Topic: What did you do to your bike today ?

[M 750K6]

Went for a ride then gave it a 44,000 mile service. Nearly 3,000 miles since rebuild. All looking really good. Just need to work out why plug no.2 is stubbornly lean.

[BenelliSEI]

I cleaned up some K7/K8/F2 header heat defusers on the wire wheel. Did a final brushing with a brass brush.
They look lots better.
But now, I'm gonna have to do some cleaning up of the shelf behind the bench grinder......lots of wires and dust all over everything.....everywhere.
Note to self.....hook up a vacuum next time around!!!

Those turned out well! I wish there as a way to keep them looking like that!

[newday777]

I cleaned up some K7/K8/F2 header heat defusers on the wire wheel. Did a final brushing with a brass brush.
They look lots better.
But now, I'm gonna have to do some cleaning up of the shelf behind the bench grinder......lots of wires and dust all over everything.....everywhere.
Note to self.....hook up a vacuum next time around!!!

Those turned out well! I wish there as a way to keep them looking like that!

I was thinking maybe spraying high heat engine clear but that may not be high enough temp rated???

[grcamna2]

I cleaned up some K7/K8/F2 header heat defusers on the wire wheel. Did a final brushing with a brass brush.
They look lots better.
But now, I'm gonna have to do some cleaning up of the shelf behind the bench grinder......lots of wires and dust all over everything.....everywhere.
Note to self.....hook up a vacuum next time around!!!

Those turned out well! I wish there as a way to keep them looking like that!

I was thinking maybe spraying high heat engine clear but that may not be high enough temp rated???

I sprayed the Duplicolor Engine enamel clear on one of those clamps,didn't like how it turned dark later.
I coated a set of them with a brush with some quality 'bright chrome' silver paint(not engine heat paint)in a can and so far it looks bright and not discolored. 

[Sw1ssdude]

I didnt do anything to my bike directly, but i built an engine cradle for it. I am about to find out where the loud rattling noise is coming from...

[MauiK3]

Nice work, almost a bike frame.

[newday777]

Nice work, almost a bike frame.

That's what my plan is with one of my rusted frames. I liked this when I saw it posted.

[MisterKnife]

Finally did my fork swap and redid all the electronics. (on my todo for over a year) happy with the result.

[BenelliSEI]

After the three day ride my son and I did a month ago, the K3 has been sitting in the shop. Filthy and neglected. I needed a break today from the Sandcast, so did it all. Repaired the broken start button (actually replaced it because it fell out and the pin and spring disappeared too). When I opened the switch, discovered the “push” cable was broken and the “pull” cable only had a few strands left”. Replaced both.

Next up was the broken rear brake light switch. Fell apart in my hands, good used one installed. Then discovered a really weird thing. The drive chain is much too tight…. How does that happen? Chain shrink?? Brushed it clean(sort of), lubed and adjust. Oil and filter next time. It desperately needs a wash, but will wait for cooler weather. Bike is ready for the next adventure. We’re planning to do the “Pick Axe Loop” again in the Fall and hopefully something else between now and then….

[newday777]

After the three day ride my son and I did a month ago, the K3 has been sitting in the shop. Filthy and neglected.

The drive chain is much too tight…. How does that happen? Chain shrink?? Brushed it clean(sort of), lubed and adjust.

Dirt in the chain will make it tight and stiff. Did you ride on dirt roads during those 3 days?
Did you clean the chain with a grunge brush and diesel fuel? Messy job but it brings life back to the chain. I had to do it a week ago to my K5.

[BenelliSEI]

After the three day ride my son and I did a month ago, the K3 has been sitting in the shop. Filthy and neglected.

The drive chain is much too tight…. How does that happen? Chain shrink?? Brushed it clean(sort of), lubed and adjust.

Dirt in the chain will make it tight and stiff. Did you ride on dirt roads during those 3 days?
Did you clean the chain with a grunge brush and diesel fuel? Messy job but it brings life back to the chain. I had to do it a week ago to my K5.

