Topic: What did you do to your bike today ?

[BomberMann650]

Waiting on the billet triple trees to arrive.

[Bankerdanny]

Waiting on the billet triple trees to arrive.

Shiny!

[FourUsTry]

Got bronze swingarm bushings pressed in with a 3/4" mega-rod after a bit of careful hand reaming the bores to get a reasonable press fit. All went well but there is a small play on the collar (measures out to ~0.0015") that I was hoping would be reduced by bushing press fit compression. Not sure if it is worth putting in a new collar but I'll take some measurements.

Also got the shock bushings in with a similar (but smaller) bolt+nut presser. Much easier than getting the old rusted/frozen ones out, especially after figuring out the hard way that the '78s (at least the CB550) has the bore tapered wider on the outside, unlike some of the earlier models.

Also did my (potentially silly) undercoating (3M spray) of the rear fender (also did the front) after rust removal. Maybe this will slow down rusting if it holds up to the assault of sand and stones. Purely experimental at this point.

New sprockets, chain, rear rim, install the new Ikons, and get it on the road soon (if the stars align).

[spotty]

Rode her 300 miles from Belgrave to Orbost, the long (and my god rough) way
Last night finally finishing installing new coils, leads and plugs (i was using the crimp connectors wrong first time around)
Retimed her while I was there and most of the day she was a rocket ship!
Now..., bogs and misfires while taking off and occasionally under heavy throttle  on the road. No lack of real power, maintains 75mph super easy.
Any ideas? I checked my plug leads were on good, seem ok. Im gonna pop the points cover off after my pub dinner and have a lookey loo.

Any othee things that can casue it? Dont tell me my new coils are deae

maybe a plug has pooped itself ? pull them all and see if any are breaking down or not sparking ? check that the plug caps are attached properly to the leads and coils ? maybe the goat tracks that vicroads refer to as highways have shaken something loose ?

[Mr.Mazza]

Rode her 300 miles from Belgrave to Orbost, the long (and my god rough) way
Last night finally finishing installing new coils, leads and plugs (i was using the crimp connectors wrong first time around)
Retimed her while I was there and most of the day she was a rocket ship!
Now..., bogs and misfires while taking off and occasionally under heavy throttle  on the road. No lack of real power, maintains 75mph super easy.
Any ideas? I checked my plug leads were on good, seem ok. Im gonna pop the points cover off after my pub dinner and have a lookey loo.

Any othee things that can casue it? Dont tell me my new coils are deae

maybe a plug has pooped itself ? pull them all and see if any are breaking down or not sparking ? check that the plug caps are attached properly to the leads and coils ? maybe the goat tracks that vicroads refer to as highways have shaken something loose ?

Invstigation found I set the timing a little off or its moved. 23 cyl are good 14 are a little retarded, only causes some backfiring below 1100RPM so still good to go. On another note I only used 8l of fuel to go 115 miles!

Ill retime/probably get a new timing plate and advanced thingo when i get home Sunday

[Terry in Australia]

Rode her 300 miles from Belgrave to Orbost, the long (and my god rough) way
Last night finally finishing installing new coils, leads and plugs (i was using the crimp connectors wrong first time around)
Retimed her while I was there and most of the day she was a rocket ship!
Now..., bogs and misfires while taking off and occasionally under heavy throttle  on the road. No lack of real power, maintains 75mph super easy.
Any ideas? I checked my plug leads were on good, seem ok. Im gonna pop the points cover off after my pub dinner and have a lookey loo.

Any othee things that can casue it? Dont tell me my new coils are deae

maybe a plug has pooped itself ? pull them all and see if any are breaking down or not sparking ? check that the plug caps are attached properly to the leads and coils ? maybe the goat tracks that vicroads refer to as highways have shaken something loose ?

Invstigation found I set the timing a little off or its moved. 23 cyl are good 14 are a little retarded, only causes some backfiring below 1100RPM so still good to go. On another note I only used 8l of fuel to go 115 miles!

Ill retime/probably get a new timing plate and advanced thingo when i get home Sunday

Put an electronic ignition in it Mazza, time it, screw the points cover back on and forget about it for the next 30 years or so.

[PeWe]

Got bronze swingarm bushings pressed in with a 3/4" mega-rod after a bit of careful hand reaming the bores to get a reasonable press fit. All went well but there is a small play on the collar (measures out to ~0.0015") that I was hoping would be reduced by bushing press fit compression. Not sure if it is worth putting in a new collar but I'll take some measurements.

Also got the shock bushings in with a similar (but smaller) bolt+nut presser. Much easier than getting the old rusted/frozen ones out, especially after figuring out the hard way that the '78s (at least the CB550) has the bore tapered wider on the outside, unlike some of the earlier models.

