Topic: What did you do to your bike today ?

[Bankerdanny]

be care not to klip the thin vires..vho goes through the plastic....use a solder iron..and hold heat on..and press the top part off..at the same time..but try to test for ohm after re solder the  solderpoints..somtime its just a Cold soldering..and some oxyd..and a re heat vill give live..

I'm gonna have to work on that one a little bit Stringbean to decipher your code   

...he he..... make you think....

 

[PeWe]

...did the tach and speedo for the K2

They look really good!
New faces, right?
New needle or did you paint it?
Any good tool to crimp the rings together without any visible marks?

I have a set of K2 gauges, new faces, rings, o-rings waiting to be done.

[Stev-o]

be care not to klip the thin vires..vho goes through the plastic....use a solder iron..and hold heat on..and press the top part off..at the same time..but try to test for ohm after re solder the points..somtime its just a Cold soldering..and some oxyd..and a re heat vill give live..

I'm gonna have to work on that one a little bit Stringbean to decipher your code   

pas på ikke at klip de tynde vires .. hvem går gennem plastik .... brug et loddestang .. og hold varmen på..og tryk på den øverste del af .. på samme tid .. men prøv at teste for ohm efter re loddemåler point.som tiden er det bare en kold lodning .. og nogle oxyd .. og en re heat vill give live ..

Translated back to Danish, does that help, Eric?!

[strynboen]

be care not to klip the thin vires..vho goes through the plastic....use a solder iron..and hold heat on..and press the top part off..at the same time..but try to test for ohm after re solder the points..somtime its just a Cold soldering..and some oxyd..and a re heat vill give live..

I'm gonna have to work on that one a little bit Stringbean to decipher your code   

pas på ikke at klip de tynde vires .. hvem går gennem plastik .... brug et loddestang .. og hold varmen på..og tryk på den øverste del af .. på samme tid .. men prøv at teste for ohm efter re loddemåler point.som tiden er det bare en kold lodning .. og nogle oxyd .. og en re heat vill give live ..try to run it through s german translater..and see if itr klears somthing up...

Translated back to Danish, does that help, Eric?!

..hnmmm not qvite the same as i vas vriting in the first place...but the pointe is burning through..i think..try to run it through a german translater..think it vill klear it up..

[PeWe]

be care not to klip the thin vires..vho goes through the plastic....use a solder iron..and hold heat on..and press the top part off..at the same time..but try to test for ohm after re solder the points..somtime its just a Cold soldering..and some oxyd..and a re heat vill give live..

I'm gonna have to work on that one a little bit Stringbean to decipher your code   

pas på ikke at klip de tynde vires .. hvem går gennem plastik .... brug et loddestang .. og hold varmen på..og tryk på den øverste del af .. på samme tid .. men prøv at teste for ohm efter re loddemåler point.som tiden er det bare en kold lodning .. og nogle oxyd .. og en re heat vill give live ..try to run it through s german translater..and see if itr klears somthing up...

Translated back to Danish, does that help, Eric?!

..hnmmm not qvite the same as i vas vriting in the first place...but the pointe is burning through..i think..try to run it through a german translater..think it vill klear it up..

Any problem with Hindi?
Clear as sausage broth as we say were I come from..
पतली तारों को काटने के लिए सावधान रहें .. जो प्लास्टिक के माध्यम से चला जाता है .... एक मिलाप रॉड का उपयोग करें .. और गर्मी को पकड़ो .. और ऊपरी भाग दबाएं .. उसी समय .. लेकिन ओम के लिए परीक्षण करने की कोशिश करें फिर से मिलाप अंक। समय के रूप में यह सिर्फ एक ठंडा टांका लगाना है .. और कुछ ऑक्साइड .. और एक फिर से गर्मी जीना चाहता है .. इसे एस जर्मन अनुवादों के माध्यम से चलाने की कोशिश करो .. और देखें कि क्या इरर क्लेयर ऊपर आ गया है ...

[ekpent]

be care not to klip the thin vires..vho goes through the plastic....use a solder iron..and hold heat on..and press the top part off..at the same time..but try to test for ohm after re solder the points..somtime its just a Cold soldering..and some oxyd..and a re heat vill give live..

I'm gonna have to work on that one a little bit Stringbean to decipher your code   

pas på ikke at klip de tynde vires .. hvem går gennem plastik .... brug et loddestang .. og hold varmen på..og tryk på den øverste del af .. på samme tid .. men prøv at teste for ohm efter re loddemåler point.som tiden er det bare en kold lodning .. og nogle oxyd .. og en re heat vill give live ..try to run it through s german translater..and see if itr klears somthing up...