I did. It was really snug, even on the side stand! Will check it again after next ride.

[MauiK3]

What is the other bike in the photo?

[M 750K6]

130 miles today on my 750k6. But, only just managed to get home. It stalled on me a few times and occasionally missing. The ignition and neutral tell tale lights and starter were without power (probably all lights / everything, but not convenient to check, as i was in traffic!), with the ignition switched on. It came back to life each time when I jiggled the key. Faulty ignition switch.

I had previously re-soldered one of the connections in the back, so I thought this was my problem. However, on checking, it seems perfectly fine. However, the problem was repeatable in my garage, by jiggling the key in the switch, while holding everything else completely still. The key action felt a little crunchy. I couldn't see a way to get it open, to look inside. Maybe 3 plastic lugs hold the case to the baseplate. Didn't fancy breaking it by over-forcing it. So I liberally squirted electrical cleaner down into the key slot and into the tiny hole in the side of the plastic switch case and held it lock face down, to allow it to drip dry, then repeated. What came out was a bit dirty, but not awful. I also cleaned up the multi pin plug, while it was undone.

The key action is now direct and smooth, with a more positive mechanical click and I cannot repeat the problem in my garage. Seems too easy a fix though! Guess I'll have to run it locally a few times to see if that's fixed it and to build up confidence.

[newday777]

130 miles today on my 750k6. But, only just managed to get home. It stalled on me a few times and occasionally missing. The ignition and neutral tell tale lights and starter were without power (probably all lights / everything, but not convenient to check, as i was in traffic!), with the ignition switched on. It came back to life each time when I jiggled the key. Faulty ignition switch.

I had previously re-soldered one of the connections in the back, so I thought this was my problem. However, on checking, it seems perfectly fine. However, the problem was repeatable in my garage, by jiggling the key in the switch, while holding everything else completely still. The key action felt a little crunchy. I couldn't see a way to get it open, to look inside. Maybe 3 plastic lugs hold the case to the baseplate. Didn't fancy breaking it by over-forcing it. So I liberally squirted electrical cleaner down into the key slot and into the tiny hole in the side of the plastic switch case and held it lock face down, to allow it to drip dry, then repeated. What came out was a bit dirty, but not awful. I also cleaned up the multi pin plug, while it was undone.

The key action is now direct and smooth, with a more positive mechanical click and I cannot repeat the problem in my garage. Seems too easy a fix though! Guess I'll have to run it locally a few times to see if that's fixed it and to build up confidence.

There are springs and ball bearings in the lock sets that get gummed up and need cleaning as you did. I've brought back a couple like that. Should be fine.

[BenelliSEI]

130 miles today on my 750k6. But, only just managed to get home. It stalled on me a few times and occasionally missing. The ignition and neutral tell tale lights and starter were without power (probably all lights / everything, but not convenient to check, as i was in traffic!), with the ignition switched on. It came back to life each time when I jiggled the key. Faulty ignition switch.

I had previously re-soldered one of the connections in the back, so I thought this was my problem. However, on checking, it seems perfectly fine. However, the problem was repeatable in my garage, by jiggling the key in the switch, while holding everything else completely still. The key action felt a little crunchy. I couldn't see a way to get it open, to look inside. Maybe 3 plastic lugs hold the case to the baseplate. Didn't fancy breaking it by over-forcing it. So I liberally squirted electrical cleaner down into the key slot and into the tiny hole in the side of the plastic switch case and held it lock face down, to allow it to drip dry, then repeated. What came out was a bit dirty, but not awful. I also cleaned up the multi pin plug, while it was undone.

The key action is now direct and smooth, with a more positive mechanical click and I cannot repeat the problem in my garage. Seems too easy a fix though! Guess I'll have to run it locally a few times to see if that's fixed it and to build up confidence.

I’ve “repaired” a few, only to have them fail when miles from home……

[ts354]

Finally did my fork swap and redid all the electronics. (on my todo for over a year) happy with the result.