Also did my (potentially silly) undercoating (3M spray) of the rear fender (also did the front) after rust removal. Maybe this will slow down rusting if it holds up to the assault of sand and stones. Purely experimental at this point.

New sprockets, chain, rear rim, install the new Ikons, and get it on the road soon (if the stars align).

+5 Coat the fenders is a really good idea!
My K6 had its rear fender covered with thick underbody bitumen when I bought the bike many years ago. PO must have added that. It work fine when sand and gravel follow the wheel and hits the fender. Less noise.

My K2 builds NOS fenders got that too. easy to spray, and it look good.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg2041851.html#msg2041851

I'll spray inside of the cable tunnel on rear fender next time I remove rear wheel. I'll use the thinner rattle can spray with tube nossle to reach inside. This thinner penetrating rust protection also needed where the sheet metal is folded on the fenders side where attached to frame. My k6 has got minor rust there. Same with Honda stock lamp holders at front (ears). They need thin oil like protection inside.

[Terry in Australia]

First ride on my CB750 K2-75 right now! Work fine and no leaks yet!
Now a hamburger with fries on a cafe 25 km away from the garage  where this bike was born

Looks great Per, but wasn't it born in Japan?

[PeWe]

First ride on my CB750 K2-75 right now! Work fine and no leaks yet!
Now a hamburger with fries on a cafe 25 km away from the garage  where this bike was born

Looks great Per, but wasn't it born in Japan?

I'm sure you know how since you are a CB750 parts bike builder too!
This bike ID is the frame with its registration, steering stem, tank (not yet mounted), battery holder with the electric stuff on it.

Everything else is found elsewhere. A lot of NOS parts.
All electrical cable new aftermarket switches inlcuded.

Engine started with 2 dirty cases that might been on a Swedish K2 bike. Number match K2
Crank with rods from my K6 (that got an APE/carillo combo)
K6 transmission, K2 clutch and some covers from ebay.de (sayonara.cycles) (probably US scrap yard import)
Primary hub from USA, low mile 75 F, old style as K2. New cush rubbers inside done in Germany (http://www.fourever-classic-parts.de/)
Clutch plates from cruzinimage. They sat in mY K6 but did not cope 1000cc tourque. The 7:th disc replaced by a CycleX plate.
Cam  complete w holders, rockers from a K7, eBay USA.
Shifter mechanism, valve, alternator covers from a friend nearby which also sold the K1 head, cyl with new cruzinimage 61mm pistons.
Carbs with airbox from my K6.
New honda hex bolts to engine, fenders, Honda turn signals from Yamiya
Fork lower from my friend's stock. Probably from an old Swedish bike. Fork pipes from CycleX that sat on my K6 but got a minor scratch by the clip not completely seated over seal. Sanded smooth and hopefully not a leaker. Gators covers it.
NOS fenders from DSS
NOS speedo from Venezuela, NOS tacho from USA (They needed new cabling with lampholders that were dried rotten, new from Yamiya already on bike)
Headlight with rim set, seat, gators  all replicas from DSS
Ears set, handlebar from nipponbikeparts Germany
Restored complete wheels from Andy Cepok  (AC motorradteile eBay.de). New rims, spokes, bearings and polished hubs
Shocks also from  Andy Cepok
Restored swingarm quickly ordered and shipped from Yamiya when I found that the bike's stock swingarm had a dent not possible to get the bearing in.
Then a mix of small new parts from Yamiya, DSS and eBay Germany.
4-4 pipes are no numbers HM300 replicas from Yamiya,

My first intention was to use all leftover parts I had and build a Frankenbike, GS1000-78 fork with dual brakes, 1980 alu wheel, Henry Abe 16" rear wheel. I have the roller bearings for that fork - CB750 frame from allballs that fixed that combo
I changed my mind and went stock CB750 and I finally gave the sh!t of the costs I tried to control 
 I have seen several good looking stock bikes on this forum. I need to feel how a stock bike is.

I need to add all parts in Excel while I still remember.

I have soon a restored really good looking K6 head on the shelf to use if needed. That design is a better match for a 1975 K2 Euro bike.
Fresh 849 kit is also a future alternative. My old 836 cyl got cheap 849 pistons. Cylinder bored for them a few weeks ago.
An old K1-K2 head I found ported 6 years ago is also refurbished with my old not much used valves. 34mm F2 in valves,  and improved ports. Real porn!

My old not much used RC 836 pistons need a new cylinder...... I'm gather parts for future events..

You are even worse than me, Terry! I have only 2 bikes (CB750K2, K6) and parts to an extra CB750 engine. 2.5 bikes

I would like to a have a stock CBX1000 -79, red, candy I think
 plus a kawasaki Z1-900 73-76 or 1000 77-78 with some mods. One stock and one with 120-130 whp would be fine  A complete engine from Mike Rieck would be the dream!!

