on the caliper?

[OneWheelDrive]

looks like you need new fork tubes as well 

nice brakelines btw, can you them just like that with the bend on the caliper?

I know I know about the fork tubes.  Next task will be to remove the flash rust.  Living by the beach is a blessing and a curse!

Regarding removing the "hard line" at the front brake, it is a hotly debated topic, but I don't feel it will negatively impact braking performance or the integrity of the system.

[evanphi]

You will like that large tire lever on the bottom, 2 would be twice as good.

This is a setup I've seen on a lot of ADV bikes. Two small spoons and the big curved one.

I wish my rim protectors weren't backordered... I want to change that tire!