Translated back to Danish, does that help, Eric?!

..hnmmm not qvite the same as i vas vriting in the first place...but the pointe is burning through..i think..try to run it through a german translater..think it vill klear it up..

Any problem with Hindi?
Clear as sausage broth as we say were I come from..
पतली तारों को काटने के लिए सावधान रहें .. जो प्लास्टिक के माध्यम से चला जाता है .... एक मिलाप रॉड का उपयोग करें .. और गर्मी को पकड़ो .. और ऊपरी भाग दबाएं .. उसी समय .. लेकिन ओम के लिए परीक्षण करने की कोशिश करें फिर से मिलाप अंक। समय के रूप में यह सिर्फ एक ठंडा टांका लगाना है .. और कुछ ऑक्साइड .. और एक फिर से गर्मी जीना चाहता है .. इसे एस जर्मन अनुवादों के माध्यम से चलाने की कोशिश करो .. और देखें कि क्या इरर क्लेयर ऊपर आ गया है ...

  Thanks for the Hindi PeWe. Now I fully understand,Thanks !

[Stev-o]

be care not to klip the thin vires..vho goes through the plastic....use a solder iron..and hold heat on..and press the top part off..at the same time..but try to test for ohm after re solder the points..somtime its just a Cold soldering..and some oxyd..and a re heat vill give live..

I'm gonna have to work on that one a little bit Stringbean to decipher your code   

pas på ikke at klip de tynde vires .. hvem går gennem plastik .... brug et loddestang .. og hold varmen på..og tryk på den øverste del af .. på samme tid .. men prøv at teste for ohm efter re loddemåler point.som tiden er det bare en kold lodning .. og nogle oxyd .. og en re heat vill give live ..try to run it through s german translater..and see if itr klears somthing up...

Translated back to Danish, does that help, Eric?!

..hnmmm not qvite the same as i vas vriting in the first place...but the pointe is burning through..i think..try to run it through a german translater..think it vill klear it up..

Any problem with Hindi?
Clear as sausage broth as we say were I come from..
पतली तारों को काटने के लिए सावधान रहें .. जो प्लास्टिक के माध्यम से चला जाता है .... एक मिलाप रॉड का उपयोग करें .. और गर्मी को पकड़ो .. और ऊपरी भाग दबाएं .. उसी समय .. लेकिन ओम के लिए परीक्षण करने की कोशिश करें फिर से मिलाप अंक। समय के रूप में यह सिर्फ एक ठंडा टांका लगाना है .. और कुछ ऑक्साइड .. और एक फिर से गर्मी जीना चाहता है .. इसे एस जर्मन अनुवादों के माध्यम से चलाने की कोशिश करो .. और देखें कि क्या इरर क्लेयर ऊपर आ गया है ...

  Thanks for the Hindi PeWe. Now I fully understand,Thanks !

Ha!   Didnt know you knew Hindi, Eric!

[Bankerdanny]

Confirmed that the starter solenoid is fine, it's just the button assembly that needs repair. I connected the Yellow/red wire from the solenoid to the battery positive and the engine turned right over. I connected an aux tank to the carbs and with some carb cleaner was able to get it to pop and almost start, but couldn't quite get there. I ended up running the battery down a bit, so when I left I hooked it up to a tender to get topped off before I get back tomorrow night.

I also drained the oil and added a couple quarts of fresh. I have a new filter, but didn't replace it at this time since the header is in the way of easy removal.

I attached the top half of the airbox and got the bleeder screw on the front caliper to loosen without breaking.

The sheet metal screw in the rear caliper turns out to be screwed into a broken bleeder, so a project for this weekend will be to pull the caliper and drill out the bleeder and replace it.

[Bankerdanny]

Mine will turn over when you short across the solenoid. My switch does have the housing,  that's what's left of it in the 2nd picture.

Those 2 pictures look like my bike.............

I see now, I have the harness wrapped to the wrong frame part.

My carb tops hit the wires when opened to full throttle.

Can you post a pix of how the throttle cables are routed?

Thanks

Here you go

[Terry in Australia]

...did the tach and speedo for the K2

Beautiful work Georg, well done mate! I was gonna send my gauges to Marcel to restore for me, but now I think I'll give it a go myself! How did you remove/replace those pesky rings mate?

[dave500]

sat the 400 for sale.....9000 Danish kroner...made a selfie in the mirror...look a bit kapatain haddock

9000 kroner?whats that equal to?two empty beer bottles and a piece of string?