[Ace Blackwell]

I like the fender coating.  When I did mine, I went with chrome paint. Looked fair but the paint never really drys /hardens. When I do it again I’m going to go back with the black undercoat type paint too.
Nice job.

[FourUsTry]

I like the fender coating.  When I did mine, I went with chrome paint. Looked fair but the paint never really drys /hardens. When I do it again I’m going to go back with the black undercoat type paint too.
Nice job.

Thanks (PeWe also) for assuring me that my undercoating idea wasn't nuts. Of course this will just encourage me to try other, wackier ideas  .

I did a light coat of Rustoleum Rust Reformer under the 3M undercoating spray. They seem to adhere well enough (so far). My tip for getting a clean edge is don't try to tape it, just wait 15-30 min after spraying and take a rag or paper towel with a bit of paint/lacquer thinner and wipe the edge firmly & carefully with thumb pressure. You'll get a better line with no tape edge.

I like PeWe's idea on spraying inside the wire channel but I'm concerned painting the wires could make the insulator more brittle. Other ideas (I warned you!) silicone spray, vacuum grease on a string with knots, ... Or just leave it be and let the next restorer in 40 more years deal with rust in there.

PeWe, congrats on getting that beautiful K2 on the road!

[chicagobob]

Rode it for the first time after restoration and a swap to '72 carbs.  Great fun.
[

[BomberMann650]

This mod will do 85 in 2nd gear.

[Ace Blackwell]

Beautiful bike Bob.

[Don R]

 You're not foolin' me bombermann, that's no cb350F.  Really though, whatever it is it looks cool.

[BomberMann650]

Rootin Tootin Norton Cowmando

[Terry in Australia]

Another hot Saturday, so needed some motorcycle therapy. My VFR750 hasn't been out for a few weeks, so I drove over to the self storage place to collect it. Sadly the battery was a bit flat(ish), but being a hot day, it fired up right away with just a little bump start. (left my jump start pack at home)

I did a quick 100 miles, in fact too quick at times, the sound of that little 750 V4 at high RPM is better than just about any other motorcycle note I've ever heard, and the higher the RPM, the better it sounds. All in all, another great days ride!

Saturday VFR750 ride 5 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

Saturday VFR750 ride 3 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

[BomberMann650]

Got the cb550 prepped for storage.  Cleaned, chain lubed, carbs and tank drained, battery disconnected. 

Then dumped the gas in the triple and blasted off to my friends farm.

[Scott]

Fitted a chain Oiler to see how they go.

Don’t know what type of chain I should use.

[Scott]

Photo hurts my head that way b

[Scott]

Last go

[Scott]

Fairdinkum last go

[PeWe]

I like the fender coating.  When I did mine, I went with chrome paint. Looked fair but the paint never really drys /hardens. When I do it again I’m going to go back with the black undercoat type paint too.
Nice job.

Thanks (PeWe also) for assuring me that my undercoating idea wasn't nuts. Of course this will just encourage me to try other, wackier ideas  .

I did a light coat of Rustoleum Rust Reformer under the 3M undercoating spray. They seem to adhere well enough (so far). My tip for getting a clean edge is don't try to tape it, just wait 15-30 min after spraying and take a rag or paper towel with a bit of paint/lacquer thinner and wipe the edge firmly & carefully with thumb pressure. You'll get a better line with no tape edge.

I like PeWe's idea on spraying inside the wire channel but I'm concerned painting the wires could make the insulator more brittle. Other ideas (I warned you!) silicone spray, vacuum grease on a string with knots, ... Or just leave it be and let the next restorer in 40 more years deal with rust in there.

PeWe, congrats on getting that beautiful K2 on the road!

No problem using the car rust protective products on wires, harness insulation and rubber parts. Cars have rubber hoses, wires and other things were these products are applied. Fuel, brake hoses, wires, rubber seals and rubber bushings.

I have spray cans to be used, the thinner, more penetrating and the under body thicker spray. My K6 had the real thick product that was smeared on with a brush looking like tar or asphalt.
I did not use any rust protective paint before, fenders are new with good chrome. Only cleaned with acetone just before
I had a little overspray I cleaned with a cloth with acetone.

The very thin spray should be sprayed inside frame where the vent holes are to protect it further. I have not done that.

Thanks about your comment about the K2 build. I'm very happy about it too, especially when riding it. It need some road training before vehicle inspection. It will get more today
 Bike's registration say it should have been done before August 1992

[Terry in Australia]

Fitted a chain Oiler to see how they go.

Don’t know what type of chain I should use.

Hey Scott, you know your K1 came with an automatic chain oiler, yeah? Cheers, Terry.

[Scott]

Aw #$%*

Yeah I remember now you mention it. I remember screwing it all the way in after I put an O ring on it from memory so it wouldn’t “leak”

I actually bought the Oiler for a chook chaser I bought but I don’t have the bike running yet.