Can you share some info on the the swap, or do you have a build thread going?

[M 750K6]

130 miles today on my 750k6. But, only just managed to get home. It stalled on me a few times and occasionally missing. The ignition and neutral tell tale lights and starter were without power (probably all lights / everything, but not convenient to check, as i was in traffic!), with the ignition switched on. It came back to life each time when I jiggled the key. Faulty ignition switch.

I had previously re-soldered one of the connections in the back, so I thought this was my problem. However, on checking, it seems perfectly fine. However, the problem was repeatable in my garage, by jiggling the key in the switch, while holding everything else completely still. The key action felt a little crunchy. I couldn't see a way to get it open, to look inside. Maybe 3 plastic lugs hold the case to the baseplate. Didn't fancy breaking it by over-forcing it. So I liberally squirted electrical cleaner down into the key slot and into the tiny hole in the side of the plastic switch case and held it lock face down, to allow it to drip dry, then repeated. What came out was a bit dirty, but not awful. I also cleaned up the multi pin plug, while it was undone.

The key action is now direct and smooth, with a more positive mechanical click and I cannot repeat the problem in my garage. Seems too easy a fix though! Guess I'll have to run it locally a few times to see if that's fixed it and to build up confidence.

I’ve “repaired” a few, only to have them fail when miles from home……

Was fine yesterday. Started blinking again today. I've ordered a replacement from David Silver. They only have repros, not oem, so not sure what I'm in for. But less than £20 delivered.

[Terry in Australia]

Well I'm hoping that we're having an early Spring. Speaking of Spring, being such a beautiful day today, Spotty and I drove over to collect my poor abandoned K0 from the storage place and pull the engine out to fix some oil leaks, and install the Yamiya pipes that I've still got in the unopened box that I've been meaning to install all year. As expected, the bike was covered in dust, and the tyres were pretty low on air, as I haven't ridden it since January(?) last year.

The reason I haven't been riding it is that it started running on two cylinders, and swapping out the electronic ignition made no difference. Anyway, I decided that with Spotty's help, I could get it fixed and running again properly, and install those new pipes. The first problem though, was when I backed my "ute" up to the trailer, only to discover that someone had stolen my towbar! Fcukers! I assume it was the same arseholes who smashed the back window of the wife's Hyundai a few weeks ago and either tried to steal it, or just steal things out of it. I've bought a security camera that I'm going to mount on the front of my house to monitor the sidewalk, so if I hear a noise I can see who's lurking outside, and shoot them with my air rifle. I won't kill them of course, I'll just dissuade them from ever touching my vehicles again..... Anyway, Spotty had a spare, and after drilling new mounting holes for it, we hitched the trailer and drove over to the storage unit to collect the poor old K0.

K0 first ride in 2 years. 11 August 2024. by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

We took it back to Spotty's place, and I couldn't help but turn the ignition on, to see how the 4 year old Motobatt battery was doing, as it hasn't been near a charger in those 4 years, and after almost two years of sitting, I expected to be flat. Surprisingly the neutral light looked pretty bright and the horn beeped loudly (well, as loud as any CB750 horn) so I opened the gas tank, hoping it wasn't full of rust, but as it was almost full, there was no rust evident. Bonus. I couldn't help myself, I pulled on the choke and gave it 3 kicks, and it fired up, on all 4 cylinders! Amazing!

I let it warm up and then hit the engine with some degreaser and then hit that with the pressure washer, and the engine looked spotless! We stopped for lunch and then I had to pump the tyres up and go for a lap around the block. The bike ran great despite the old fuel in the tank, and while the master cylinder needs rebuilding, the front brake still worked, sort of. I asked Spotty if he'd like to take it for a ride, and he was keen, so I took a short video of his return, his yelling was something to do with the fact that he hasn't ridden a CB750 in awhile, and actually expected the front brake to work, like they do on more modern bikes.

By this stage we (well, me really) decided that it was too late to start pulling the engine out, so we'll do that next weekend, see if there's a loose wire to the coils, replace the cam cover gasket and alternator cover gasket after using the "sandpaper on glass" method of flattening the two cover's gasket surfaces a tad, shove the engine back in, install the new pipes, give it an oil and filter change, and hopefully, go for a decent ride. It'll be nice to have it back as a regular rider, especially on sunny days like today.

K0 first ride in 2 years. 11 August 2024. 2 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

[newday777]

That's great that you got the K0 out for a bit Terry before you address the issues with it. Nice to see you had warm enough for Tshirt weather. I hope the fixes and pipes install goes quickly so you get some advantage of the coming spring riding on it.
Andy S rode up to ride with me yesterday and he had a short delay on the way up from his place in Boston, also a loose connection of a coil power wire a short distance from his house, he also hadn't ridden the K2(w/K4 dressings) in a while because of the intermittent poor running and was glad it was a simple crimp the connectors tighter fix on the roadside. He got a couple hundred miles ride in after the fix without any more issue the rest of the day.

[Magpie]

It is a SOHC but a 1964 Twin,a CA95. Got it running quite nicely. Getting closer to be able to ride it.
[https://youtu.be/lQcL5L-nazM]

[RAFster122s]

Cliff, she's gorgeous and you have her really well tuned and running lovely. One of nicest CA95 Benly Touring 150s I have seen in a long time. It should command a good price whenever you part ways with it...

[Cruiser]

I took her on a long 450km ride through the Belgian/French country side. What a machine

[RAFster122s]

Cruiser, nice

[Cruiser]

Cruiser, nice

Thx, was a really nice ride, loved the French countryside, hated going back into Belgium (bad roads).

Time to renew the rear shocks though... Other then that, loved every minute of it.

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks guys, well Spotty and I got stuck into removing the K0 engine to fix the oil leaks from the K0's cam cover. Of course, being a fcuking CB750 you have to remove the whole fcuking engine to remove the cam cover, unlike my Kawasaki Z1-B, that only requires the fuel tank to be removed to remove the cam cover, fcuk it.

Oh well, I'm sure that Honda had their best engineers design the worlds (arguably) first "Superbike", so not only did I need to remove the tank, but also the airbox, exhaust, exhaust stubs, oil tank, lines, ignition, carbs, alternator harness, kick starter, shift lever, footbrake pedal, 5 engine mounting bolts, earth leads, starter motor lead, brake lever, coils, plug wires, chain, etc etc. Gotta love Honda engineering....... Not.

Anyhoo, after a couple of hours of fcuking around removing all that sh1t, We were able to remove the engine. Just to fix a leaking cam cover.

K0 Saturday 17 Aug 2024 1 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

We then removed the cam cover, and using the "sandpaper on glass" method (after using a black felt marker on the gasket surface)
we rubbed the cam cover as flat as we could, and then, just to be sure, used some Permatex "form a gasket" sealant on the cam cover, wiped the gasket clean (the only oil we could see was where the oil was weeping from the cam cover) and screwed the cam cover back down using the JIS screwdrivers so as not to ruin the Yamiya replica screws.

K0 Saturday 17 Aug 2024 by Terry Prendergast, on Flickr

Tomorrow it's going back into the frame, after we do the "sandpaper on glass" method on the alternator cover (the other obvious leak) and once again smear a little gasket sealer, and with luck, won't have any more leaks. We'll also install the new Yamiya HM300 pipes, and drop the needles one notch.

When I bought the carbs for $1000 USD (plus shipping to Oz) from "Carburetor Keith" it was running really lean so I raised the needles, before I realised that this "expert" hadn't installed the top seals above the slides. So much for fcuking "experts", what a moron. Anyway I found some seals in a rebuild kit and installed them, but never dropped the needles, so it's always run a bit rich. Before we reinstall the carbs tomorrow, I'll drop the needles a notch, because it'll be way too rich with the more restrictive OEM replica pipes. All going well, it'll be up and running with it's shiny new pipes tomorrow.