[kghost]

sat the 400 for sale.....9000 Danish kroner...made a selfie in the mirror...look a bit kapatain haddock

9000 kroner?whats that equal to?two empty beer bottles and a piece of string?

Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Greenland, and the Czech Republic all use Kroner or Crown...so I guess it depends...in Norway it 1 to .17 AUD...9000=1530 AUD

[dave500]

good price for a four hundred,ill keep my beer bottles then!

[PeWe]

sat the 400 for sale.....9000 Danish kroner...made a selfie in the mirror...look a bit kapatain haddock

9000 kroner?whats that equal to?two empty beer bottles and a piece of string?

Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Greenland, and the Czech Republic all use Kroner or Crown...so I guess it depends...in Norway it 1 to .17 AUD...9000=1530 AUD

I drain my economy with help of:  Yen (Yamiya), Pounds (DSS, eBay and some shops),  Euro (eBay Europe + car, oil and bike shops) and US dollars (eBay and all bike related guys).
Vacations mostly Euro. I have no SEK in my wallet at all, always card or transfers via telephone or internet bank.

[kghost]

sat the 400 for sale.....9000 Danish kroner...made a selfie in the mirror...look a bit kapatain haddock

9000 kroner?whats that equal to?two empty beer bottles and a piece of string?

Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Greenland, and the Czech Republic all use Kroner or Crown...so I guess it depends...in Norway it 1 to .17 AUD...9000=1530 AUD

I drain my economy with help of:  Yen (Yamiya), Pounds (DSS, eBay and some shops),  Euro (eBay Europe + car, oil and bike shops) and US dollars (eBay and all bike related guys).
Vacations mostly Euro. I have no SEK in my wallet at all, always card or transfers via telephone or internet bank.

Happens to us all....

[Yamahawk]

Mine will turn over when you short across the solenoid. My switch does have the housing,  that's what's left of it in the 2nd picture.

Those 2 pictures look like my bike.............

I see now, I have the harness wrapped to the wrong frame part.

My carb tops hit the wires when opened to full throttle.

Can you post a pix of how the throttle cables are routed?

Thanks

Here you go

Danny, better fix that push/return cable, it's coming out of the linkage mount. Happened to me several times.
Charlie

[WhyNot2]

Mine will turn over when you short across the solenoid. My switch does have the housing,  that's what's left of it in the 2nd picture.

Those 2 pictures look like my bike.............

I see now, I have the harness wrapped to the wrong frame part.

My carb tops hit the wires when opened to full throttle.

Can you post a pix of how the throttle cables are routed?

Thanks

Here you go

Thank man...........is that the factory routing or did you reroute them yourself?

Not sure I can get the top cable to go under the coil like that.

I'll give it a shot tonight when I get home, after these God forsaken hours they keep us here at work.

Mine just feel so stiff, doesn't snap back on it's own.

[Bankerdanny]

That's how they were routed when I got it. I don't know if that is how they came from the factory.

[Yamahawk]

That's how they were routed when I got it. I don't know if that is how they came from the factory.

Not sure if that is the way it came from the factory either, Danny. But, one thing I did notice is the angle of the push/return cable is contributing to it being pushed out of the mounting flange on the linkage. It would be better to route it for a straighter approach (higher angle) to the linkage. Do you see what I am referring to in your picture? Perhaps running it above the coil or in the same plane as the other cable, would fix that leverage problem...
Charlie

[BRG-BIRD]

Slowly reassembling the 550 as parts come in, just put in the airbox and air filter holder in last night.

[ekpent]

That's how they were routed when I got it. I don't know if that is how they came from the factory.

Both throttle cables go under the coils and if you look at the front round rubber tank mount on that side in the pic there is a plate/bracket under it next to the frame that the cables route through also.

[evanphi]

This is a capture from the shop manual. The return cable goes over the coils, apparently.

[Yamahawk]

This is a capture from the shop manual. The return cable goes over the coils, apparently.

+1 for going over the coil with the return cable.
Charlie

[ekpent]

 Thanks for posting that Evan and correcting me. Seemed to fit well but I assumed again    Looks like I have a little redo to do    Now what the heck is going to that bracket ?

[evanphi]

Thanks for posting that Evan and correcting me. I assumed again    Looks like I have a little redo to do    Now what the heck is going to that bracket ?

I have a re-do to do too! (say that five times fast!)

I have no idea what those lines are the go through the brackets. Maybe the coil connections?
Here's the whole pages: